Swanstone shower pan & tile walls

13 years ago

I am hoping some one can help me. I've been lurking here for a while, gathering ideas for my bathroom remodel. (Thanks everybody!) I've decided on a swanstone shower pan and tile walls. But I am confused about two issues: what to use to seat the pan and then how to get the grout in the tiles below the backerboard and over the flange.

I've read to use thinset mortar mix, gypsolite, or sandmix concrete. The current swanstone instructions say to use thinset mortar. Is there an advantage to using something else?

I am also confused about how (where) to set the pan. I thought the idea was that the tile did not touch the pan, so that if there was movement in the pan, it wouldn't impact the walls, and so that water would not wick up into the tile (grout, really, I guess) from the pan. The directions say that the pan has to be about 1/4 inch away from any wall, so that the backerboard will line up flush with the inside edge of the flange. But the directions are really to then attach the swanstone panels, not for tile.

If I install it like that, and then tile, the bottom of the tile ends up basically attached to the flange. When I read about this on the John Bridges forum, it seems to say that the backer board should overhang the flange by a 1/4 inch - that is, the backer board is not level with the flange, but juts forward a bit, and then the tile is set basically 1/4 inch in front of the flange, and does not actually touch the pan. If I do that, how do I get grout in between the joint for that last inch of tile?

Or am I completely confused?

I would be very grateful for any help anyone could give. There are a lot of great tile folks out here.

Thanks so much.

Sort by:Oldest

Comments (4)

bill_vincent
13 years ago
You can use anything you like to fill the gap behind the tile. Its only function is to back up the bottom of the tile so it can't be kicked and broken. Thinset is my usual "go to, but I've also used grout and sand mix on occasion.

I thought the idea was that the tile did not touch the pan,

No, the idea is that the pan flange comes up behind the tile, while a vapor barrier comes from behind the cement board, and in front of the lip (or the cement board gets a waterproofing membrane) so that all water stays in the pan. The caulk joint between the tile and the pan is what takes up the movement.

When I read about this on the John Bridges forum, it seems to say that the backer board should overhang the flange by a 1/4 inch - that is, the backer board is not level with the flange

The backerboard should NOT overlap the flange, but rather come down right TO it. Otherwise, the flange will tend to push the bottom of the cement board out, rather than having the wall come straight down to the pan. Once the cement board is in place, before the tile goes in, fill that joint between the cement board and pan with whatever you like, so that the tile has some kind of backing behind it. Once that's done, install your tile. After the tile's installed, grout everything, including that last inch or so, as normal.

I don't know who's telling you to overlap the flange by a 1/4". You want to give me the url to your thread?
clairesproject
Original Author
13 years ago
I think I am not explaining myself very well. The backerboard is 1/2 inch and the flange is 1/4 inch; because the backer board is thicker, it ends up sticking past the flange by just a bit under a quarter of an inch -- tiny gap between the studs and the pan. That is what I mean about the 1/4 of an inch overhang - not that it covers the flange.

The Swanstone instructions say to leave 1/2 inch between the backerboard and the pan. Is that the joint I should caulk? And if so, is the idea that the caulk sticks to the poly, the backerboard and the flange?

This is the thread that seems most similar to what I am doing:

http://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=21238

This one talks about furring out the studs so the backerboard comes over the flange:

http://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin/archive/index.php/t-48360.html

Here it talks about having the backerboard come over the flange:

