It's best to have a decent photo editing software and add your printing with the editor. Photo Shop, Photo Shop Elements, Paint Shop Pro--or you can download Serif Photo Plus for free. It will take a little practice but with these editors you can choose a font, a size, a color and then add your text anywere on the photo you like. First size your photos so that you won't need to crop off anything after adding the text. Next add the text. Then Snapfish or Kodak or any photo finishing shop can print the photos and the text will be included. I did a short posting on adding text to photos with Serif a long time back. You can visit the post and see if this is something you are interested in. Below is a screen shot of the Serif Photo Plus program in use adding text to the photo. BC Here is a link that might be useful: Lilacs and roses garden blog

Hi rhizo - happy spring no, I don't think it's fireblight although last season, one of my trees - one that grew wild on it's own and I'm not sure what it is - definitely looked like it had fire blight in August. Burned out branches that curled at the ends etc. I cut it back accordingly and so far, this season, that particular tree looks fine and the new leaves look healthy. It's only this plum tree that is exhibiting deformed and discolored leaves. The pear tree has a few deformed leaves...not many...but it is the tree closest to the plum. I wanted to upload a picture of the pear leaf, but they only allowed one picture upload. You can see pictures of the Pear leaves here: http://www.mihaus.com/images/PearTreeLeaf.jpg http://www.mihaus.com/images/PearTreeLeaves.jpg Although it doesn't look like the same issue that the plum tree has, I am concerned since they were so close to each other. Jean, thanks for your response. I'm certainly no expert by any means but I've read that there are a few diseases they can share, so I'm concerned. I've been spraying diligently with agrimycin for the past few weeks, and just yesterday I started to spray with neem oil. Since I posted yesterday I decided to just get rid of the plum tree since it's been a problem from the day I bought it and before the weather gets any warmer and the rain and humidity pass the disease around I'm going to remove it from the roof. Now my big concern is my Pear tree. Please take a look at the pictures. Thanks Here is a link that might be useful:

What about something like this? It puts the Prep Zone on the peninsula and the range nearby. The range is protected and still against a wall for (1) less expensive, easier, and more effective venting and (2) far enough away from visitors that they won't get splattered by grease or have steam/smoke/odors in their face. You also have 42"+ of workspace b/w the prep sink & range for prepping...a good amount of space. You also have some space on the other side of the prep sink for setting things down and reducing the chances of pushing things off onto the floor. The prep sink will also provide a place for hand washing without having to go deep into the kitchen. It does close off the kitchen more, but it also provides more separation of zones. The only real drawback I see is that you will prepping in the only entrance to the kitchen...but perhaps a 49" aisle will be enough...I don't know if it will be for you, only you can answer that. It does, however, give you your "inclusion" with others for 80% of your work...prepping + cooking. You might consider either glass doored upper cabinets or no cabinets b/w the refrigerator & sink to reduce the "cave" issue. With glass doored cabinets (or none) plus the large window plus good lighting, I don't think the corner near the refrigerator will be much of a "dark cave". Layout #4: Layout #4 w/Zones: Notice how well separated the zones are and no zone-crossing. This layout would allow up to 4 people to work comfortably in the kitchen...Cleanup in front of the main sink, Prepping at peninsula, Cooking at the corner range, and Prepping or MW cooking b/w the range & main sink. BTW...that MW could be mounted on a shelf below upper cabinets on that run if you prefer that setup.

Rodney, Clipping that one leaf may initially take away 1/100th of the plants energy, but by giving the new growth sun, and speeding it along, 4 days down the road youre looking at a net gain of leaves and some extra branch, because you saved the plant some work. Just a little ahead of the game. Remember rodney, not cutting branches. Just a leaf. did you read the title though? Or the post itself? "tall experiment plant" "3 in one pot" "ran out of space" "why do you think the stems need sun? They dont. Stop pruning, its a waste of your time" Yes, rodney. They do. Are your plants planted in shade? More leaves absorbing sun=more energy. Its sound logic. Anyway i think i said i had an experiment plant and wanted ideas, not some holier than thou pepper monger being rude, ordering me how to garden. Astute knowlege of side chutes growing too tall rodney, but if you actually look at my experiment plant, the one we are discussing, youll notice that all side chutes are low and aiming outward trying to be a bush. Hence the original post seeking to further stimulate that growth. Yea, hab, i have a shortish season but really its abnormally windy which is why im trying to create bushes, thus far i have learned not all species like to be topped, and i cant for my life figure out a pattern for new-to-me species next spring. A little bummed about a few plants. Haha, yea yea, you got me hobby. I may be that, but im no idiot! :)