I have one and have commented on it on this forum in the past. It looks just like the one in your link, except my cabinets are red birch. It works fine for my purposes. It had a slight skin rattle but shimming the right side against the next cabinet wall with some packing foam eliminated the noise.

Obtain all the literature and help guides available from Sharp and read them to plan your installation.

This unit is heavy. Having access to the wall during the renovation, I added additional reinforcement in the wall to attach the backing plate to. I also shimmed the unit to fit the cabinet face.

Installation is best performed according to directions (using the modified shipping package), but be careful to not use the screws mounting the unit to the cabinet above to pull it up. Their threads aren't strong enough. Either arm power or a cabinet jack should be used and then the screws tightened. Cabinet jacks list for a high price, but can be found for much less and have other uses.

If you place a toaster oven below it and leave the toaster oven door open after use, the rising heat may cause a trim piece at the front bottom to come loose. Rubber automotive trim attachment tape such as 3M makes can be used to reattach the strip and achieve a higher temperature capability. Or close the oven door soon after removing the heated contents.

kas

As kas, I also have one, installed in my remodel last summer. It works great for our function and having it off the counter is commendable. It's easy to clean, no problems after a year of heavy use. Didn't know it was heavy so my installer gets a nod.

I hope Sharp continues to make this or similar under cabinet 24" model and considers bumping up the wattage/offerings.

Hi,
We considered the sharp microwave but decided on the GE Profile due to ease of installation. We had a space made by our cabinet maker - the unit sits right on the shelf, very easy. No problems with the unit.
MJ

Thanks everyone for comments.

MJ, your cabinet maker made it just fit.

Addendum: Glanced at the wattage of our Sharp UnderCabinet Microwave. It is 1100 Watts not 800.

mjocean:

I believe that GE MW is spec'd to have 3" of clearance on each side, do you have some sort of venting solution out the back or below? Or has it just worked without overheating problems for you?

This post was edited by herg39458 on Tue, Jul 15, 14 at 12:33

Hi Herg,
We have never had any problem with overheating and there is no additional ventilation. The unit was installed May, 2013. The reason the ease of installation is so important to us is because we had a Sharp OTR in another house which needed replacing 3X in 6 years. Each time my husband said he would never get another under cabinet microwave. I will highlight we have had very good luck with Sharp counter models (I am told Sharp manufactures for most if not all labels). It may be the heat from the cooktop that caused the problems with the Sharp OTR, we really don't know.
MJ

Interesting, MJ, thanks. I myself am looking for a MW that fits in an upper cabinet (started another thread on it yesterday, actually). No OTR for us either. That GE model is about the only one that is not too deep that isn't a dorm MW. A lot of them seem to specify clearance that is quite large.

Hi Herg,
FYI- my sister has the same MW in the same configuration from the same cabinetmaker; her microwave has been installed for 3+ years with no problem. As an added fact, my sister has 5 children including 3 teenage boys, so a lot of use and no problems.
MJ

Thanks for the comments and feedback. It's appreciated.

hi mjocean, what is the depth of your cabinets in which the microwave is installed. Thanks

As an update, I should note that my original ca. 2010 Sharp 1214 OTC developed an issue this past Spring with a stuck microswitch among the three that are actuated by the door closing. The symptom was apparent failure to stop when the door was opened. This would, of course, be a problem with a microwave source, but in actuality, only the lamp and fan kept running. The MW source (magnetron) has more redundant safeguards.

While waiting for parts I obtained a new model of the same unit and installed it. I have repaired the old unit and kept it for a spare. As it turned out, the microswitch was only a tad gummy, and once freed worked normally. I replaced it anyway, and cleaned the interior spaces (lightly greasy) and venting paths. I think the new model has a brighter display, so the old model's display may have faded some (lost contrast). I don't think the display would be cost-effective to replace due to being buried in the door.

Although I tore the unit apart to get to everything (other than the door interior), the microswitches are fairly accessible with just the cover removed. Dissassembly manuals are available on the Internet, and parts still available from Sharp's designated distributor.

I also obtained an example of the recommended microwave leakage test meter, and checked out the old MW. No measurable leakage relative to Sharp's standard of 1 mW/cm2, much less the US Government's limit of 5 mW/cm2. I could only get a reading inside the MW's shell next to the magnetron output, so I think the design maintains a safe environment even after significant age.