"Get references for an energy rater and make sure that they are trained." ditto I am reading in other forums of 'free' or minimal cost energy audits. if the sole purpose of the audit is to sell the fix up package and leakage is defined simply as equivelent to 3x5 hole in wall it isn't showing you where the leakage is located. Ideally have the audit done by an independent company that tests before and shows you leakage sites with recomendations as to how to seal them..and tests once sealing has been completed. This way the auditors loyality is to the consumer..not the company doing the repairs. caulking seals a lot of leakage and is flexible enough to provide a long lasting seal. mastics for ductwork and hvac related leakage will provide a long lasting seal for hvac. knowing where the leaks are and how to seal them is the true goal of an energy audit..imo & experience. foam insulation provides air sealing and insulation in one. sealing the leakage and conventional insulation is the equal if enough of the air sealing is done. this takes time and materials.. first you want an air barrier..then insulation. recessed lights that are not ICAT (insulation contact air tight) oversized cuts at bath fans, stove vents are large leakage sites. cuts in ceiling where supply boxes are installed should be mastic sealed as should return air and all duct connections,and plenum connections. sealing these (and other leakage sites) will improve your air barrier to the attic.. if you install cellulose keep in mind that the 'dust' from the newspaper & borates is very fine and can enter the living space and duct system. this is recirculated throughour the house. any gap from attic to living space will allow these particles to enter the house, as will leaks at supply boxes, r/a and plenums. one place to find energy rates is natresnet.org best of luck.

Kit 2 has a cooktop with drawer storage underneath, wall oven & fridge. There is natural light coming from three 36" window's from the north in the dinning area. There are also windows in the Living room that provides light while working at the island. Kit 1 has a range (cooktop & oven together) and fridge. If I switch the wall oven & Fridge then you can see the side of the fridge (which sticks out 8" past the counter) while sitting in the Living room. My concern is if Kitchen 1 is more functional as I am preparing meals. I get an 8' island to prepare food on, but would then have to walk over to the range after chopping food. Kit 2 has storage on either side of the cooktop for mixing bowls, pots & pans and 30" counter on either side for food preparation, but then I lose the window and the island has no storage and a sink that interrupt's the island.

Definitely a black table, but could you not possibly use slipcovers anywhere to help the worst of the mismatched seating to not clash with other things? I know you can't use it on the wood, unfortunately! Actually, a picture would really help because it really sounds like a lot of the pieces would go together pretty well. Is it possible to rearrange anything to help transition different colors from one place to another rather than being e.g. smack in between two clashing places (I'm saying 'clashing' assuming that's what they do)?

Such an interesting topic! I've a few thoughts on this too. Been in this 1950 cottage-ranch house with galley kitchen for 17-years now and have learned to make it work through compromise and concession. We've never changed the footprint because it is as efficient as it can be without knocking walls out. We did upgrade to hubby's choice of a Bosch electric range and Bosch dishwasher - we love them! He's very good at the technical aspect of all those items we can't live without now (DW, fridge, range, washer/dryer, etc.) Married 30+ years to a guy who often would like to "hover" (not in a helpful way) when I was cooking so I now see our galley "one-butt" kitchen has a kind of advantage - no room for hovering! I am one that likes my personal space when working in the kitchen. When our children were at home I did most of the kitchen prep and clean up - just worked better that way. Now I still do food prep and cleanup unless hubby has decided to make a special meal and then I just stay out of the way. Our DW is located right across from fridge with the usual problem, only one door can be opened at a time. We've learned to work around that and take turns when needed. One thing I've decided I would change sometime is the divided sink. It's a grand old heavy porcelain sink, expensive to replace but so awkward to work with. I'd love to have a large famhouse sink, the kind with the apron instead. Isn't it funny what we think we must have though? I lived in the UK in the 1970s with relatives and just about everyone had very small galley kitchens (old 2-story Edwardian London houses) and made them work. Most everyone had small counters, made of stainless steel with grooves one side for the "washing up." Range was small 24" and the fridges were the 4 cubic ft. small ones we see in Home Depot. Most people went shopping every day or so. Oh, and the gas "immersion" that one had to light each time to start the "cooker." At anyrate, people entertained and put on dinners quite well with these tiny kitchens. FWIW I too have a hubby who will stand and gaze in the fridge and ask..."what should I have for ...dinner/lunch....?" and also leave a trail of bits of rubbish when the pullout bin is steps away. Go figure! But, he's wonderful at fixing so many things and has saved us a bundle from repair bills. All boils down to give-and-take when you share a home with people I guess.