We have almost the exact dimensions in the bathroom we're adding, and I admit that for aesthetic reasons alone, we'll be using the typical layout of toilet between vanity and tub. ;) But I think even people who don't care as much about the aesthetics of seeing a toilet through an open bathroom door, prefer the toilet to feel a little more private. So, tucked in between a shower wall and a vanity is better than out in the open at the entrance to the room. (Even though that's a little illogical, as long as the door is closed!) And if you're worried about accessibility, then putting the vanity closest to the door makes much more sense. Since the toilet will stick out more than the vanity, putting it in the doorway creates more of an obstacle for someone to maneuver past to enter the room. With the toilet tucked in between the vanity and the shower, you gain breathing room in front of the vanity (in what is, in a small bath, the main part of the space). It's also been my experience assisting a person in a wheelchair that the typical path is toilet and then lift into the shower chair, so having those closer together really helps. (Even if you're using a bedpan under the shower chair, you will very much appreciate having the toilet as close as possible for emptying it.) I can also imagine someone with a cane or balance issues using the (lidded) toilet as a post-shower perch for drying off.

We have a 9' vanity in our MB, but it has two sinks and it's higher than standard (39"), so those might help make the proportions look better (and no one sees it but me and DH.) Personally I love it -- lots of storage. Getting a granite slab long enough was no trouble. I don't sit down to do hair/makeup so I didn't do a lowered vanity area, but they do look nice. (That lowered area on the left end is a storage bench; I get up early to work out so I keep workout clothes in there so I don't wake DH.) We did one big mirror over the sink. Since then I've seen framed mirrors over vanities and those look very nice. If I had thought of that I probably would have done that. Other things that might help break up the look of a long vanity: vessel sink, basket storage, sconces on either side of framed mirror (see 2nd picture.) Finally, you might want to post your bathroom layout and questions on the bathrooms forum. I've seen some really nicely done bathrooms over there with "wish I had thought of that" features. Here's a pic of ours if it helps. Vanity with vessels and baskets and framed mirror (not mine but I think it has some nice features):

The bathroom seems acceptably wide for the three components (sink, toilet, tub). I wouldn't worry about the closeness of the vanity to the door: either the user will be visible when the door is open or the user will have the door closed (and locked). If the bathtub faucet were against the left-hand wall, you could put shelves or something at the foot of the tub as, at 6'5" the wall is quite a bit wider than a typical tub is long. (The tub would be in an alcove).

@kirsten4224 Glad to help, I enjoy these projects. The sanitary sewer stack may or may not be compromised. In time corrosion can potentially effect the pipe but an inspection and test should prove if yours has been effected and thus, requires immediate replacing. Can you take some photographs of the stack? As I would like to see what it looks like more closely but ultimately, visually it can look ok, it would still require testing. That being said, even with a good test and good visually appealing pipe, as a home owner you have every right to replace something like this even if it is not compromised. It is not uncommon for individuals to upgrade old mechanical systems despite them functioning just fine, however, it is just as common for individuals to keep old systems that function just fine. I am just trying to point out that this is not necessarily a black and white situation, and if it isn't, then it really becomes your choice, and your choice would neither be right or wrong in this particular situation. Cost is usually the deterring factor in a case where a system works just fine. The plaster repair should not be the element that is cost prohibitive. Given you already need to drywall and finish every wall in that room, including the same wall that the pocket door is being proposed on, there is negligible total sq/ft of drywall work additional. The only extra repair is a strip around both inside edges of where the pocket door will go in and out from. That may-be 5 sq/ft in total or not much more.. and drywall required to close the old doorway from the outside. If that is say a 3ft door your looking at a total of approx. 21sq/ft more. In total 26 sq/ft extra if I am correct. So have them clarify why exactly it is more drywall repair. If anything the additional work is the framing work involved for a pocket door, as I said in a prior message, however, if you plan to frame the floor inside the "maids corridor" plus have that drywall and plumbing work complete, then that expense should be priced marginally in comparison, so some extra drywall work expense should thus, also be negligible. Although, even with fair pricing, at the end of the day it will all come down to what you feel is worth it for you. This is me thinking out-loud.. My advice is to have them itemize costs as much as possible. Especially don't except pricing without an itemized price for the sanitary sewer replacement, and if you are still interested, also for the pocket door. I would be tremendously curious as to what pricing your given for each.