This old thread got revisited. @dani_m08 to answer the question about extra probe, I believe I ordered an extra one when I bought the set up. The probe wire is just setting in the junction box I think but honestly I cant remember. When I laid out the underfloor heating and the probe, I just ran another probe near the first probe, and it was then sealed into the floor self leveling compound as per instructions. then the end was just threaded into the wall like the one that would be live, and not connected, but just laying there in the box. Regarding the tile layout. I just decided to run it this way, after getting instructions on the 90Degree way, IIRC. The herringbone that I love is from my childhood and the side walks in my neighborhood that all ran at 45Degree. so that to me is herringbone. I know you posted on @sochi thread about her amazing bathroom and a wall mounted faucet. I would totally do it if I had the right sink for it. In my case I had made my sink out of soapstone and an integrated backsplash. The pictures of this bathroom reveal are no longer available because of the use of photo bucket, when it was Gardenweb. I did not keep my account with photo bucket. I'll add some of the reveal pictures so you can see the sink and floor. Regarding the sink there is no ledge for water to drip from my hands when using the faucet. The water drips right into the sink. In my other bathroom with a deck mounted faucet I am always wiping up drips and it is a nuisance. I much prefer the setup for this sink. Below: I love the flush finish from the faucet to the bottom of the sink. nothing drips on a counter or edge of a sink. Below: looking in from the doorway. Below: Here I am finishing up the sink. the backsplash was epoxied on as a separate piece. The whole soapstone install in the room took next to nothing to buy as they were all small pieces that I epoxied together with a 3 part stone epoxy. Below: this is the counter at the tub, and is in 2 long pieces but I was able to epoxy them together at there edges to make a wide slab for the top. All the soapstone was finished with a 60 grit sandpaper to be rough and this lovely soft tone of blue/green/gray/white. I did not oil it so this color tone would remain light. Below: If I recall correctly @sochi helped me decide on this Hubberton Forge Mirror. I have 3 different metals in this room, but they are all a cool silver to black color. Below: the center of this tower shares space with the kitchen on the other side of the wall. there is also some extra space that houses some electrical wiring. this is an old simple house. this bathroom was an add on when it got move to the farm in the 30s IIRC. The plumbing was all rearrange and some of the details that were orignially there I kept but updated it, such as this tower feature. The old one went and the carpenter did a wonderful job with this one. Below: This feature was another thing I kept from the old bathroom but flipped it from the other end and had the carpenter put drawers in it. Before it was a hell hole. things got lost and the build was soooo old and creapy I didn't like using it for storage. Now it is perfect for storage.

My builder and one of his tile guys are coming this afternoon. I'll ask him these questions but I suppose that there's no way to know without starting to rip things apart...right? My fear is that he's just going to chalk it up to hot and cold weather and go on his merry way, while I'm left with this mess. If you have any other key questions to ask, lay em on me. @buddysmom The vanity is 23" deep, about 24" with the marble top. I had it made custom, based on a Restoration Hardware vanity (linked below). We ended up making the vanity a little wider, even, at 58". It was a good deal cheaper than RH and I got exactly the vanity I wanted, as well as a great medicine cabinet. We used mahogany. The only tradeoff was I couldn't find marble I liked at the place I looked that was 1.25", so the slabs in the bathroom (backsplash, vanity top, and window ledge are only .75" thick -- I don't think it made much of a visual difference though. Here is a link that might be useful: Restoration Hardware Hutton extra wide single washstand

In general, you caulk any gaps that you don't want water to get through and any gaps that are unsightly. Said gaps are nearly always where you have changes in plane. Examples: -where tub deck and surround meet (whether tile, solid surface panels, acrylic, or whatever) -corners of tub or shower (regardless of surface unless you've got a one-piece fiberglass surround that has no gap in the corners) -where vanity backsplash meets wall -where baseboards and door/window casings meet wall -where baseboards meet floor -where tub meets floor Things I wouldn't caulk: -around base of toilet (then you wouldn't see any leaks if you had them) -gap between vanity and wall or vanity and floor Use siliconized latex caulk.

Why not use a clear caulk? Is that a big no no? It might have been 'correct' to match the grout to the caulk but I think the black looks wrong, like an excel spreadsheet with a bold outline around a group of cells...