Thanks so much for the feedback! It seems there are two schools of thought: keep it simple b/c there's already a lot going on vs. add extra table etc. I'm still waffling about the shelf, myself! :-) I like the idea of adding a mirror because it will probably help to brighten the space. Also, I could easily check how I look (or whatever) before heading out instead of running down to the bathroom (nearest mirror). Re: the tape--> It's the blue tape from when they textured and painted the wall. I would take it off except we need to re-texture part of it again. teacats--> which wall are you referring to--the wall closest to the door or the wall more recessed from the front door (I think the first wall I see is the recessed wall)? I COMPLETELY agree about the clock. I've never found anything I like so I just keep the old clock. Also, a bigger clock would be easier to read :-) mjlb--> you're right about all the moulding etc; I'm looking for a cheap fix though, so painting out the doors is probably what I'll do for now. We do have to replace the closet door b/c it has a hole in it so that will be the time for the moulding. All our old interior door mouldings match the closet but whoever put in the new front and garage doors changed it. evaperconti--> I like your idea about the console table w/bench underneath and a chair by the door. I've been scanning Craigslist but, so far, nothing. Plant won't work, unfortunately, but I could try for some other vertical element. So many great ideas!!! You guys have given me a lot to think about and helped me to see the entry a little differently. Thanks so much :-)

Sophie Wheeler, you are wrong about the box bay window needing a foundation. It will have an internal seat measurement of 18 or 19" (which is actually useful) and all of this has already been confirmed by a contractor. So, that idea is not an issue. I'm not here to discuss the window. I'm asking for help understanding how I can do a similar idea with a closet type space. geoffrey - thanks. I know I can do a cantilevered bump-out, but I was trying to find out if something on kickers like the box bay window seat is possible. Vith- I don't know the wall colour, sorry.

@benjesbride Yes, the 11'1" will be open to the dining room area(once we knock down that portion of the wall). On the other side of that 3'5" wall is just space that belongs to the living room.. And the the door on the 10'6" wall near the bump is the entrance to the kitchen from the hallway.. The second door should have been removed, sorry for the confusion. It's really a shallow pantry (12") with bifold doors that we're going to close off in order to place cabinets besides the fridge. You're right in that it is tight.. It's not showing on the rendering, but I wanted the island counter to be 3'X6' including the one foot overhang. The space between the island to the bump will be 3'7"... the space between the island and dishwasher is 3'3" and, island to oven is 3'1. I read that minimum passageways through a kitchen is 3' so I was hoping it would work? @mayflowers I'll have to check if it's feasible to move the stove over, since the hood vent will also have to move. That would be ideal though.. If I couldn't move the stove over, would it still be better to still reduce pantry width to at least have longer counter space between the stove and fridge? @emilyam819 here is a drawing with the island rotated.. I left about 3' between island and counters.. and you can see it's quite tight with that bump in the wall. Foregoing seating would make it work, but I really wanted to have seating. @dyhgarden Your kitchen is gorgeous! I love the clean, white look you have going on (this is what I also hope to achieve); it looks so roomy with your high ceilings not to mention that entire wall of built-ins! The patisserie stand is a really nice touch as well. I really like that it's free standing and so I wouldn't have to make holes in my backsplash :) Is your backsplash a hexagon pattern? Thank you so much for sharing!

