I would suggest going to an American owned auto parts store, not those el-cheapo foreign stores, to seek a real tire guage. Or, go to an independent tire store, and ask them where they buy their tire guages. Or ask at a truck repair shop. Those el-cheapo guages aren't good for much else than a tool box space filler! I have a Motor home with dual rear wheels. There is an extension made that can be screwed onto the inner tire valve stem, then brought out thru the outer rim holes, to where you can read the pressure with a regular tire guage, and add air if needed. It clamps to the steel inner part of the rim. Also, its weight is negligible, so it doesn't affect the tire balance. HTH: Rusty Jones

I use bermuda grass and then whatever is growing in the pastures...which is virtually everything. I wouldn't use bermuda grass if it had formed seedheads. That batch would go into the compost pile so the heat of composting could sterilize the seeds. To prevent anything in the grass clippings OR the soil from sprouting and growing up through the mulch, lay down newspaper or cardboard and then pile on the mulch. If there is any wind, wet down the cardboard or newspaper as you lay it down so it won't blow away before you pile on the mulch. The newspaper or cardboard serves as a barrier. Weed seed beneath it cannot sprout because of the darkness and if it sprouts, it generally cannot penetrate the paper or cardboard. Weed seed on top of the cardboard or paper may sprout, but any plants that sprout in the mulch can't grow down through it and it is easy to pull them out of the mulch when you notice they've sprouted. As a bonus, earthworms adore newspaper and cardboard so having them on the ground attracts them to your soil and since they improve the soil, that's a plus. A couple of tips: 1) Never use any grass clippings from lawn treated with herbicides, including weed and feed fertilizers; 2) If the grass is holding a lot of moisture after it is cut, I leave it in the garden cart or wagon for a day or two and let it dry and then I spread them on the beds; 3) If you have cut tallish bermuda in humid, hot conditions (especially in late spring/early summer) and think chiggers might be lurking in there, spray yourself with an insect repellent before you spread the grass clippings. Then, after you're done, scrub yourself thoroughly to remove any that may be climbing around on you. I have chigger issues about once a year after spreading grass clippings DH has cut and it usually happens in late May or early June. 4) Be very picky about your grass clippings. If neighbors see and understand what you're doing and offer you theirs, make sure their lawns haven't been chemically-treated. 5) If you have an issue with snails, slugs, pill bugs or sow bugs be sure you leave a little open space (at least 1/4") between the mulch and plant stems so you can spot those little buggies and sluggies and kill them dead. (I just sprinkle Slug-Go Plus in that little open area so they can find something to eat. It is just a bonus that the 'something' they find to eat kills them.) Dawn

Last year a good reliable soil test done by Michigan State University cost $13.00 per sample and is a good investment. Along with that soil test these simple soil tests might also be of some help. 1) Soil test for organic matter. From that soil sample put enough of the rest to make a 4 inch level in a clear 1 quart jar, with a tight fitting lid. Fill that jar with water and replace the lid, tightly. Shake the jar vigorously and then let it stand for 24 hours. Your soil will settle out according to soil particle size and weight. For example, a good loam will have about 1-3/4 inch (about 45%) of sand on the bottom. about 1 inch (about 25%) of silt next, about 1 inch (25%) of clay above that, and about 1/4 inch (about 5%) of organic matter on the top. 2) Drainage. Dig a hole 1 foot square and 1 foot deep and fill that with water. After that water drains away refill the hole with more water and time how long it takes that to drain away. Anything less than 2 hours and your soil drains’ too quickly and needs more organic matter to slow that drainage down. Anything over 6 hours and the soil drains too slowly and needs lots of organic matter to speed it up. 3) Tilth. Take a handful of your slightly damp soil and squeeze it tightly. When the pressure is released the soil should hold together in that clump, but when poked with a finger that clump should fall apart. 4) Smell. What does your soil smell like? A pleasant, rich earthy odor? Putrid, offensive, repugnant odor? The more organic matter in your soil the more active the soil bacteria will be and the nicer your soil will smell, to a point. Too much organic matter can be bad as well. 5) Life. How many earthworms per shovel full were there? 5 or more indicates a pretty healthy soil. Fewer than 5, according to the Natural Resources Conservation Service, indicates a soil that is not healthy.

I knew this thread would get interesting. Which is why I find the lawn care forum so fascinating! I am a very accomplished gardener. But, agreeably, new to turf. So, no turf creed. Don’t ALL CAPme for my beliefs. However, everything I have ever learned, experienced or predicted about gardening…always starts with the soil. R.E.S.P.E.C.T…Arethra… If you want to gain a scientifically tested knowledge of organics versus synthetics, read Jeff Gillman’s, The Truth About Organic Gardening He is very balanced in his teachings. After reading the book, I realize, just because it’s organic, doesn’t mean it is safe. There is no good organic pesticide. However, any time one can increase biodiversity in soil, and decrease pesticide, is a good thing., right? As in, can’t we just all get along…. (Rodney King, reference…. :) If you want to delve, (pun intended) deeper into soil knowledge, read, Teaming with Microbes: The Organic Gardener's Guide to the Soil Food Web, Revised Edition (Science for Gardeners)Hardcover – February 24, 2010 And, just for kicks, read: The Earth Moved by Amy Stewart.. If you are a nerd and enjoy soil. It is highly entertaining to learn about Darwin, his health issues, (poor tired wife) and his incredibly patient a/k/a freakishly o.c.d nature/beliefs. So, I am guessing my NC peep, J4c11, won’t rise to my challenge to lasagna gardening if spring seeding doesn’t pan out. I did that one fall, with newspapers and lots of leaves. The soil…and resulting back yard turf is amazingly superior. What I learned in the front yard is that I organically fertilized the weeds (with feed store)…along with the fescue. The ground was compacted from a parking pad/sidewalk reconfiguration that left lots of stone/brick/sand/mortar and a large back-hoe on my lawn for several months. Today, poa annua is my only problem. Don’t want to get cocky because tomorrow I may face crabgrass. Or fungal pressures. Or young adult children who want to move home…. HA! Each to his own.