I'm coming from the opposite end here, having never had a MW but about to -- no, I actually *just* did, buy a MW for the first time. I bought the Miele speed oven -- that brand as opposed to GE because I want it to be under-counter and the other isn't rated for that. But I want to assure you that reheating without a MW is entirely do-able. Frankly, I find that by the time I hustle and bustle about doing whatever needs doing before food can be eaten, enough time has gone by to have heated food in a normal way. As for coffee, I actually find that it heats remarkably quickly just on a hot-pad too. Not instantly, definitely not as fast as with a MW, but hot-enough if you factor in futz-time. If you have a drip coffee pot one thing you can do (caution: purists will cringe at the upcoming suggestion but some of us reformed addicts are too inured to care) is just run a little water back through the grounds. If strength is really important you can also toss a few more up there. It only takes a minute or two to reheat and redrip a bit of hot water back through. And it's not really any different from a chemex filter afterall -- you re-water grounds by hand all the time. I don't know why this notion so upsets people, but I know it can. Still, it is an option for getting that coffee hot quickly. And then you *can* just heat it on the stove. Get a small little upright turkish-coffee style saucepan. I use that thing all the time; they can be a pain to clean though. It takes the same amount of time to heat a cup of liquid in that as a MW. Honestly. So, um, why did I just buy one?

I agree with Mr Salesman that a heat pump is the way to go. I'm not even sure why you have gas heat in Florida. Electric back-up strips can be used in the air handler, or you can have a gas furnace in the air handler as supplimental heat. Below 32 degrees F outside air, a house loses heat faster than the heat pump can supply it, so supplimental heat is needed. What are your electric costs ($ per kw-hr). The 2TTX5042 condenser with 2TEE3F40 is a matched set rated at 42,500 btu-hr, 12.8 EER, and 15 SEER. These are fantastic numbers. Your true cost of operation is determined by EER and not SEER, much to the surprise of many people. EER is rated at 95 degrees outside air temps while SEER is rated at only 82 degrees outside air temps. That air handler does have a variable speed blower. The 2TTX5042 condenser with a 2TXCC049 air handler and UD080R9V furnace is also a matched set rated at 40,500 btu-hour, 15.25 SEER, and 12.8 EER. Not sure if the blower is variable speed. You may be able to check Trane's website for that info - search on the furnace model#. There are no HSPF ratings since the above systems are not heat pumps. For your piece of mind, you should consider a PARTS AND LABOR warranty. The manufacturer's warranty is parts-only, no labor. You can search www.energystar.gov to find the rebate requirements. You'll have to step up to the XL16i with the right air handler to get the required SEER/EER/HSPF. All 3 must be met to get the rebate. The 16i uses a 2-stage compressor. Typically these systems are much more $$ to purchase than single stage compressors. The VisionPro is loved by the pros. The VisionPro IAQ is even more advanced. You can check them out on Honeywell's website. You ask solid questions. An HVAC-educated homeowner (myself included) helps to insure a good purchase, a good install, and a happy ending. Best to you. Here is a link that might be useful: ARI Directory

Ms222 Oh my, what a great house on the water. You love modern...really nice table and chairs. If you go all modern and plan on keeping the same kitchen floor plan you will have to replace all the doors top and bottom, eliminate the two short staggered cabinets on top and add cabinets in their place on the same line as the others. Eliminate the upper moldings style and backsplash; the countertop would work fine as is. Eliminate the chair rails and replace all interior doors. I would paint your walls in a flat paint and see how you like it and then decide when or if to eliminate the texture. When I painted my son's textured walls in Behr porpoise gray flat paint we had to touch the walls to even know the texture was there. However, it's hard to see how much texture you have in your pictures and we don't know if there is texture behind the chair rails. Anyway, after all that you'll have a good start on transforming it all to a completely different look. I know it might seem overwhelming but once you get a start on it it will be fun. I almost envy you because I'm a gal who needs projects and mayhem; I'm in limbo now just fixing things up to sell for a future downsize. Not fun! In my next house I'm hoping to do a completely different style. I want to buy the little stinky 60's house across the street from the waterfront mansions. Then I plan on becoming their very bestest friend and ride around in their yacht lol. Jill, please post after you go to the NY store and tell us of the quality. I have never actually touched Lillian August furniture. I really love so many things on the online site though and like the fact that there are a few things in my price range. Of course all the sofa's and chairs I really love are at the highest prices... boo Looking forward to your report!

Thank you above all. 1, yes, this brown dome skylight is no cost, it was wrapped well in my attic from previous owner, I just teared off wraps. My understanding is the current cracked one has been there at least 15y, For me, it is acceptable if it could make another 15y after replace it. 2, I can go to glass one under reasonable cost ( is glass easily to crack?), but don't know where to order, if the new glass one need totally redoing the frame, it could increase the cost a lot, I hope I could get it done under $500. 3, I don't know any pro around and where to find one, Those guys who replaced my roof said: since the underneath iron frame was nailed in, they could not simply replace it. But, after I checked the structure in and out ( Please see the diagram I drew), it looks to me, I could replace it without touching the iron base frame, so not touching outside flash either, I could only unscrew the outside "retainer frame" then put back with new skylight.