Plumbing costs to move fixtures? PICS!

14 years ago

So we're toying with the idea of remodeling our bathroom, and either just "pretty" it up or completely remodel moving the fixtures. Can someone give me a ballpark figure of what plumbing costs would be to move the current layout to the new layout? The bathroom is located on the 2nd floor of our house in the back left corner of the house. Directly to the right is my bedroom, and the current sink plumbing is fully accessable in my bedroom closet. There is a wall that holds the shower plumbing (shown in the pics) and a wall that jets out about 4 " behind the toilet that holds that plumbing. Don't know what other info is needed...

Current layout:

New layout proposal:

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Comments (9)

snert
14 years ago
This could be pricey. With the caveat that I'm not a plumber, here are a few things I notice.

1) you will need to connect the toilet into the sewer stack that vents to the roof behind the existing toilet location and down to the sewer main under the house. Since this is a second story bath, adding a new stack to the roof might be manageable, but the real issue is how to connect to the sewer stack that goes down to below the house (presumably on the exterior "left" wall in your diagram), which then connects to the sewer main.

2) There does not appear to be a wall at the head of the bathtub.

You will also have significant drywall and flooring costs, in addition to the plumbing expenses.
kellyrie
14 years ago
I'm not sure about direct costs but I have heard that moving a toilet can be pretty expensive. Why not just mirror image your proposal so the toilet stays in the same place. The tub could use some of the existing plumbing components of the sink as well I would imagine. You already have the hot and cold water in that vicinity.
Just a thought...
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Since my original post, I did buy the home, closed on the 29th, but that almost didn't happen - one of the main reasons was, tada, this bathroom! During the walkthrough the day before closing I came to find out that they had to replace the shower pan, which meant, they replaced the tiles in the shower, and with them being tiles from the 60s, not only did they not match, but as a repair, it was an AWFUL job! I was pissed and upset to say the least. I couldn't understand why the owners didn't offer me the option of a credit to do the bathroom over as I saw fit, instead of doing this on their own, it just made no sense. We finally got them to give us a credit and I'll be ripping out the entire bathroom. What they paid to have done in there was just a waste of money and almost cost them the sale of the house - and cost them more at the end with the credit given. I'm still not sure what I'm going to do with this bathroom. I've taken off that gawd awful accordian door (Freecycle!) I'm looking at tiles, trying to find a 18" vanity base to free up some more floor space, probably put in bypass shower doors as I can't stand getting wet when I turn on the shower as it is now, and there's no light in the shower, so this will bring in natural light. I'm still not sure how to deal with the door. I haven't found a good door to put there. THe original door swong in, door handle on right when it was there. I'm still toying with the idea of a pocket door. I'm going to get an estimate on switching the toilet and vanity, still not sure how much of a difference it would make. Too many things and possible options. Want an elongated toilet - does anyone know who makes some really short toilets when it comes to floor space? Good source for 18" vanities? Vanity there now is 41" thinking about a 36" wide instead, will give a bit more room. So, that's my mini update on this bathroom. I've been almost 3 weeks doing non-stop cleaning. As clean as they people were/appeared, you have NO idea what I've found deep cleaning! This morning, I'm off to paint the closets in the master bathroom - they painted the bedroom, but didn't take the extra step to paint the interior of the 2 closets, so I have a tan bedroom and light green/blue closets!!!
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You're gonna have issues with the kitchen sink height and will probably need to lower the waste arm in the wall while that wall is open. It's a frequent issue with kitchen redos and should just be planned to be done as a matter of course on any gut. I'd say smoke was also being blown about the sink moving over as easy as all that as well. It's also foolish to reinstall a garbage disposal. You need a new one. And if he's talking multi turn shut offs instead of 1/4 turn ones, that's another red flag. To switch to a shower only from a tub requires that you upsize the drain. That's code. Tha's beyond the third strike against the guy. I suspect that you are NOT dealing with an actual plumber but a handyman. You need to get an actual licensed and insured plumber in to do the job, and do it right instead of halfassed, which will be bid by the job, not the hour. If you get by under 2K for everything done correctly in your location, consider yourself fortunate.
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Can you give more information? Like do you have all the pipes in the right place and you're just replacing fixtures? Or do the pipes need to be moved, or rearranged and refitted? Are the pipes and connectors fairly new, or are they more than 10 years old and possibly corroded or otherwise damaged? Are they copper? Galvanized? Plastic? Are the cabinets and fixtures you're putting in standard size? Does everything fit right? Are the lines from the RO system already run, or does the plumber have to insert them through the cabinetry? Okay, the very, very least it should cost you, if all there is to do is just hooking things up to perfectly ready cabinets and pipes, is $500, by coastal, city prices for an experienced able guy + helper, and assuming they have all the right parts, everything ready to go, and no problems. That's if absolutely no piping, fixing, cutting, etc., needs to be done. It could cost as much as $10,000 (maybe even more) if you have a lot of repair, moving, repiping, patching, etc. Your best bet is to get recommendations from as many people as you can and getting at least three bids. Beware of the cheapest. That's often the one that overlooks something and ends up costing most in the long run. Ask for details in the bids so that you know exactly what they're saying they can do for the price.
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You can do a lot of the electrical work yourself if you have an electrician willing to help you do that. I'd never want to design my own electrical system -- setting up the circuits and the panel and all that -- I am sure I'd cause a fire. You want a professional to be the brains. But there are a WHOLE lot of repetitive tasks in an electrical install that you do not need to pay a professional's expensive, experienced brains to do. Have your electrician work out the electrical plan and go shopping with you to get the right wiring/boxes/switches. Once you have the right boxes on hand (from your shopping trip) and have been told where each should go, installing the boxes is a matter of measuring and screwing/hammering. You can do that. Maybe your electrician can show you how to install one box, and you do the rest. Once you have the right wire on hand and have been told where to run it from and to, running the wiring is a matter of drilling holes and poking wire through them. You can do that. Have the electrician check your work after to make sure you didn't mess up anything, but it really is quite simple if the plan and communication was clear. I had no issues at all. Once you have right outlets/switches/light fixtures on hand, installing them after drywall/painting is usually very simple. Most, if not all outlets/switches, follow the same pattern and actually come with little directions for how to install them. Your electrician can show you how to do one standard wall outlet, and you can do all the rest. Your electrician can show you how to do one standard wall switch, and you can do all the rest. Let him do the few 2-way or 3-way switches in your house or anything else less basic. For plumbing, let the plumber do the plumbing plan and the rough-in, but you should be able to install the fixtures (shower head, sink drains, shower trim, faucets, toilet, etc.) yourself without too much trouble by following the manufacturer's instructions and emailing or calling your plumber with the occasional question. Just find a plumber who is willing to work with you in that way. More than anything, the best thing you can do to save on plumbing and electrical is to get them right the first time. This means have a set, solid plan for your house, including all the finishes/design decisions BEFORE the electrician and plumber show up. Know and have finalized the entire kitchen layout, the bathroom layout, the cabinets (their locations and exact dimensions), the vanity, the light fixtures. Know and possibly already own and have on hand every piece that is going to be installed around this plumbing and electrical. Different vanities require the bathroom sink plumbing to be in different places. Different faucets require different things. Different light fixtures require different boxes or different box placements. Do not wave off ANY decisions as something you will decide later. That is how you realize four months later that what you really want doesn't work with the plumbing/electrical that was already installed and now you are paying the electrician/plumber twice to move things.
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just_julie
14 years ago
we are moving a 2nd story tub and have been told that the ceiling below will have to be removed to deal with the drain.
marie_louise
14 years ago
Why do you want to change the layout?
palimpsest
14 years ago
The stack (or main drain pipe) is probably right behind the toilet in that wall, if the set up is typical. Toilets should be within about 3 feet of the stack for proper drainage of sewage, while sinks and tubs can be up to 10 feet away (since their drains are smaller, only drain liquid, and the smaller pipe can slant more within a regular joist space).

