The cut sheet for the faucet should detail that information. I just bought a Kohler Purist wall-mounted faucet for mounting above an undermount sink. The cut sheet says that a 1 1/2" to 6" minimum must be maintained between the bottom of the spout and the top of the fixture rim. Since I'm using an undermount sink, I'm calling the edge of the marble countertop "the edge of the fixture rim." You might also measure your current faucet and sink to give you an idea of what you find acceptable now, while staying within the guidelines given on the cut sheet. Good luck.

Mounting orchids is a simple process. First, I would suggest applying the hanger to your mounting material. Most people make hangers for the mounts from wire. The most common wire used is the wire used for hanging suspended ceilings, but any strong, yet flexible wire may be used. One method is to bend the wire into a u shape, and then hammer the wire into the mount. The other method is to drill a hole or two and thread it through the mount. Making a tag with a hole and threading it onto the hanger is a wise thing to do to identify the plant. A tag made from Tyvek scraps and permanent marker may be used if you dont have any fancier material. Orchids to be mounted are placed on the mounting material which has been soaked in water (I like to leave it over night). Some people put a pad of good quality sphagnum moss on the mount then place the roots on top of itallowing the roots to spread first into the sphag. Before it goes into the mount thereby helping it get established. Others prefer to place the plant directly on the mount, or to put the sphag pad on the outside. The plant is then tied into the mount, by wrapping monofilament (fishing line), twist tie, or panty hose around the roots. Once the plants roots have grown into the mount, the line, twist ties, or panty hose is removed. Tree fern plaques (or slabs), and cork bark are probably the most commonly used mounting material, but other materials include cactus skeletons, and rough driftwood (both of which may be purchased at pet stores as they are used for reptiles). Some people like to use slabs of wood with bark attachedsuch as live oak or fir. Fresh water driftwood may be used, but driftwood from saltwater bodies must be washed to remove the salt. Using Physan to kill any bad things on collected mounts is also a good idea. Driftwood as a whole may not be the best material as orchids like to have a somewhat rough surface to grow into. One grower uses paint sticks for some of his smaller mounts. Tree fern slabs are probably the most quickly drying. Vary your mounting material to the plants needs. Plants needing a quicker dry-out should be mounted on a more porous material and the sphagnum or coir pad may be skipped.

Let's say the slab was 24x96, that's 16 sq ft. Off the top of my head, I recall soapstone is 22 lbs per sq ft for 3cm thickness = 352 lbs, heavy, yes, but not excessive. Still, some kind of extra reinforcement or heavier studs at minimum would be called for, because it is cantilevered out from the wall several inches on that shadowbox mount. There are ways to mount to a frame like that, that's simple: welded metal frames , epoxy anchor bolts into the back of the slab. And to hang it on the wall, some down-facing open-slotted tabs and 4 @ 1/2" bolts sticking out of the wall and you're good.

Hello from Philadelphia, I have been trying to solve the same problem: how to incorporate a side spray with a wall mounted fixture when you don't want the untidy exposed hoses seen on many models. I just discovered that one must search for an "independent side spray" in order to find one that is designed with a valve that requires independent plumbing with hot and cold. I plan to pair the Graff independent side spray with a Kingston Concord chrome wall faucet. Very excited!