XPost from Kitchens: Bill or Mongo, Glass Tile Install

15 years ago

It was recommended on the kitchen forum that I post my question over here.

DH is finishing up our DIY kitchen remodel and next up is the backsplash. We have 8mm 1x2" clear glass subway tile, it has a white backing. What type of mastic and grout should be used, can someone recommend products to use? Labels of ready mix mastic at big box stores say not to use for glass tile. DH read that acrylic based should be used, is it true? Also same goes for grout, what type? Is it critical to use caulk at the base between the tile and granite or grout is OK? Any advice for finishing the edges? Thanks for your help!

Sort by:Oldest

Comments (6)

bill_vincent
15 years ago
Labels of ready mix mastic at big box stores say not to use for glass tile.

True.

DH read that acrylic based should be used, is it true?

Acrylic, latex, or polymer modified, however it's worded on the bag. It's all same same. No matter how it reads, it should be a portland cement based powdered thinset.

Also same goes for grout, what type?

Same thing-- it should be a modified sanded grout.

Is it critical to use caulk at the base between the tile and granite or grout is OK?

Caulking ONLY.

Any advice for finishing the edges?

You can just finish with the factory edge of the glass, or you can use one of the metal finish bullnose strips available from Schluter. You could also trim it out in wood finished to match your cabinets, if you like. Lots of options. :-)
momto3girls
Original Author
15 years ago
Thanks for the advice. I thought grout should be un-sanded? Would 3/16" v-trowel apply enough thinset?
Related Discussions
Bill V, Mongo, anyone unique glass tile opportunity
Q
Comments (13)
Transparent glass floors are usually large glass tiles (laminated and tempered) that are set into a metal grid. A silicon cushioning strip is set on the grid to cushion the glass. Depending on the system, the tiles are surrounded with a silicon strip built into the grid, or they are "grouted" with a silicon caulk. For large glass set directly onto a floor, it's usually set on a cushioning silicon mat. I suppose there are situations where a rigid bonding adhesive could be used (like a thinset) but the ones I've seen are flexible in nature. There's some really cool glass stuff going on out there. My wife and I were in a a bar in Barcelona that a lot of glass detailing: it had "lava lamp" type of flooring, bar countertop, and tables. Seemed to be two sheets of glass, gapped maybe 1/4" or so, with the liquid between the two sheets being just like a lava lamp. You press on the glass table or bar top, or press on the floor with foot pressure, and the liquid swirled around between the two sheets of glass. It was all backlit, very shimmery. Really cool. Not a good place to walk around when you're a little tipsy. They had glass stair treads which I thought were dangerous. We were there for a while and several people stumbled on the stairs. Didn't seem to be the alcohol. More of a depth perception problem.
...See More
Underlying the tile question for tile experts Bill and Mongo
Q
Comments (15)
"Mongoct-- (sorry OP) If not using Kerdi shower pan, but just a mudbed/liner, can you use a topical membrane for a shower floor? I've posted previously, but it didn't catch your attention. I'm trying to understand this more as well... " Sorry if I missed your previous post. I seem to be hit and miss on the forums these days. I'm a little confused by the "mudbed/liner" comment and the desire to use it in conjunction with a topical membrane. So let me ramble a bit: I consider "liners" to be the CPE or CPVC thick shower membrane liners, the ones where you use a deck mud preslope, then install the liner over that with a clamping drain, then top the liner with another layer of deck mud, and you tile upon that. If that's what you're asking about, no I wouldn't use a topical membrane on top of all that. Here's what I consider to be a liner installation. Now back-tracking a bit: There are folk that use a topical membrane with a clamping drain, but they have to "dish out" the sloped mud bed as it gets close to the drain. It's sometimes referred to as the "divot method". That way the topical membrane will drain to the drain's weep holes. If you don't use a divot, then the raised part of the clamping drain can sort of act like a dam, causing water under the tile to pool around the drain. The area around the drain might appear perpetually wet. The divot method is not a technique I embrace. Nothing really wrong with it, it's just not my cup of tea. Here is a photo showing the "divot" carved out of the mud base: Virtually every shower I do is a one-off size or shape, so I'm almost always doing a sloped deck mud base. As to which topical membrane to use, when using Kerdi, I'll do a sloped mud pan and then cover that with Kerdi. If using Hydroban, then I'll still use a Kerdi drain in the sloped mud floor but then use Hydroban on the floor and walls. So if you want to use a topical membrane, then no , do not also use a liner within the floor. One membrane is all you want. Does that help?
...See More
urgent/pics: bill, mongo, all - terrazzo shower base install/prep
Q
Comments (9)
Your comments make me think there are specific reasons that the GC isn't coordinating this? Well, if the inexperienced GC is only giving you "loose directions", did you at least read this before you proceeded? Prior to using any slc, you really need your ducks lined up. You need all your prep work done, especially sealing any crevices that the slc could flow through. You need to contain the slc to get a level finished area. You also need to have your helpers lined up and they need to know their roles in the process. Who is mixing the next batch, who is transporting, who is placing, who is leveling, who is cleaning. The key to placing slc is to do it in one "continuous" pour, you want to be placing the second batch before the first batch is past its open time. If the floor is so out of whack that you have an excessive thickness of slc to be placed, then it can either be done in separate lifts, or you can ditch the slc and do a mud floor. From your post I don't know what the scope of the project is - are you just leveling the area under the shower base, or are you leveling the entire bathroom floor? Were this my project, and the floor was really nasty, I'd consider pulling the subfloor and leveling the floor joists (new joists sistered to the existing or tapered shims on top of the existing). Presumably it's not too bad since you're going the slc route. For slc I'd prep the existing floor. Re-nail what's there, and if needed, add another layer of ply. Then add a rim to contain the slc. Rim the drain so the slc doesn't flow down the drain hole. Seal any cracks in the underlayment/subfloor. Prime the underlayment/subfloor if required with an slc primer. If needing several batches and doing this DIY, try to have a 3-person crew. One to mix, one to transport the product from the mixer to the placer and clean the buckets after the product is placed, and a third person to place the slc. At a minimum you need two people, one to mix, another to place. You need to be a well-coordinated crew as you don't want cold joints from one batch of slc to another. As far as placing the terrazzo base, as long as the subfloor is level, the drain holes line up and the area is properly framed, it's not that difficult. Mongo
...See More
Tile Help - Please! Bill, Mongo et al...
Q
Comments (3)
Looks to me like you're now going to have a small piece at the top of the upper niche once he moves it up. What's it do at the bottom of the wall? PLEASE tell me he didn't start with a full tile on the bottom? If he did, you're now going to end up with that sliver all along the bottom of all the walls. Can you back up and take a pic of the whole thing?
...See More
bill_vincent
15 years ago
Anytime I do mosaics, glass or otherwise, it's always sanded grout, and yes, a 3/16" v-notch should do you just fine.
MongoCT
15 years ago
Yeah...what that other guy said!

