I think that is going to be one fabulous bathroom, is what I think! So it was a bit hard to see from your pics, but looks like you're doing white tile, yes? No need to worry about color reflections off that. Love the floor; we have two lino floors (kitchen and bath) so far but both are pretty tame...hopefully the last bath will have a floor more like yours. Know what you mean about it getting a *bit* less wild when spread out. Re paint options -- I always treat red as a neutral, the floor allows for pretty much anything, and you do have plenty of gorgeous natural light (jealous!). So AFAIC you can do pretty much whatever you want. Your original paint choices were quite neutral -- more on the grey in a minute -- but since you say you're leaning towards warm tones you could certainly do that. I did a fairly pale grey floor (Forbo's "Concrete") with a dark vanity and while some were a bit dubious about the combo I *love* it and find it very appealing. IMO the dark trim/matching paint *is* your biggest hurdle; I found colors like Latte just deadened the richness. Unlike you I have a dark bath, so the pic isn't that great! And yes, I did try a lot of tans to offset my Crayola colors elsewhere, ha! The ones that worked best had a yellow, peanut-y/camel undertone (that I disliked with my floor, hence my use of a pale greyed down aqua that looks like one of the ubiquitous RH shades). Are you a color-color person or more of a "whisper of a hue" one? Some random ideas, many of which are in the Sherwin Williams historical lines: * a nice mild apricot -- or push it more towards a squash-y shade (I happen to be someone who loves oranges and reds together) * a buttery yellow or warmer gold -- I love my pale yellow tile with the dark vanity/mirror and grey spots * any number of pale to dark greens (sages, olives, aquas) * a plum shade, which tends to read warmer than paler lavender) * not warm, but a classic 20s cornflower blue * a peanut-y or camel shade (gotta get the tone down so your wood doesn't suffer!) I'm a broken record about this on the Decorating Forum, but I often look to vintage textiles or graphics for color ideas. A few for you.... Here is a link that might be useful: A zilllion vintage poster color combos at AllPosters.com

It was around $1800. It's more than normal because I got the glass extra tall, extra thick and got the Shower Guard treatment. I probably could have just got the standard height. The main reason I had extra height on the old doors was so I didn't bump my head on the top rail. Since there is no longer a top rail, this doesn't matter any more. Maybe the extra height will cut down on any overspray outside the shower. The Shower Guard doesn't work the way I expected it would. I expected the water to just run off in sheets with no beading or spots, but their is plenty of beading. There are no spots "sticking" to the glass, and they guarantee that water spots will never etch permanently into the glass and it won't develop pitting that makes the shower door glass get harder to clean as it ages. it still takes some elbow grease to get it spotless. I am just not super impressed yet because I thought it would be easier to keep clean than it is. If it doesn't get any harder to clean in a few years than it is today, then I'll be impressed with it at that time since I'm not going to squeegee the glass between cleanings since it isn't supposed to be needed as long as you clean it regularly (scrub it clean of soap scum on weekends etc.) I don't have any more tracks to clean and it's also easier to clean since I not longer have a section of the doors that overlap each other, so I like it much better overall.

I've been planning a vintage bath remodel in my ca1888 house for what seems like forever (I am FINALLY ready to pull the trigger). I'm going for something kind of deco and a little more contrasty than most though. The walls will be partially tiled in white subway with a black 1/2" liner, a 3x8 embossed tile and topped by a black wainscot cap. I haven't decided what the baseboard will be but either a 4x4 cove base topped by a half inch white liner and then another half inch black liner OR a flat 6x6 topped with a half inch black liner. The floors will be matte glazed porcelain hex, white with some black dots. My shower base is corian but with a terrazzo look in greys and whites. The grout will be grey. I have black porcelain turtle shade sconces (now discontinued at rejuvenation, I got them on clearance, but they have a similar style still available) and probably will also have a black porcelain overhead light. I will have two sinks that are adjacent to each other - one will be a slab supported by chrome legs with exposed sink and piping and the other will be a vanity, the cartwright small single sink from restoration hardware. Matching restoration hardware mirrors. The vanity tops will be matching 1 1/4" slabs of honed jet mist granite from a local granite shop. Here are a couple of elevation sketches I did, this one showing the most likely base idea with the console sink and the other showing the vanity sink but without any kind of a base. I will also have a new clawfoot tub (sorry to see the old one go but the crappy chipping refinish job has pretty much ruined it for me, I want something that will last a lifetime) that is double-ended with a center mount faucet, chrome feet and that is painted black on the outside (but normal white porcelain on the inside). The toilet is the toto guinevere, still in my garage, and the faucets are rohl country C-spout. I'm also replacing the radiator with a myson hydronic towel warmer that has kind of a funky vintagey look. Now I just need to get started. Reminds me I have to call the contractor :).

Depends on what look you're going for - contemporary? Then spend the $ now on frameless doors and get them installed. More traditional? Then do a shower curtain(s) and frame your mirrors. It's not that hard to do (I did it with a huge jigsaw puzzle in ds's nursery) after the mirrors are on the wall, as long as there's room. Only thing is you want to paint the back of the trim black so you don't see reflection of the wood where it overlaps the mirror. A mirror will be thicker than the jigsaw puzzle, so you'll need to route a channel in the back of the trim pieces where it overlaps the mirror, or else the outer edge of the trim won't lie flat against the wall. If you don't have the carpentry skills to DIY, ask your finish carpenter to do it - I'm sure it'll be a lot less than $200 per mirror (42" x ? each). Do you have pics of bathrooms so far (vanities, sinks, faucets, lighting installed?) so we can see what style is? Of course, oceanna's solution is much easier to DIY and looks so pretty (but more casual/contemporary). As always, oceanna, your painting is beautiful! I'd love to see your whole bathroom!