These are my pics of my countertops placed Friday June 22, 2018. I cried looking at these seams. It looks so cheap. Fabricator explains that's the way it comes. I explained that I shouldn't be able to see the seams so clearly. It looks so unprofessional. They ended up taking them back to their warehouse. In hopes they say if it is quality control will try and fix it just to make it look better. Otherwise I will have to pay an additional fee for them to come out again to install. I just don't know what to do and if still looks the same. This is the first time I've replaced my counters in 24 years. I don't and can't live with it. looking at this for another 24 years. It looks so cheap and it really was not it's a lot of money to me. I hope fingers crossed that they will fix this problem. They never told me that there would be such seams. I thought the edges were done by a machine and it would be all one piece. I have read up on this and now understand there are seams. But now I do know that they should not look like this. If they are good fabricator you shouldn't be able to see them so clearly. I will find out next week what happens.

you are all such a great wealth of advice. I'll shop and give a couple of tries to different ideas. I did have a thought about having the carpenter build me a shelf type space between the onyx and the door opening (which would be about 4" deep). I could then lay the ropes right on that shelf and they wouldn't be in the way. This of course will make my carpenter crazy... Bodacia....thanks for sharing the heat issues (or lack there of) of the lighting you posted. It's so hard to find cooler lighting for under counter areas. I can't do anything that's hard wired in because frankly...I'm out of spaces in the box LOL and if the artist doing my son's room (where the box is) is asked to move a monkey or lion so I can cut hole in their walls...well they'd probably hurt me more than my carpenter will want to when we talk about a shelf for the onyx cabinet LOL It is honey onxy in 2cm thickness. Honey was the only onyx that I could do for a slab over 3' deep without additional support (the reds are to die for...but cn't span an area that far). It was important to me to not have lines running down the legnth of the onyx because they'd show when back lit. I tell you...between designing a safari tent, a crocdile shower, chicken haven, and this freaking cabinet....I'm designed out :oP And have just one more house to finish LOL And mommy??? That's you right? I hope you've packed some woolies. It's been snowing and it's a mess of slush and goober outside!!! Oh and I sure hope you love monkeys :oP You'll see why soon!!! (the mommy 1 is my mother who rarely posts unless I really inspire her with some crazy idea LOL) Smooches mommy!!! Pharoah....you've inspired me you know :) Your kitchen onyx made me sick with envy LOL I just had to have onyx somewhere in this new house. I can't wait to show how wonderful it is in our room. It flows so well with the work the artist did on the walls (in a soft bronze leather finish) and the antique lighting. I just won't do it today because I have a purple (temporary) bedspread on the bed LOL and it's a horrible combination LOL

"I don't know how much variance there normally is on the sink install- should it be completely flush all around, or are there slight imperfections? There's really just one corner that is completely flush, the rest is "mostly" flush. Should I press to have this fixed, I don't know if it's possibly to fix it with the sink installed? I just did an oval undermount vanity cutout by hand and I'm sure there are "slight" imperfections. If the hole was cut with a CNC machine, there will be none, but the reveal is up to the homeowner discretion. The sink can be reinstalled by abandoning the fixed mechanical fasteners they've probably used and installing it with a Hercules Universal Sink Harness (Braxton Bragg). "Same with the side- do you normally custom- cut the granite to your space or just leave slight variances and cover it with caulk?" The reveal should be the same all the way around. There should be no "covering it with caulk". "Are all the bullnoses made in the same way- will I have the same problem with the granite sticking out too far with a different piece of granite, or did I just get a remnant that doesn't work well with my space?" No, you got an idiot templater. You could have them rip off the right end, but that may knock your sink off center. They could rip off the overhanging left end, reprofile and polish the edge which would not affect the sink center. "Should the granite have been sealed again, I don't think they did any kind of sealer at installation." Insist they bring a quality sealer and seal it in front of you. It will take a minute and a half and .50 worth of sealer. "I'm not wanting to be a difficult customer, not sure if I should insist on starting over or just live with it." You aren't being difficult. I would die of embarrassment if someone posted a picture of my job overhanging a wall like that. Have they no pride?

Get another drawer front, trim the ends off, and cover the hacked cabinet at the range top please. It makes the lines line up too: You can't do the same at the sink, but some paint and/or white caulk may do especially that this isn't at eye level. What sink make and model is that please? This is a perfect example of why apron sinks and range tops have to be centered in cabinets perfectly. That's why fabricators love negative reveals in undermount sinks; if they're off a bit, no one knows. Are these idiots colorblind? Does anyone see any bright white anywhere on these tops? Have them Dremel out the bright white fill and replace it with clear with just a kiss of gray tint please. Let's hope that's a seam I'm seeing in the botched inside corner. If it isn't, they've negated the manufacturer's warranty by not having a 3/8" radius. It is doomed to crack and fail. Sinks aren't mounted with wood shims that shrink. Shrinking wood shims let the sink drop, the silicone joint fails, and the sink leaks. Sink leaks make perfect dark damp bug habitat; I've got the pictures. The sink should be strapped, not clipped or shimmed in place. Hercules Universal Sink Harness or Sink Strap please. "Any fabricators that can advise on this work?" I don't work as a fabricator any longer, but I am a DuPont Certified Engineered Stone Installer. I wrote a magazine column on countertops for four consecutive years and have three licenses in two states. "Is the inside corner repairable?" Hard to say. I'd start by razor blading that adhesive mess off. " Is the line leading from inside corner (not straight) a seam, as I'm almost certain it is?" Looks like it to me. If they're lying about the existence of an obvious seam, what else are they lying about? "Are the island corners repairable? Is the left gap between counter edge and sink acceptable, or bad work?" See above, please. "I take there is no quick fix for the 1/4" variance that has resulted in the range top not being centered?. Correct. No quick fix. "Any ideas on trim to close the gap on right side of range top and gap on left side of sink?" See above please. Continue to sit on the money. You're actually doing them a favor by doing so. Check the tops for level and flatness please.