Induction cooktop and Chinese/Wok cooking
14 years ago
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- 14 years ago
- 14 years ago
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Venting for Chinese/Wok induction cooking
Comments (1)Resisting my normal urge to prolixity, you need: o An island style hood that overlaps the cooking parts of all pans and woks by some amount (see below). o A suitable sized duct system so that the air velocity in the ducting is in the 1000 - 2000 feet per minute range. o A blower that can pull enough air to achieve about 3 feet per second velocity through the collection area of the hood. (Depending on the hood configuration, the collection area may be at the hood aperture, or farther up in the hood.) o Possibly a make-up air system. When cooking on induction, only the cooking food effluent is a consideration, not gas combustion. The effluent rises from the pan and expands as it rises. The expansion half angle varies, but is in the 20 to 25 degree angle range. This means that the higher you put the hood, the larger the hood has to be and the more susceptible the rising effluent is to being displaced by cross drafts. On the other hand, island hoods are large and deep, and may be inconvenient to use if lower than one's head height. A sketch of the cooktop and cook drawn front on and side view allows one to draw the effluent expansion limits and see where the hood has to extend to capture most of it. Once the hood is selected, then the blower cfm can be defined. If the hood is lowered below the eye level, then sight lines should also be drawn to assure that all of the pans can be viewed. There is a lot of writing on this subject in this forum that a search should turn up. I spent as much time researching exhaust ventilation and make-up air as I did researching the kitchen layout, design, appliances, and cabinets. kas...See MoreRound-bottom wok on flat induction cooktop
Comments (3)Cool experiment. It would be great if you can post pictures of each of these. I've often thought about getting a dedicated wok hob but don't want to spend the money without trying it first. To me, wok cooking = gas so it's hard to make the leap. Here's another candidate for you review: http://www.amazon.com/Lodge-Pro-Logic-14-Inch-Cast-Iron-Handles/dp/B00063RXQK I assume this is the one you got: http://www.amazon.com/Demeyere-Apollo-14-2-Inch-Wok/dp/B000GT44IO A head to head competition of these two would be quite interesting since there's such a price difference. The Demeyere seems to have a very impressive boil time but I'm not sure I can live with the shiny SS finish. I'd get seriously mocked by my wok using friends. :)...See MoreWok cooking--no gas, no wok. How?
Comments (20)Fori, I don't lift my wok to go anywhere when I'm stir-frying. Instead, I use my long handled wok scooper to dish each layer out of the wok, which rests on a platter while I cook the next. Sometimes I lift the platter to the edge of the wok while I scoop the contents into that, if the pieces are eluding me. It all goes into the wok for a final warm-up at the end, but not for very long. As I often par-boil some of my vegetables like broccoli, I use the wet paper towel they dry on to clean the wok between each layer of food I cook. I agree that you can't get a cast iron wok too hot to cook in, although you can cook your ingredients too long so they overcook. Cooking the dish in layers keeps the wok from cooling down, and everything sears well. I personally wouldn't cook in a porcelain enameled wok if I had to worry about the coating, since hotter is better in this case. I still have the mentality that you wrap the pan in flame so it stays hot. I agree with you completely!...See MoreWok cooking on AEG induction wok hob
Comments (25)Mains voltage in the UK is 230 Vac (50 Hz). 3200W/230 = 13.9A, rms. There is a bit of ambiguity with respect to the actual volt-amperes of what may be a fairly inductive load and whether this 3200W is the available power for transfer to the pan, or the actual mains load. Given the label I would assume that it is the drawn power. This gets us to the design of UK circuit breakers or even fuses. In the US, they have an actuation time vs. load. Also there is a requirement in our electrical code for not overloading circuits by more than 80%. This leads to my suggestion that the breaker or fuse be 20A, assuming that the wiring is at least 12 AWG between the outlet and the breaker box to allow this size breaker or fuse. (I understand that in the UK, fuses may also be found in the appliance plug, so that should be inspected.) There is also the consideration of in-rush power that the breaker has to tolerate, so operating the unit on a breaker close to its nominal draw risks unnecessary breaker resets. If I lived in the UK, and I didn't have a copy of the necessary code [BSA 666 perhaps? :-) ], I would consult with an electrician....See More- 14 years ago
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