Hoods that try to mimic actual commercial hoods while retaining a more modest size, practical aspect, and decent aesthetics are widely available from many sources that can be found on the Internet. For example, you can download the Wolf Design Guide and look at the pro island hoods to get an idea. There are others fabricating similar designs. While this is a necessary exercise, the first step is characterizing the parameters of the hood, blower, and make-up air system. To do this, it is necessary to start with the size of the cooktop. If you have already done all the math and know your necessary hood size, then a tour of hood makers' wares is next. Please keep in mind that of performance, aesthetics, and affordability, generally only two out of three can be maximized. Most hoods are compromises within these factors.

And the saga continues....HVAC man came by. looked all around, house is not tight but current state code is requiring MUA above 400 or 600 CFM, but enforcement is varying town by town. The town 3 miles away is rejecting permits without MUA. My town is not. He said given location of furnace and if I absolutely promised to crack a window, he'd be ok with no MUA. If the plans get rejected because of a lack of MUA, a simple unconditioned system could be put in through the crawl space at around $1800-$2500. That is of course if I get rid of the infestation of the biggest crickets he has ever seen in his life that are presently residing the crawl space. Still haven't connected with Kitchen consultant.

Where duct equivalence is a requirement, two 8-inch ducts could be used to match a 10-inch duct. In any case, searching this forum should have led to commentaries on determining requirements before picking hoods. Decide how much cooking plume effluent you want to capture by how much the hood overlaps the possible cooking pans and locations. (Assume a 10-degree from vertical plume spread.) Then use the area of the resulting hood to determine needed air flow rate when performing hot cooking (even if it is on only one burner) by multiplying the area in square feet by 90 CFM/sq.ft. Then, for the case of going directly out the wall with free air flow MUA, assume a factor of 1.3 for baffle pressure loss. This will raise the rated CFM needed for the blower by 1.3 such that the rating should be 1.3 x 90 x area in sq. ft. (Note that this is less than the 1.5 I usually suggest for normal duct lengths, less than perfect MUA, and a duct silencer.) If the hood or insert is a VaH without baffles, use 1.1 to compensate for minor losses such as from the outside cap loss and imperfect MUA. Example: 45 ft x 2 ft = 9 sq. ft. Desired flow is 9 x 90 = 810 CFM. Rated flow for conventional baffled hood then should be 720 x 1.3 ~ a nominal 1000 CFM. While equal blowers mounted in the hood or just outside via a minimal duct length will have roughly the same noise, outside mounting may allow a larger blower that one can run at less than full speed. This will greatly reduce blade tip turbulence noise, which otherwise dominates. Abbaka and Wolf and Broan, for three examples, make down-roof radial blowers that should be adequate to mount on a wall. Exterior aesthetic considerations may influence inside vs. outside, but a low pressure loss cap will not be much larger than a motor housing, and you get a damper with the housing.

Thanks @wdccruise, I've seen these but I'm not a huge fan of how they look. I think we might just have to go with a freestanding double oven range, which is less than half the price of the slide-ins that I like. A slide-in will be more appropriate if we were to redo the entire kitchen and add a backsplash. Also, the GE Profile you linked above looks nice. I was looking at the GE Profile slide-ins and they get some bad reviews, but these reviews look pretty good. I think that one might be a good option for us.