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Feasibility of bump-out closet/pantry. Is this even possible?

9 years ago

Hello!

In my upcoming kitchen remodel, I will be losing my pantry space. In an effort to find somewhere to make up for that lost space, I had the idea to make a "bump-out" type of closet and I'm wondering if you can tell me if it's realistic.

There is a 38" space between the corner of one wall and the window. I'm hoping to carve out some space here. (The space between the current peninsula, which will be gone and the window) Ideally, I'd like it to function like a normal pantry cabinet, where I can install pull out drawers.

Like this: (There will be a cabinet door on it, flush with the wall. or maybe just proud of the wall, don't know yet)

That window will be changed out to a box bay window seat like this:

So, I'm wondering if I can do a pop out that will stay under the 20" eaves like the window will?

Here are some pics from the outside:

Is this possible? What's involved?

Does anyone have a ball park idea of cost?

Thank you so much for any insight you can provide! I appreciate any help you can offer.

Featured Answer

geoffrey_b

9 years ago

Someone could build a cantilevered bump out. Then you could order a custom size cabinet to go into the opening. It might look odd from the outside.

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Comments (13)

User
9 years ago
last modified: 9 years ago
You will need to pour a foundation, frame walls, insulate, and roof just like the box bay will require. (You do not have adequate overhang to do the box as you envision.) Looks like you'll also need to reroute gutters and demolish and rebuild the deck. In for a penny, in for a pound. 7-15K for both projects together. Depends on location and how deep the foundation will have to be.

I don't think it will be attractive. It will be pretty ugly from the exterior in fact. Nor will it give you very much storage by the time the framing is done.
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ainelane
Original Author
9 years ago
Thank you for replying GreenDesigns.

No, the box bay window will not need a foundation or any changes to roof, gutters or deck. It will look exactly like the photo I posted, which shows how it is supported by kickers/brackets. The photo I attached is from a kitchen forum member named Scrappy25 who has the same 20" eave overhang, so it will look the same. I already got an estimate for $6000 (cdn) for that part.

So, considering it's possible to do the window seat without all the construction work mentioned, I'm wondering specifically about the feasibility of the pantry space. Can it be supported the same way? Can I go to the same depth as the box bay window and add insulation and still be left with 15-18" depth for pull outs or shelves? How will the top of the bump out be handled? (I'm not too concerned about looks as it's in a corner of the deck, will hardly be visible once the new box bay window goes in.)

