I'm not exactly sure what your concern is. All cooktops I've dealt with light on high and then you turn them down to simmer - you probably need the extra gas for the initial ignition - but then once it lights you can almost instantaneously turn it down low. I believe they all work this way, but someone else can correct me if I'm wrong.

sanlynn, weissman is right that the dials of most cooktops go from off to high to low and that most light at high.

BUT

I THINK I am remembering correctly that Vikings are configured to be continuous from off to low to high. However, they may still light on high.

And Definititely, wolf cooktops can light anywhere - not just on High. So, if you want a low flame, zoom right on through to a low setting and arrest the dial there then when the igniter has gone, the gas flow tube is configured at a low. The Wolf also has the double stacked burner where the simmer burner has a separate ignition event than does the main burner. So, again, if you zoom on through the 180 degree point to the proximity of the simmer flame, you will be able to turn on the flame on a simmer setting. I have this cooktop so I do know that this information is correct although if you haven't played with a wolf or another stove with the separate main vs. simmer burner and dial, then what I've said may well sound like double-dutch to you. So if you can test drive the Wolf in person that may behoove you. I know the GE Monogram has the stacked burner too but I don't know what their dial configuration is like. DCS makes Monogram but do DCS stoves have such a burner /dial? I don't know.

On DCS, it goes from off to light to high to simmer. DCS does have dual stacked burners but they apparently operate a little different from the Wolf. When you light the burner, both burners rings ignite. As you turn it down the upper flame gets smaller and then goes out leaving just the simmer burner on.

Thanks for your answers. I guess my concern is when a pot is already on the stove, say on a medium flame and then needs to simmer, sometimes having the flame shoot high before getting to simmer might not be desireable. Nor would lifting the pan off the burner whilst adjusting the flame. I can't think of an exact application but maybe making delicate sauces, custards or a chocalate sauce comes to mind. It's been so long since I've had a gas stove I can hardly remember what I used to do...

On the DCS, if you have a pan on a medium flame you can turn it straight down to simmer - no need to go back up to high - the simmer burner is already lit. I'm not familiar with any burner that once it's lit would require you to go back to high before going to simmer.

Yup, if it's already lit you can turn a gas burner down without going up first.

On just about ANY burner, medium is between High and Low/simmer. Not sure what sort of burner you are thinking of that you'd have to pass High to get to low from medium.

At worst, on the Wolf with it's dual stacked burners, you'd go from a medium on the main burner to the high of the simmer burner - and that simmer-high doesn't seem to be any bigger than the low of the main burner. So that's the only way you'd go through a "High" setting and even so it would be a very low flame.

There must be a communication lag here somewhere. What sort of stove are you thinking of, sanlynn? Perhaps it'd be easier to explain with the correct reference drawn.

I think the fear might be unfounded. From experience, there's no way that, even from high to simmer, much less from med to simmer, the split second it takes to turn the flame to simmer is going to ruin even the more delicate of sauces. It just takes too long for heat to permeate to make a material effect on something within a pot or pan.

Thanks all for your input. I think you're right that the concern is unfounded. Now I just have to plow through all the other features to pick out a gas cooktop I'll love.

Yes, mine goes directly to simmer - it is a Thermador. If you put the dial in that position, it will fire up at simmer. I suspect most of the premium gas cooktops - from the Viking/Thermador/Wolf/DCS to GE or Kenmore Elite work this way.

Can't imaging it being a problem, but the Viking ranges light on any setting, but start with a low simmer setting, then go from high to low. So, if you are cooking on a medium or low setting you will have to pass through the high setting to get to the low simmer setting.