I was just reading what Consumers Reports has to say about how long to keep these things--check out the latest issue on the newsstand. But I've checked into several sources on the web, including Suzie Orman's site--there's no "right" list--they all seem to vary a bit. One thing that Consumers said: Keep your pay stubs until your W2 form comes, then "reconcile" it. I have no idea how or why--maybe to total up state and income taxes paid already? I've never done that. Utility bills, I keep for a year. Some sources say you can ditch them after you pay the bill, and also, if you do any online bill paying with the utilities, they have your payments on file for a while. One useful thing about having a year's worth of utility bills somewhere, paper or online, is that they can come in handy when you want to sell your home and need to provide an average utility cost for heat, water, electricity on the real estate property listing ad. Also, they can give you a quick visual if you're thinking of paying the budget route--where your personal costs are averaged out and you pay the same amount each month. Home Depot receipts? Are you talking about new windows or a new power drill? Staple them to the warranty booklets. Anything less, reconcile with your credit card bill if you charged them, shove them in a Ziploc bag and store them a secondary storage place for 6 months or so in case somethng breaks and then toss them afterward. Also, the Consumers magazine also had an item about what you should store in your safety deposit box, if you have one at the bank. Social Security card, passport, car title, original insurance documents were among them, and many others. Worth looking at! I tend to keep my credit-card statements a few years longer than most people. I find that I'm occasionally wondering where I bought something from, framing supplies, for example, and a quick look at the statements reminds me which website had what I was looking for. For all my papers, I have a closet that stretches far back, and in it I have, in the front, a set of 2 stacked rolling filing bins, for the current year. Stuff that I know I want to keep longer goes in a cardboard file box that gets pushed to the back of the closet. (Also in that closet is a metal shelving piece holding all my stationery supplies, some fabric, craft supplies, my computer warranty and related documents and extra cords [in a large Ziploc]). So documents are all in the same space, but divided between what I really need more frequently and stuff I want to hold onto just in case!

I have used a handheld one I picked up at HD, heavy duty one, but depends on what part of the chair you will be stapling too and if it's solid wood. if solid wood, I've had most of the stables not completely sink in and had to go back with a small hammer. I like the one I have now that attaches to the air compressor!

Thank you so much for these ideas and the technical terms ! I wasn't even sure what to google other than 'hinge' which returns a bazillion results, lol. Yes, inboard of the pivot point is the problem I was trying to explain. If I have to overlay the excess not centered to the opening, I will. But that takes my mirror further to the left than I wanted to be (hinge will be on the right). Ideally, the excess would be to the right, on the same side as the hinge, with just a little overlay on the left. When I googled 'overlay partial wrap hinge', I also found these hinges. I think the plate would have to be mounted on the face of the sheetrock, with longer screws that would go thru the sheetrock and screw into the studs, but would these work ??? It looks like they would allow the mirror to have a very large overlay on the right and also the hinge would be hidden. http://www.hardwaresource.com/hinges/cabinet-hinges/blum-european-hinges-grass-european-hinges/blum-compact-33-hinges-and-mounting-plates/blum-compact-33-face-mount-plate http://www.hardwaresource.com/hinges/cabinet-hinges/blum-european-hinges-grass-european-hinges/blum-compact-33-hinges-and-mounting-plates/compact-33-hinges I see the hinge is supposed to be inserted into a drilled out cup. Vice versa, could the face plate be mounted on the mirror, and the hinge cup be drilled into the sheetrock ? Would the hinge still open correctly ? The reason I ask, is because I am not sure what material the frame of the mirror is made from and also if it is deep enough to allow me to drill the cup. Lateral hinges I think would not work, for the same reason as the drawer glides mounted sideways - I don't *think* there would be enough room. We're down at the beach house right now (our last guest broke the side rail on one of the bunk beds and we're here fixing it, no idea what they were doing to break the rail lengthwise all the way from end to end!! kids jumping on the bed I would guess), but I can measure for that idea when we get home tomorrow.

Tar paper is the underlayment of choices according to the various cedar shingle associations. Tyvec works well too. That said, that is not a good location to learn the cedar siding trade and is best left to a contractor (not a painter) http://www.cedarbureau.org/installation/sidewall-installation-manual/ Underlayment - The CSSB recommends No. 30 felt (ASTM D226 Type II or ASTM D4869 Type IV) underlayment material. Apply it horizontally, with a staple gun, starting at the base of the wall, with a 2" horizontal overlap with each succeeding course, and a 6" overlap vertically when starting a new roll. Wrap the felt underlayment 4" each way around both inside and outside corners