Thanks Mongo. I did use the Ditra set last time and I loved it.

For the modified thinset, is this one that can be mixed with water or should it be an additive?

I expect this application to have a much greater failure potential than the last area that was above a finished space. This house is open and shut numerous times during the year and sees very large temperature swings.

Also, as the area in front of the front door is just a small "cut out" of the floor, the only product I am aware of to bridge the wood to the tile is the one linked below. It's going to be 1/2" engineered hardwood, so I was planning on using the regular Ditra.
Are there other options worth considering?

If I have time to plan, maybe I will finally get to make a little mosaic in the floor- this all snuck up on us.

Here is a link that might be useful: Schluter Floor profiles

A Modified thinse is exactly that....MODIFIED and requires nothing more than water to mix. Use No liquid modifiers.

Ok, yeah, I was thinking of something else. I did read somewhere someone used additive with Ditraset but I will just get another bag. (I love Ditraset- it spreads like butter for me)

Preferred modified thinset? I used Versabond in the past. It was ok.

I think I will end up using urethane caulk for the transition joint.

5 hours of reading and I think I have it put together again. Been 2 years since I picked up a trowel. I have missed it!

So glad I found this thread. I’m doing the exact same install, except matching floor height to a 3/4 hardwood. What’s the thickness of the thinset layers applied under the Ditra and under the tile? I was using 1/8” for each in my calcs but I’m seeing very very thin soupy spreads for thinset under Ditra in videos so I’m a bit unsure. Thanks for any help.

Follow the DITRA manual to a T. Dryset mortars and a schluter ditra trowel. Only after you meet TCNA Deflection ratings and proper plywood specs for the TILE you intend to install. Almost always need 2 layers of EXP 1 Plywood..

Not sure what kind of transition you are making. from joist to floor? one room to another?

if you already have appropriate subfloor to support the tile, you can just fill in with a sheet of ply (screwed only to the ply below not all the through to the joist)

the info w Ditra will give you the specs for finished thickness when correctly installed i do not recall it now- that should help calculations

Gotcha, deflection is good. Existing single 5/8 layer of ply subfloor w joists 16” OC. Laying Ditra and 9mm porcelain tile.

I’m matching levels to a hallway of 5/8 subfloor + 1/8 underlayment + 3/4 hardwood top floor. Pretty much I’m working up to 1.5”.

I’ll check the Ditra specs! …not sure if I’ll need the Ditra XL (3/16)

Schluter also makes good transitions for floors

I have had such raging success with it, amateur that I am, and odd locations, not a crack in the grout or tiles in over a decade as well as this install which is in a house that has temp swings of 100° seasonally

good luck

Nice will dig into it! Thx again for revisiting this one

sinlge layer 5/8 !!!! good luck

Im reading 5/8” min is up to spec. What’s the most likely risk?

….that’s also a Ditra spec for plywood subfloor

suggest you get A TCNA manual and find the "Method number" that reflects your structure and start there.

1.25" subfloor/underlayment is industry standard for tile. again EXP 1 ply.w B grade face.

* Ditra adds Zero to the structural strength of your actual deflection Rating. which is a calculated number.

If a single layer of 3/4 were adequate it would require either T&G exp1 or that every seam is crossblocked at the joists.

Subfloors and underlayment standards come from from TCNA and ANSI. Not schluters manual.

Lastly id stick to industry publications for standards and best practices. HOuzz is just to full of armchair pros mis-advising people daily. so be careful w interwebbers.

Best of luck.