It might be cheaper to do this (except the current window location is in the way and moving windows isn't cheap either. Maybe it could be tweaked without moving the window--if the tub faucet were on the inside wall, the window would be at the back of the tub.
{{gwi:1476814}}
nadine33
Original Author
14 years ago
Thanks everyone, probably more $$ then I want to spend. I wanted to chnage things because the current layout has a lot of wasted space. Our vanity is only 24" wide and can't get much wider due to where the door opens (there are also some towel racks stuck directly to the tiles to teh right of the sink). The current layout doesn't allow for a closet either and I was curious if I could add in a large "pantry" type cabinet that could serve as storage next to the sink in my propsed drawing. But I don't think I wnat to go this route if I need to tear open the ceiling below.
User
14 years ago
How much did you want to spend on the moving?
busybme
14 years ago
What are the actual domensions of your space?

Have you thought about flipping the vanity to run along the longer wall, under the window? You could lengthen the storage that way.
stlouie
14 years ago
Is it possible for you to put in a pocket door? Doing that will increase your floor space tremendously. We just had our plumbing done and we are in the St. Louis area, so I'm not sure how your prices will compare. Our toilet basically turned to another wall and moved over about 1.5 ft. Do you have an unfinished basement under this area? Thankfully we did, so it was easy access. The plumber had to notch heavily a joist to accommodate the toilet moving, so now an engineer has constructed a plan for support in the basement because of the notching. The shower is at the opposite end from where it was and the vanity is also about 6 ft away. Considering they didn't have to go back to the main stack to get proper slope for the plumbing, etc., our plumbing & electrical only cost us $2,600. But, now we have the added cost of the support in the basement as well.

Plumbing costs to move fixtures? PICS!

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Plumbing costs to move fixtures? PICS!

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