Thanks for all the suggestions - I tried looking at the "Filter MAC Addresses" and not sure I am understanding - but I went to the web address for the router and found the place where you can select the option for "Only Allow Computers with MAC Address Listed Below to Connect" but that option was not selected and no addresses listed. So I didn't feel comfortable setting it up as opposed to adding another address if there'd already been some listed there. I did follow the instructions for finding the address on the laptop but the number looked a bit strange - just a bunch of zero's with an alpha character at the end which made me think maybe I hadn't found the actual address and of course that made me hesitant about adding to the router for fear I might foul up the 2 computers that are working correctly. I did try the 'flush' and powered everything back up in the sequence you gave me but same thing, and then had to do it again in order to get the 2 original computers back online. So now, I am debating the uninstall of the Lenovo ReadyConn - I may try that when I get the courage. OR I've been thinking that I might just be better off buying a new router. The one I have is 3 years old - if it's old for a router, then maybe that is my best bet and hope a new one will fix my issues. I can't thank you enough for all the help you've given. I'll keep working with this and trying and re-trying as I have time over the next few days. If/when I get this resolved I'll let you know what I've come up with. Thanks again for taking the time and making the effort to help - it is a great comfort to those of us that so desperately need it. Frances

Interesting reads and emotions here. I'm not an AT&T subscriber, user or stock holder. We use Verizon for our cell and hard wire phone provider. Anyway, a router works by taking the internet signal and splitting it into different addresses within your home network. In order to be able to do this the router must be receiving the signal to begin with. Regular routers receive their signals from modems (cable or satellite). If you are going to be grabbing a wireless signal similar to the way a cell phone receives you need a mobile modem:router. So, to answer your first question, AT&T is being honest with you. You need an AT&T mobile modem:router to receive the AT&T wireless signal, just like you need an AT&T compatible cell phone to receive an AT&T cell phone signal. The answer to your second question is no. Your D-link wireless router can't receive the wireless AT&T signal so it will not work. AT&T is not the only game in town, so to speak, when it comes to wireless phone and internet service. If you don't like them and/or don't trust them what are you doing using them?

I am canceling my service with Comcast. I have the $4.99 charge to cover me in case I need to have a service call. Well in April I did have a service call as one of my two phone lines was not working. The technician who came out broke my phone and did not tell me that he broke it. I found that out much later -- it should have been a hint when he did not want me to hold the phone. Then he or Comcast put a $70.00 charge on my account. When I called Comcast, I told them about this, they admitted that it should not have been there and they told me that they would credit my account on the next bill, but that I was expected to pay it and they would issue a credit. I need to check the statutes but I don't think you can collect on disputed charges, especially when you are aware that YOU made the mistake. For the $70.00 that should not have been billed, they interrupted the service. I refuse to pay it and have notified my local jurisdiction and the FCC. If you are looking for a cable or internet or phone provider, don't walk past Comcast, run as fast and as far as you can.

lwo: I'm not too sure about Simplicity, but I think that was a foreign subsidiary of DuPonts. The name began with an "M" but eludes me now. It isn't the same as Etura. I remember DuPont wouldn't allow cove backsplash with it. They figured if you could afford cove, you could afford Corian apparently. If I did an insert repair on Corian and lost even an 1/8" off the top it would still match because of the consistency of the particle dispersion. Major manufacturers send their sheets through a wide belt sander which removes all the "cream" off the top. The home brewers can't afford it and even if they could, you can't send a precast "L" through a belt sander. The irritating thing about this is the damage it did to the solid surface brand. These guys passed off cheap garbage as solid surface, giving the authentic a bad name in the process.