Don't get desperate. That makes for bad plant decisions. Your circle is small, so that means relatively few plants. Consider 2-4 'specimen' evergreens with good foliage interest and occasional bloom. Then fill in with annuals for seasonal interest to give variety. I'm in zone 17 but that's a very large zone (I wish Sunset would break this one up someday). I'm 25 miles from the coast in the Oakland hills, so I get the fog but more sun than you do. The following are all ones that have done well in my shady areas (of which I have a lot). Many of them have variegated leaves. I love variegation and because most annual flowering plants have uninteresting leaves save for coleus, I think it adds a brightness to shady beds. You need to think in terms of foliage: the contrasts of texture, size, shape and color. Thats what gives you year-round interest, allowing you to ramp up the drama with seasonal changes in bursts of flowering. Decide what overall shape you want, especially if this bed is viewed from a distance as well as close-up. Medium-height center, surrounded by low growers? A taller center for more striking contrast with lower undergrowth? You might envision your circle design as the spokes of a wheel  the outer circle of plants alternating between evergreens and annuals. Strong winds mean that if you want a dwarf tree or shrub to act as the 'backbone' for your circle, it needs to be one that develops a strong trunk so when properly staked, it will grow nicely upright without a 'wind bend' to it. Note that using a tall-growing center plant may mean even more shade for the plants on the leeward side. IÂd use a nice Japanese maple, like ÂEmperor 1 for its beautiful dark red leaves and graceful layered upright shape, for example. Or a Rhamnus variegatus, tall and narrow. The Rhamnus (buckthorn) is evergreen, with white-edged small leaves that catch a lot of light. Both are wonderful background plants that top out around 12Â. 'Emperor 1' Japanese maple: Rhamnus variegata, long view: Closeup of leaf color (it's above a pelargonium fancy-leaf hybrid 'Vancouver Centennial', but you wouldn't want this one as it has orange-red flowers): Conversely, you could use something of modest height - say, around 3-6 feet  as the center. A spiky phormium (New Zealand flax), for example: the red/pink varieties are much more modest growers than the larger brown-leaved P. Atropurpureum. If you want an almost perfect round ball instead of vertical spikes, the shrub Lantana ÂPeaches and Cream (donÂt get the trailer of the same name!) ignores the wind and will flower even in the fog; it gets 3-4 around but is easily pruned. 'Sundowner' phormium in heavy shade, 3 yrs old: 'Peaches & Cream' shrub lantana, planted atop a concrete wall -- right hand side, just in front of the cluster of blue agapanthus flowers: With a more open, irregular branching shape in partial sun, 3 tall evergreen Rhaphiolepsis indica (Indian Hawthorn) ÂBallerinaÂ, is a dwarf that has lovely pink flowers sporadically through the year, with handsome dark leaves that have a tan underside. Shade groundcovers will live near and under this, such as Stacchys byzantina (lambÂs ears; ÂHelen von Stein should be selected if you donÂt like the bee-favored flower spikes of the standard varieties) or the gorgeous burgundy Oxalis ÂCharmed WineÂ. Rhaphiolepsis indica 'Ballerina': Oxalis 'Charmed Wine' (just planted last week): For sheer unabashed colorful variegation, the fuchsia ÂFirecracker is a stunning specimen at 4x2 that catches the eye even when it isnÂt flowering (BTW, these are height x width measurements). Magilla perilla, a coleus relative, might work for you as coastal fogs keep frosts away from your garden. Strobilanthes aka Persian Shield, is another possibility that is even more beautiful. Fuchsia 'Firecracker': Magilla perilla: Strobilanthes: I love pelargoniums, but many of them are scraggly in shape or flop over. Only a few have shown tight bushy shape, but the labels aren't much help that I've found. You should be sure to select them in flower as some of them have rather strident hues that donÂt always play well with others. This fancy-leaf is either "Skies of Italy" or "Mrs. Pollack". The leaves of both varieties are virtually identical, but one has pink flowers and the other has reddish-orange flowers. Lower growers could include the 1x2 mini-trailer Erysimum ÂvariegataÂ, my favorite for beautiful variegated leaves that produce gorgeous spikes of lavender flowers for months on end. Lamium ÂPurple Dragon has beautiful silver leaves and purple flowers that really stand out on dull gray days. Even purple variegated sage, the ordinary cooking herb, has nice leaves and surprisingly pretty flower spikes once a year, although it generally only lives 2-3 years. Erysimum 'Variegata': Lamium ÂPurple DragonÂ: If you want taller Âspokes alternating with lower ones, consider a mini-rose. They grow much better in the ground than in pots, and come in many colors; they are easily found during the holiday season. Or an azalea: a little acid fertilizer and sulphur will take care of its soil requirements. 1x2 Brunnera ÂJack Frost has amazing silver leaves and sky-blue flower spikes. Brunnera ÂJack FrostÂ: I have an unnamed reflowering dark purple iris that has marvelous blue-green sword-like leaves that look wonderful with other foliage and flowers, even when out of bloom. Another remarkable, unusual specimen is the true dwarf canna ÂPink SunburstÂ. unnamed reflowering dark purple iris - that's a variegated Aucuba 'Gold Dust' next to it, a good shade plant easily kept to about 4x4' with pruning: Dwarf canna ÂPink Sunburst - all other 'dwarf cannas' seem to be 4' tall. This one is truly only 2' or less: Lithodora is a magnificent blue low-growing perennial  you might have better luck with it where you are. In my crowded and xeric Oakland hills garden, it canÂt seem to establish itself well enough against the more established evergreens. Variegated heuchera ÂSnow Angel is a delicate plant that might be worth trying; itÂs amazingly floriferous for its size. Lithodora - this is the dark blue variety; most are a lighter blue: Variegated heuchera ÂSnow AngelÂ: Anyway, hope the photos help you envision some possibilities.

