Good news, I passed my inspection. I got a different inspector today, and she didn't even bother to go outside and look at the roof vent or venture into the basement to see what I have left after ripping out the loop vent. All she did was tap on the vent pipe and ask, "Is this under test." Yep. "OK, it's approved." I could have run the drain pipe into a trash barrel! A bit OT, but she also did the electrical inspection which consisted of a less-than-thorough check to see if I had the proper staple spacing and had plastic grommets on metal boxes. Approved! I guess she was too busy to actually check the circuits, breakers, loads, etc. Is this how inspections typically work? Do they assume that because I'm going through the trouble of getting a permit that I will follow code? I expected a more diligent inspection of my work, especially considering this is a complete DIY project which is noted on my permit.

Do I have this right? There is 11.5 feet of open space in the center between clean up and range run. Is there an island or something not shown? Agree with herbflavor about thinking through the base cabinet layouts considering storage needs for things like plastic bags, foil, pot holders, pots, etc. Would also agree with cam that the sink is pretty far away from the range. Couple of minor things to consider when you're weighing pros and cons - a little tech and a little personal opinion. Da-n casings, huh? Stuff looks best when everything has a little breathing space. So, windows and doors need enough room to have complete casings - including the returns on a solid crown like you've shown. Then you need a little gap of wall showing of at least two inches and then start cabinets. Pick the final window widths by what fits. It's also time to plan exactly what you're going to want at the top of the cabinets. You have a puzzle to think through where the cabinet depths vary when the cabinets have crown moldings AND you have different ceiling heights to worry about. I'm not sure about the outlet positioning. Could be fine. The electrical gods are going to force you to have them at least every 4 feet along the prep run... Something else to think about while your considering how to light your new kitchen (might add some moldings) and where your light switches will go. I think stuff like beadboard works best when its assigned a "use". So, a use is something like "back of open and glass door cabinets". This gives some consistency to the design. The use rules also make other decisions for you, no bead board on the hood, but add to back of cabinets flanking range. Consistency is always an issue for me because I like everything, but the more I constrain my choices to fit the rules I've set, the more I like the results. I'd put a solid door cabinet over the ref for sure. It's too out of the way for cleaning and what's drawn is a little bit to much cutesy for the style you've chosen. The same is true of the vertical split door cabinets on either side of the hood. It could be time to re-evaluate whether you'd rather have a cottage feeling space than a victorian space. Same layout, different detailing. Tech comment on the hood and the corbels - There is a change of depth at the ref and hood. The ref is about 24"-26" deep and the hood is 24" to 27" deep. The small glass front cabinet is 12" deep - so the corbel will sit 12-15" back from the face of the hood. In that position, the corbels will read as fake detail. Also, the gods of the building codes might be unhappy with wood bits sticking over the top of the range - I know you don't have open flames or anything, but the gods are sometimes pretty stubborn and into the letter of the code. For me, it also brings up whether you need the two flanking uppers at all, whether you're willing to keep the contents of them orderly at all times and whether their decorative effect would actually get completely lost. Other choices I can think of are - just cut them and leave the shelves, the hood and the ref as drawn now; - extend the hood construction (not the liner) across the entire opening (wainscot panels across the top with your shelf or could be simple plaster with wood bottom trim) with your choice of stuff on the back wall (rail system, linear pot rack, old fashioned wall shelf, or empty with a really nifty tile); keep the ref and the original hood, but also cut the shelves in the corner; or make the glass door and shelf cabinets deeper so the fronts aren't so far back. I think I'll win todays run-on sentence contest! I would lower the entire prep run counter and let it die into the regular height counters on the side wall cabinets. The gods of cabinetry say a fitting filler of at least 1.5 inches is REQUIRED on the prep base cabinet run and on the range run. This is to take up the slack for small measurement and construction errors when the design is done in advance of construction. Thinking about the narrow-pull out pantry, remember three things. They are pretty expensive for storage - expect that thing to cost around $200-$300 per inch of width. Depending on the "guts" chosen, you can lose up to 4" of usable shelf width from what you may be thinking - a 3-4" wide unit doesn't sound so exciting, does it? Last, your pantry opening is likely to have casing. I can't tell from the drawings, but if the opening is close to the pull-out, it will need to get even smaller to clear the casings. This is just me, but instead of doing a really expensive can pullout beside the ref, I'd sweep the little bit of extra space into the pantry proper and re-noodle its layout. There might be something else that could work out like utilizing stud space. Just as reassurance - your layout is very close to complete. This is my very favorite kind of kitchen and you have enough space to execute it well.

@hallettco When I remodeled I wanted a Havens copper sink and was told by my designer that a kitchen sink in a multi-family condo needed to have a UL Certification. I found this mind boggling because 1) what possible electrical issues could a kitchen sink have 🤣🤣 and 2) the quality of my super expensive Havens copper sink was better than the cheap sinks that did have the certification. The plumbing inspector who did my inspections was a stickler for many many things - I think I was inspected four times but he never checked to see if there was a UL label on the kitchen sink. 🤷🏼‍♀️ My GC and designer said they could probably find a sticker from one of the sinks they were using on other projects if worse came to worse🤫

My kitchen designer informed me of the bad news when we were going over the final interior stuff for the cabinets. She is pretty up on permit stuff as she also does commercial stuff. I was dumbfounded as I assumed UL was for stuff like electrical appliances where there is actually an issue of danger. Perhaps later some plumbing expert will let me know exactly what the certification covers for a kitchen sink. It's not my building that is the issue. I am actually head of the architectural approval committee although I will obviously recuse myself to sign off on this. We aren't picky about sinks - just making sure everything is done by licensed bonded tradespeople and if people install washer/dryers, they need to be low flow and ventless. Occasionally, someone really wants to move plumbing around and then we bring in an engineering firm to approve the plans and inspect the work. If you look at sinks, you will actually see that they are UL or UPC certified. It might be just Los Angeles rather than California so you should check with whoever is pulling permits for you in terms of requirements. And as I wrote, I suspect that many of the sinks are being done without permits. I certainly doubt people replacing a kitchen sink or a counter are pulling a permit for that kind of work. Joseph Corlett, LLC - My designer has an on-site inspection with who she says is the pickiest permit inspector in Los Angeles and she is going to run it by him and show him the specs. It's 99% copper - no lead - thick gauge - what in heck could they want in a sink except to make money for the bureaucracy.