Yes I too love the look of Teak...not a big fan of solid gold however! Yes a full floor is quite costly... I didnÂt want to be responsible for more downed trees but I really wanted at least a teak tray in my shower to get the spa feel in the morning so here is a Green project idea for you. Depending on the size of your shower floor...mine is standard Neo shape...I cruzed Craigs list for large teak outdoor patio table...I found a diamond in the rough a very nice quality teak table that needed tlc....and a new life! First I power sanded the teak to get down to the nice wood while the table was still together. I made a pattern of my shower pan and cut the table strategically to align the board slats to look aesthetic in the panÂ.used the cut off under pieces for additional strength and even used the left over stainless screws that are the perfect depthÂhit the finished product with a quality polyurethane. The whole project cost me $30! and looks awesome. I paid $20 for the table and $10 for the polyurethane. It goes nicely with the slate in the shower pan and floorÂand my Zen vessel sink. You can do this project in a afternoon...let the poly dry for 24 hrs and let the party begin. Cheers! Karl Eberhardt Aka The Bathroom Daddy Here is a link that might be useful: Bathroom Daddy

You can use anything you like to fill the gap behind the tile. Its only function is to back up the bottom of the tile so it can't be kicked and broken. Thinset is my usual "go to, but I've also used grout and sand mix on occasion. I thought the idea was that the tile did not touch the pan, No, the idea is that the pan flange comes up behind the tile, while a vapor barrier comes from behind the cement board, and in front of the lip (or the cement board gets a waterproofing membrane) so that all water stays in the pan. The caulk joint between the tile and the pan is what takes up the movement. When I read about this on the John Bridges forum, it seems to say that the backer board should overhang the flange by a 1/4 inch - that is, the backer board is not level with the flange The backerboard should NOT overlap the flange, but rather come down right TO it. Otherwise, the flange will tend to push the bottom of the cement board out, rather than having the wall come straight down to the pan. Once the cement board is in place, before the tile goes in, fill that joint between the cement board and pan with whatever you like, so that the tile has some kind of backing behind it. Once that's done, install your tile. After the tile's installed, grout everything, including that last inch or so, as normal. I don't know who's telling you to overlap the flange by a 1/4". You want to give me the url to your thread?

I miss some threads the first time around so they look new shiny and new when someone bumps them. Didn't notice the old date. As far as contact points, it depends on the your base. If the shower pan is rock solid, then you can have something as basic as four easy points of contact, spaced as needed. If the mats are large, then wood flex could come into play. Intermediate points might be needed to prevent the mat from flexing. Acrylic/plastic bases are another animal. Ir can depend on how they are set. Some get well supported. Others don't. I'd really want to see the bottom of the base, they usually have some sort of a ribbed structure. I'd try to locate my pads over the ribbing instead of over an unsupported flat area. I hope that makes sense. I think when in doubt and when installing over a base that might flex, try to make your support pads a bit larger rather than smaller, or add more pads. And as a tip, I'll often make the mat, I'll make the pads, but I won't attach any support pads to the bottom of the mat. I place the unattached individual pads on the sloped shower pan where I think I want them. Then I place the mat over the pads. I check for rocking and rolling, and I'll adjust the location of the pads until the mat is level and well supported. If I can mark the locations, I'll do so. If not, I'll lift the mat, leaving the pads on the pan. I'll place double-sided tape on the pads. Then reset the mat, adhering the pads to the bottom of the mat. Then lift the entire thing out, mark the pad locations on the bottom of the mat, then properly attach them. Obviously with a custom fitted/supported mat you'll want to reset the mat with the same orientation each time after removal. It might be obvious due to the design, or you can mark the underside of the mat.

I suppose you could Redguard it and tile away. Nothing ventured, nothing gained. Personally, I would rebuild it....but you say that's not an option. We really don't know if there is a vinyl/rubber liner under the mudbed...nor do you, apparently....and a redguard membrane, if that is the case, is superfluous. At this point, just paint the stuff on and tile away. It may last awhile...it may last forever. You pays your money and you takes your chances....