http://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=43323
Related Discussions
Swanstone or equivalent shower pans
Q
Comments (19)
lil geek, If you want a tiled pan and you want to do it DIY, look into the Kerdi System by Schluter. Schluter makes a pre-sloped pan base, which is of excellent quality, and it's very easy to install. The pan and walls are then covered with Kerdi membrane, then the tile is thinsetted to the Kerdi. A Kerdi shower is well within the realm of DIY, the quality, in terms of water-tightness, and avoidance of future water saturation problems, is second-to-none. With the Kerdi membrane being just beneath the tile, there is no deep wetting of the substructure of the tile. There are installation picsutes available here, and if you look in the right column on the webisite page there are installation videos as well. Do not confuse or compare Schluter's pre-formed shower pan with other premade trays that people on this forum are gripping about. Unsupported, thin flimsy trays are a failure waiting to happen. The Kerdi line is nothing like that. Just another idea...but only consider doing this DIY if you can follow simple instructions, if you have basic skills, and you have enough intelligence to be smart enough to map out the steps to success before you start mixing thinset. The ability to think through a project ahead of time, step-by-step, from start to finish, before starting seems to be a rare skill these days. If you anticipate problems, then remarkably, you'll likely have no problems. What a concept! Mongo
...See More
Shower remodel, Swanstone and Kerdi Products
Q
Comments (9)
I have never used Kerdi products, but from what I've read in my research, there should be absolutely no problem using a Swanstone base in combination with them. I just have a question for you regarding your tiled bench. Have you sat on/tried a bench that is only 11.5" deep? I have a teak bench that is 12" deep and I just went and butted it up to my tile wall to see what that would feel like. It was quite uncomfortable for me, My back hit the tiled wall and the bench cut into my upper thighs. Now I know I have a big ...., but I would suggest you try it for yourself. I really like the flexibility of having a separate bench. I have used it outside the shower in front of my vanity, and I found I liked to move it more forward in the shower for shaving my legs. Just a thought...
...See More
Acrylic or Swanstone Shower Pan? Maybe Tile?
Q
Comments (10)
I just had a new shower installed...tiled walls and floor. It is important to use small tiles for the floor so that the pitch will allow proper drainage. You don't want to use anything bigger than 2"x2" tiles. I used 1"x1" tiles. Also, my tile guy used the "Schluter System" to install the floor and drain, which is a very water-tight method of doing a tile floor. The underlayment is key to a tiled shower floor. That is what seals out water & prevents leaks...not the tile itself. The Schluter System is a substitute for the tradtional mud pan, which can grow mold & acquire other issues over time. You can google it and find a demo on their website. There are die-hard, old-school mud pan tile installers who will refuse to go in this direction, but this Schluter method is becoming increasingly more popular, especially among younger tile installers who are open to new ideas. It's much faster to install, so tile guys like that, but for the homeowner it has outstanding waterproofing capabilites, so everyone wins. I will say, if you want to go this route, it is important to find an installer with some experience installing the system. As with anything, there is a learning curve at first, so you need a person who has installed a number of them. Good luck with your decision! Wish I could send you my tile guy...he's wonderful!
...See More
Replace Shower Pan w/ Tub; Drop it in and leave tiled walls as is?
Q
Comments (1)
A picture would help :)
...See More
bill_vincent
13 years ago
You can fir the studs out, if you'd rather, but I prefer to just bring the cement board down to the top of the flange. It's just as good, and alot less hassle, and cost to the homeowner. In your case, it's be alot less hassle to YOU, being you're DIYing it.

As for the cement board sticking out past the flange, that's fine. The resulting gap would be filled with thinset, grout, or sand mix (whichever's easiest for you). The tile would then be installed as usual, and then the resulting joint between the tile itself and the pan, would be caulked.
Diet_T
12 years ago
I realize this is an old thread but I thought I would put my two cents into the mix. I have set a neo-angle Swanstone shower floor in thinset and put up Hardiebacker, according to the instructions, leaving a 1/2 inch gap above shower floor flange (to prevent wicking). I then applied Laticrete WaterTight Floor-N-Wall over the Hardiebacker before I installed the tile with thinset. I think I will apply glass fiber tape over the 1/2 inch gap and apply multple layers of the WaterTight membrane to cove the gap. I think this will make it so I can apply grout to the verticle gaps between the lowest row of tiles. I then will apply silicone caulk to horizontal border of shower floor flange and tile.

Swanstone shower pan & tile walls

Comments (4)

bill_vincent

clairesproject
Original Author

Related Discussions

bill_vincent

Diet_T

COMPANY

BUSINESS SERVICES

GET HELP

CONNECT WITH US

Swanstone shower pan & tile walls

Comments (4)

bill_vincent

clairesprojectOriginal Author

Related Discussions

bill_vincent

Diet_T

COMPANY

BUSINESS SERVICES

GET HELP

CONNECT WITH US

clairesproject
Original Author