You wrote that it's "clear glass tile with a white backing". Is the white backing an epoxy coating? Or is the white backing a mesh that the tiles are glued to?

One thing to be careful of with glass is the thinset. If you leave ridges in the thinset, you might get uneven bedding of the tile and you;ll see the thinset ridges through the clear glass tile.

I'll apply the thinset (white thinset, not gray) to the walls using the notched edge of the trowel, that will get you a measured amount of thinset on the walls. Then I use the flat side of the trowel to knock the ridges down so the thinset is smooth. Then set your tile in that.

You want 100% coverage on the backs of the clear glass tiles.

Regarding white versus gray thinset, gray can muddy the color of the clear glass tile.

A slight tangent, but a lot of times with clear glass tile I've colored the white thinset with pigments for added effect.

Mongo
bill_vincent
15 years ago
The glass in the photo above is clear, and the color is painted on the backs, as well. That's why the tile takes on a 3 dimensional appearance and you see shadows from the grout joints.
momto3girls
Original Author
15 years ago
Thanks, the unsanded was recommended by the mfg to avoid scratching of the glass surface. Sounds like that shouldn't be an issue though. The backing is a white epoxy or some other coating so there shouldn't be any thinset showing through. But I'll take the advice about smoothing out, makes sense to get 100% coverage with the smaller tiles.

XPost from Kitchens: Bill or Mongo, Glass Tile Install

Comments (6)

bill_vincent

momto3girls
Original Author

Related Discussions

bill_vincent

MongoCT

bill_vincent

momto3girls
Original Author

COMPANY

BUSINESS SERVICES

GET HELP

CONNECT WITH US

XPost from Kitchens: Bill or Mongo, Glass Tile Install

Comments (6)

bill_vincent

momto3girlsOriginal Author

Related Discussions

bill_vincent

MongoCT

bill_vincent

momto3girlsOriginal Author

COMPANY

BUSINESS SERVICES

GET HELP

CONNECT WITH US

momto3girls
Original Author

momto3girls
Original Author