Any further thoughts, help or guidance from anyone?
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Jillius* You are amazing - you are coming up with some great options to consider: - I'm overstating here, but there's a little knot in my stomach about giving up the built in cabinet of the family room and the pantry. I have a lot of stuff for entertaining in the built in and I'm a bit of a over-buyer for pantry staples. The knot could actually be that I'm hungry because I didn't have time for lunch today. =) There is probably plenty of space in this galley layout but I would have to map it out. - The flow to get to the deck requires a long walk around the longer half wall. One of my original goals was to move the entrance to the family room north so there was more of a direct line to the sliding door to the deck. This moves the path to the sliding door even further. Sorry - I was holding out on this goal and that isn't fair! - The 30 inch counters will give my plenty of prep space, but a galley layout (is that what you would say the option w/the prep area to the south would be called?) seems to serve the purpose of a functional kitchen and pass through space versus a center of our main level. - Giving up the kitchen table, could be the problem my existing kitchen table - it is probably too big for the space (42x60 oval) - by the time you add chairs and keep it away from the wall for the 4th seat, it is "in the way". If I downsize to a more appropriate size then it just feels like an afterthought or a dinky table just to have one that is permanently part of the landscape. If island seating doesn't work out, I'd rather give up seating in the kitchen and just have all meals in the dining room. A coworker sent me this link today, maybe this is a design option: Pull out tables - 4 foot bump out - I'll attach some photos in the next post, but basically, the aesthetics of the backyard - both a hypothetical wall closing off part of the deck and a ceiling above the patio with a pillar of some sort means the look & feel of the backyard will be just different and maybe not look "natural" - instead we have this bolt-on part of the house that looks funky. Jenn *I accidentally referred to you as "Amanda" in the last response - I got confused with Huango. Sorry about that.
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Ok. Let me try this again. I have color-coded the drawing to help explain what I am asking. What I am trying to accomplish is to have the benefit of extra space without totally removing the load-bearing wall. With the island I would like to put in, I won't have a wide enough walkway if I line the load-bearing wall with cabinets. However, I was thinking that I might be able to keep the support from the load-bearing wall, place a pantry, closets or cabinets around the supports for that wall, and create a non-load bearing wall behind it. Sort of bumping the wall back without losing the structural integrity it provides and without the cost of removing it, especially because I would need to put up another wall between the dining room and kitchen, even if it is not as long. Otherwise, there is nowhere to put the fridge. This means I would lose some space in the dining room, but we don't use it more than 1-2/times per year. I am attaching some photos of my very ugly current kitchen to give you a better idea of the current layout. At this point, I am wondering if this idea has any merit before I move into other floor plans for the space. I really, really want the big island but am not sure if it is feasible. 1. View from dining room into kitchen: view from front hallway near stairway 3.kitchen from family room 4. view of load-bearing wall from kitchen toward the dining room 5. another view of load-bearing wall 6. from garage entrance into kitchen 8.from bay window area toward load-bearing wall If there are other views you would like to see, please let me know.
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User
9 years ago
Can you post an interior picture of your entire kitchen. Just curious to see the entire space.
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User
9 years ago
Lots of money makes anything possible. Even bad ideas. Walls have thicknesses to them, which you're forgetting, and the only way to have either of your ideas be deep enough internally to be actually useful is to do a real bump out with foundation. However because of the roofline, you need on site professional design help to integrate it. Just a big blob jutting out of the house with some off centered windows is going to look like the amateur design mistake that it really is.
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Vith
9 years ago
last modified: 9 years ago
Custom cabinet/shelving inside would be more feasible. What color yellow is in your kitchen/dining room?
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ainelane
Original Author
9 years ago
Sophie Wheeler, you are wrong about the box bay window needing a foundation. It will have an internal seat measurement of 18 or 19" (which is actually useful) and all of this has already been confirmed by a contractor. So, that idea is not an issue.

I'm not here to discuss the window. I'm asking for help understanding how I can do a similar idea with a closet type space.

geoffrey - thanks. I know I can do a cantilevered bump-out, but I was trying to find out if something on kickers like the box bay window seat is possible.

Vith- I don't know the wall colour, sorry.
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geoffrey_b
9 years ago
Anyone could band saw those 'kickers' as you call them.

The point is that it needs to be framed with 2x4's, insulated, and dry walled.

So if you wanted an 18" wide cabinet, the outside of of the bump out would be 8" wider ( 2 x 3 1/2 + 2 x 1/2 sheet rock).
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Vith
9 years ago
last modified: 9 years ago
The problem with the bumpout window as shown is that it is on a load bearing wall, and it will require a header above the window and a header BELOW the window to support the bumpout. Along with the proposed pantry (which should really include the entire space from the window to the corner to be useable and also it does not look odd from the exterior), those are fairly long headers, and you more than likely need extra vertical load support for the headers.

So basically, the contractor cant just rig this up without an engineered plan.
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User
9 years ago
last modified: 9 years ago
The "contractor"has already fudged on the math to the OP. He'll get creative and rig up some more numbers as well.
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User
9 years ago
"to make up for that lost space,"

How about a window seat banquette with cabinets on both sides of the window?
User
9 years ago
No, it's not really feasible.
my_four_sons
9 years ago
It sounds expensive and unattractive from the outside. What are you planning for dining space? As lazy gardens mentions, could you have 2 tall pantry cabinets flanking the window and forming a u-banquette?
0

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