Sharon, In my opinion while the Suncast shed is cute with the windows and all, I'm not sure you will be pleased with the overall durability of a plastic shed. If you click on the specifications tab of the ad and go to warranty it says: see owners manual for warranty, meaning to me the manufacturer doesn't want to be up front with a warranty.Also the Suncast shed doesn't include shipping in the price. For my money I'd look into a vinyl clad steel shed like this Arrow Sheridan. If your existing shed is not on a concrete slab you would probably need to buy the floor frame kit extra which would still put the cost at $900 with shipping included. The Arrow shed also comes with a 15 yr. warranty. After just a few years of extremes from 20 degree to 100 degree weather the plastic shed will be brittle and susceptible to breakage from hail and high winds while the steel shed may have hail damage but is still standing strong. Since sheds are a seasonal item, you might get a better price if you wait until the weather gets cold and Home Depot and Lowes both offer 6 months no interest on purchases over $300, also if you buy at the store instead of on-line don't be afraid to ask for a better price. You might just get another 10-20% off! Keith

I used to participate in the work cookie exchange. I slaved over making my family spritz recipe. Only to find that I didn’t like anyone else’s cookies but my own. Half the people brought chocolate chip cookies, which are NOT Christmas cookies in my mind. I no longer work there. Now spritz is just for family. Then I found out my son was bring the cookies to the hospital where the staff could help themselves. He said the cookies were inhaled in seconds, “They’ll eat anything!” he laughed. Sorry, if people eat my cookies just because they are hungry, that’s not my audience. I started giving him a lot less so he would have just enough for himself and his wife. Maybe I am selfish but so be it. I work too hard on them for that. My DIL agreed that she would no longer make cookies for the hospital. Unless they were a recipe that turned out not to suit her taste. She reported that even the cookies that did not turn out in her new oven were inhaled. My niece came to my house for lessons in how to make them. She reported that she couldn’t get the hang of it. Now, THAT is someone who I will gladly give spritz to: she knows what goes into it.

I think everybody gave you sufficient reason to keep them and I think you should keep them, too. But in the future if you don't want them (or you have home decoration, appliance, or building material that you don't need and is still a good condition) you can donate them to your local Habitat for Humanity ReStore.