So, I took a look..and I do have some concerns, especially if you try to fit a 48"D island into your space. Your space just isn't wide enough to have that deep an island + decent aisles + space to move around the island. Even a 41.5"D island is marginal. A few things have to be taken into account in your design: (1) You definitely need to have enough room for multiple cooks: "We're a family of four. Two kids, one 5 and one 10. Wife and I both love to cook and share the responsibility equally. Kids will also help out in the kitchen and our oldest loves to bake by herself." This means your aisles really need to be a minimum of 48". It also means you need to have more than one place to prep and, preferably, a water source in at least two locations so you're not fighting over the sink. (Add in someone trying to cleanup or load/unload the DW while others are prepping/cooking, and you're asking for trouble -- especially when your kids are in preteen + teen! (Trust me on this!) (2) Busy traffic in the Kitchen. The Kitchen is in the middle of the path between the Family Room and the Dining Room and, I think, between the entrance (far left) and the rest of the house -- including the stairs that I assume go upstairs to the bedrooms. That area is going to be busy. So, You need adequate aisles to allow considerable traffic + table seating and considerable traffic + island seating. Do not skimp on aisle space (or seating space)! You need a minim of 48" between the island and anything behind the seats (e.g., the stairs). More would be better, but your Kitchen isn't deep enough. (3) Island configuration: Since you need the minimum aisle widths (48") around the island, you cannot fit a 48" deep island. Instead, have a 3 seats along the back and one on the side. Is it ideal, no, but it's better than most I've seen. Your island is then 41.5" deep: 1.5" counter overhang in the front + 24" deep base cabinet + 1" decorative door/end panel on the back of the base cabinets + 15" seating overhang = 41.5" In addition, each seats need 24" of linear space, so only one seat will fit on the 41.5" long side --and-- you cannot overlap seats on a corner, so even skimping on linear space won't work. For 3 seats, that means you need 72" (6'). Your minimum island needs to be 72"W x 41.5"D For your Kitchen size: From what I was able to calculate, it appears the longest part of your Kitchen is no more than 116" + 71" + 19.5" = 206.5" [Note: The 19.5" measurement might not be right, I had to base it on what I saw elsewhere b/c a couple of key measurements were missing on your layout.] The stairs encroach on that, so where the island ends, it's a bit less than 149" The minimum space you need is: 25.5" + 48" + 41.5" = 115" and then add in 33" to accommodate the needed the space b/w the stairs and island = 148" [Why 33" and not 48"? This can be a bit complicated...the stairs are on a diagonal, so a straight line measurement doesn't work. Instead, I had to work with rotated lines to calculate what was necessary to accommodate a 48-inch aisle. If it's too complicated or I didn't explain it well, don't worry about it...you'll see the results in the layouts.] . Layouts.... With all of the above in mind, I came up with two layouts -- I like #1 the best b/c I think it gives you the best functionality, more workspace, and a more open feel. Both have two Prep Zones: (1) in the island with a prep sink and (2) on the perimeter b/w the cleanup sink and range. As you can see, Layout #1 has more space b/w the range and cleanup sink. The sink run of counters and cabinets are 3" deeper than standard. This gives you more storage (especially dish storage) and and deeper workspace. It also pulls the sink 3" farther from the window and window sill so you can easily fit any faucet, clean behind it easier, and minimize window splashing -- without being too far from the window to open it. The base cabinets are 27" deep (If you cannot get deeper base cabinets or they're too expensive, pull standard depth base cabinets (24"D) out from the wall 3" when they're installed.) The upper cabinets are 15" deep (Most lines now offer 15" deep uppers for a reasonable price) The deeper uppers also provide better storage for deeper items like platters or large dinner plates. The counter is 28.5" deep The deeper cabinets & counter also allow you to have a Dish Hutch. A Dish Hutch has a lot more storage than a standard base + upper setup. The upper goes down to the counter and, allows you to utilize the entire height for dishes, glasses, etc. In your layout, it's a 27" wide Dish Hutch. (That means you have an additional 27"W x 18" tall x 15"D = 7,290 cubic inches (about 4.2 cubic feet) of storage.) Other items: The island has a prep sink so the island can function as a Prep Zone (key Prep Zone items are water and counterspace). There's still plenty of open space for baking, doing homework, science projects, crafts, wrapping gifts, etc. The island also seats four people comfortably. Dish storage and the Cleanup Zone are outside the Prep and Cooking Zones -- allowing you to have multiple people working in the Kitchen -- prepping, cooking, baking, cleaning up, unloading the DW, setting the table, etc. -- without getting in each others' way. The MW is on the long counter at the "bottom" of the Kitchen. That space also makes a nice Snack/Tea/Coffee Center and, if necessary, a "tertiary" Prep Zone. While there isn't direct access to water, it can be used in a pinch for prepping. That long space also has additional storage space for pantry items or other needs. I suggest building up the half-wall b/w the Family Room and the Kitchen to at least 42" tall to allow a bit of separation and to block a direct view of the MW (assuming you put it there -- that seems to be the best location. It's at a usable height and has room around it for landing space. The both have a full-height 18" pullout pantry and, in front of the furnace exhaust bumpout, a full-height shelved pantry cabinet 18"W x 9"D. A lot will fit in that 9" deep pantry cabinet! Layout #2 has a 9" Utility cabinet (or another pantry cabinet). The Dining Room In Layout #1 has a partial banquette style -- one long side and one short side are in the corner. The other seats are chairs. It easily seats up to 6. If you have leaves, you might be able to squeeze in a couple more seats, but only if/when really needed b/c it will create aisle/traffic issues. There is plenty of space around the table for seat access. This layout allows you to move the Refrigerator to the other side of the furnace exhaust bumpout. This frees up space to the right for needed counterspace. (This is the primary reason I prefer this layout. It's worth losing the 9" wide utility cabinet -- at least to me.) In Layout #2, the Refrigerator will not fit on the left of the furnace exhaust bumpout, so the amount of counterspace around the range is significantly reduced. To fit the table, there are minimal aisles on the left (36") and top (35"). However, they are not "through aisles", so they should be OK. You'll have to do a bit of squeezing, but with only 4 people, it won't be bad. The important aisles are wide enough. Here they are: Layout #1: Layout #1's Zone Map: . . Layout #2 Layout #2's Zone Map: