Several GWer's mentioned the Hot Pepper Wax Spray, being it's organic.. and I just picked some up today at Willow Tree here in St Pete... she got in a case of it so has more there... I also got the last Dill plant and she put several cats on it to bring home, I also picked up Fennel, and several other Butterfly plants.... I'm going to see how the Hot Pepper Spray works on the chili-thrips on my pink Knock-out roses ( also on Belinda's Dream, they seem to like pink !).... sally

If your sure the old floors have wax on them and your just want to make them lok better untill u get them refinished rent a buffer and when u do ask them to also give you a soft pad to go on the bottomw of the buffer. Take the wax and buff it on with one pad and then with another go back and buff it off. read the directions some waxes are diffrent but that will shine them up untill you get them redone

Hi Kathrine. It seems like you are well on your way to a solution already, but I would like to clear some of the fog. First, I would like to address oil and wax finishes. Although they do produce a decent finish, they take forever to cure, they will need to be renewed eventually, and they offer little to no protection (when compared to a film finish). In a kitchen, durability is usually the big concern and pure tung oil simply doesnt have a place there. Now if you have a nice antique hall table that you dont mind babying, tung oil and wax could be a good choice. But with the amazing array of beautiful finish options available today, its hard to believe tung oil (and boiled linseed oil), still find their way into our homes. That being said, I am glad you went with the Waterlox. Despite the incorrect information Minwax gave you, Waterlox is not all that different from a wiping polyurethane. Waterlox actually contains little to no tung oil at all. It does, however, contain a resin that is derived from oil and is a close relative to polyurethane. Many woodworkers like this particular resin better because it is less "plastic-looking" than standard polyurethane. So what you have actually done is exactly what I would have recommended: you top-coated your tung oiled surface with a wiping varnish. This varnish will give your cabinets the protection they need from oil, grease, heat, water, and cleaning agents. A level of protection that tung oil cannot provide. And one note to the folks who were discussing "food-safe" finishes. Nearly all film finishes are food safe once cured. If you are a bit skeptical, there are FDA-approved varnishes available (usually labelled salad bowl finish), that will offer much more protection and durability than oil and wax. I apologize for the blitz of information. If anyone has any questions, please feel free to ask away. Marc

Sorry that happened, but now that you know better, check out Scentsy plug-in warmers (now called night lights). Yes, the wax HAS to melt to release the fragrance. And it won't disappear because you're not "burning" anything, just releasing fragrance. Scensty is formulated to warm at a lower temperature than other bargain fragrance wax cubes. You can stick your fingers in it, pour it on yourself, it won't hurt children or pets. Does the ceramic warmer get hot to the touch? Yes. That's why you use the base to put it out of the wall. LOVE this stuff. I'm totally addicted and have a yummy smelling house all the time. No candles, no soot, no breathing carcinogens, no flames. To find a consultant in your location you can go to www.scentsy.com and click on "find consultant". Oh, only put one cube in a plug-in size warmer. To remove melted wax from carpets or clothing, put a paper bag over the area and use a hot iron on top of the sack to transfer the wax and color. Keep moving the sack till no more wax transfers to the sack. Sometimes, if the color is dark enough, there may still be some colorant stain.