The supply is typically stubbed out into the space below the vanity, and on/off valves are placed there. Just like a "normal" installation. Copper is then continued back up into the stud bay to where the wall faucet will be located. If you ever retrofit, turn off the water, remove the wall faucet, unscrew the nipples, cut the copper under the sink, install new nipples, then connect the new faucet's supply lines to the nipples. Clear as mud? The biggest pain will be repairing the backsplash or wall where the wall faucet came through the wall. If tiled, save a couple of tiles as replacements. If wood, patch and repaint. If stained wood or stone, it'd probably be easiest to just install a new backsplash or do a decorative applique over the holes. Mongo

Mounting orchids is a simple process. First, I would suggest applying the hanger to your mounting material. Most people make hangers for the mounts from wire. The most common wire used is the wire used for hanging suspended ceilings, but any strong, yet flexible wire may be used. One method is to bend the wire into a u shape, and then hammer the wire into the mount. The other method is to drill a hole or two and thread it through the mount. Making a tag with a hole and threading it onto the hanger is a wise thing to do to identify the plant. A tag made from Tyvek scraps and permanent marker may be used if you dont have any fancier material. Orchids to be mounted are placed on the mounting material which has been soaked in water (I like to leave it over night). Some people put a pad of good quality sphagnum moss on the mount then place the roots on top of itallowing the roots to spread first into the sphag. Before it goes into the mount thereby helping it get established. Others prefer to place the plant directly on the mount, or to put the sphag pad on the outside. The plant is then tied into the mount, by wrapping monofilament (fishing line), twist tie, or panty hose around the roots. Once the plants roots have grown into the mount, the line, twist ties, or panty hose is removed. Tree fern plaques (or slabs), and cork bark are probably the most commonly used mounting material, but other materials include cactus skeletons, and rough driftwood (both of which may be purchased at pet stores as they are used for reptiles). Some people like to use slabs of wood with bark attachedsuch as live oak or fir. Fresh water driftwood may be used, but driftwood from saltwater bodies must be washed to remove the salt. Using Physan to kill any bad things on collected mounts is also a good idea. Driftwood as a whole may not be the best material as orchids like to have a somewhat rough surface to grow into. One grower uses paint sticks for some of his smaller mounts. Tree fern slabs are probably the most quickly drying. Vary your mounting material to the plants needs. Plants needing a quicker dry-out should be mounted on a more porous material and the sphagnum or coir pad may be skipped.

There can be little blotches or dark spots or who knows what in quartz. I had Caesarstone Buttermilk installed from two lots (one was a remnant piece that the fabricator gave me for free) but while the remnant looked like the sample, my full slab had white blotches and blobs scattered about. It looked like a bird did a flyby. I was very disappointed. Fortunately, they ruined my slab on install by cleaning the epoxy off with Barkeeper's Friend (never use an abrasive on quartz!), so they had to replace my counter. I switched to Pentalquartz because they have a huge warehouse locally and I could pick my slabs.

We have a full slab behind our stove, and I love it. No grout lines to get dirty. It's a very clean look that perfectly fits our design language. But obviously, there are tons of different kitchen designs and it obviously wouldn't be a good fit everywhere. And yes, having a solid backsplash makes it harder to install other hardware. In our case, we opted to minimize penetrations. The only hole that we cut was for a pot filler above the stove. We designed the kitchen so that no switches would be necessary in this location, and outlets are installed as plugmolds under the cabinets. N.b. this puts restriction on where you have to install upper cabinets, as building codes restrict the heights and distance of outlets. If planning to go this route, have your kitchen designer or architect review building codes carefully. Also, I want to second the warning that quartz isn't an appropriate backsplash in a kitchen. There are countless postings on Houzz from people who found that out the hard way. Using quartz is very likely to result in eventual heat damage. In our case, we opted for ceramic material instead, but natural stone or metal is also viable. Glass might or might not work, depending on whether you can source heat resistant glass (noticeably more expensive!)