Oh, it will be so pretty!
My question is: why the funny "hooks" in the "NW" bedroom. I understand needing to see the window behind the stairs, but why on the "W" wall? (use my cardinal directions as the layout lays, not as your house lays). Could you just make the closet extend all the way across to the front wall? How will you otherwise use that space? (maybe a desk?) Just trying to figure out if it is too weird there.

Also, it is hard to determine the width you have to get around the door in the Mbath when you walk in, to be able to close the door and get to the toilet. There are no dimensions. You might want to consider a different swing-style or pocket door there. Or, move the bathroom wall (E) E a bit closer to the wardrobe wall.

Also, have you seen this link linked recently? I love it!
It might work really well for your wardrobe wall with little wasted space.

Here is a link that might be useful: wardrobe walls

An 18" deep vanity is very shallow and will limit your options for sinks--you need space in front and in back of the sink plus room for the faucets on the deck at the back. Also, it is hard to tell whether, even with that depth, you have enough room to stand at the sink without getting hit by the door opening and closing. If you must do 18", you might consider wall mounted faucets. I agree with Kirkhall that you might want to move the door closer to the bottom of the photo or do a pocket door.

kirkhall - good point! I need to eliminate that weird hook on the NW corner. It was leftover from when we were playing with the placement of the windows & width of the dormer. It makes much more sense to just continue the closet wall & give that bedroom a big closet.

nycdevil - I should have had the image file save with the grid showing. The reason for the 18" deep vanity is the shower more than the door placement (but your point on the door is a good one, I'm moving it down toward the bottom of the picture). The shower is only 4' wide and I thought if I put in a standard 24" deep vanity that would only leave a little 24" wide space to get in & out of the shower. That seemed like it would be tight.

How wide is "normal" access to a shower? I think that the bypass doors on a standard tub are probably as small as you'd want to go, right? I'm guessing those give you an opening about 27" wide (30" - the width of the metal frame).

But ... if I spin the vanity around then I can make it 42" wide & still only 18" deep like this. The floorspace between shower pan and vanity is only 28". Is that enough?

I appreciate your comments, a fresh perspective is SO helpful after staring at this for weeks.

putting numbers and letters on rows and columns:
A to Y on the west wall. "A" is the top corner (NW) and "Y" is the outside corner at bottom (SW).
1 to 35 across the south wall. The first and last numbers are at the outside corners.

Thus
The NW closet extending all the way across has doors on squares B6 to J6. I suggest you think about 3 bypass doors on a 12' channel extending to go in front of wall K6 to M6. Then you can have 2 of the 3 doors slid out of the way at any time.

In the Master BR I think you want to improve the daytime sunlight. Consider having a wardrobe wall going from Q21 to Q34, with a door or opening at Q28-Q31. This gives the wardrobe wall as much volume as before, but it is broken up into two pieces. You get better views of the window at Y30-Y31. The piece at Q31-Q34-T34-T31 has a side where you can hang a mirror, to catch sunlight from the Y25-Y26 window, and some view. Put the vanity between the two windows, i.e. Y27-Y30. Put the shower in the SE corner, Y31-Y34-U34-U31. Leave the toilet where it is.

The wardrobe wall might be floor to ceiling or left open and lofty above. The key concept here is that it run East-West spanning the bedroom. This frees up a corner near the East window.

The back of the wardrobe does not have to be a full fledge full sized wall because it is not structural. Where the shower is, the back of the wardrobe thingie could be built to contain cubbyholes and niches. You could even have a trap door letting you reach into the wardrobe thingie to get spare bottles of shampoo. The shower rectangle has to be enclosed above but you can build this with a sheet of tempered glass slanted to let condensation drip one way only. You might want to have two separate ventilation fans. One in the shower, one at the toilet. The wall at the toilet is drawn as thick wall. It can hold the vent duct if you put the toilet vent opening in the wall down low where the toilet seat is.
Kohler makes a "Greek" tub, a soaker tub. It is 48". No one complains when they have it.

Hth.