This video will show you how to replace a burner orifice. Sorry, I haven't ever had to replace the oven stuff. Did the kit just consist of a bunch of orifices like the one I show in the video linked above? Or are there also replacement gas valves? aabny, if you do not mind, I would appreciate it if you would post a note in this thread when you do the swap. What I would like to know is what number is stamped on the replacement orifices that go on the 22k RNB, the 15K NB, and the 8K simmer burner. I know what size the natural gas ones should be, but I would like to know what sizes the LP version uses for each burner. The drill size or "gauge" of each orifice is stamped in the brass. It should be easy to spot. Thanks!

I am a Ph.D. chemist and I completely understand the origin of the black deposit. The black material is soot or from a chemical standpoint it is carbon. When you use the fireplace you will see a cool yellow flame rather than a blue flame from hot combustion of LP or propane. The cool yellow flames means that carbon monoxide is a product of the partial combustion of your gas source. Most of the time this carbon monoxide goes up the chimney. If the flames were blue in color that would mean that the flames were not only hot but a main product of combustion would be carbon dioxide. Getting back the carbon monoxide product with yellow burning gas, carbon monoxide will disproportionate to carbon (soot) and carbon dioxide. The chemical reaction is 2CO = C + CO2. This reaction is speeded up at lower temperatures particularly in contact with metals such as iron. The lower temperature explains why the carbon deposits occur on the logs in the front because they are lower in temperature. The disproportionation of carbon monoxide (CO) not only depends on temperature but on material. Certain glassy materials will completely inhibit the decomposition of carbon monoxide. One such material is quartz. Namely because of their chemical makeup, certain fireplace logs can inhibit suit formation and others will accelerate suit deposits. I am in need of a log material/manufacturer which will minimize carbon monoxide disproportionation and suit formation. Please contact me (by e-mail) for help and more information.

theblaiser While probably not telling you anything you don't already know, you have two of the most expensive forms of fuel for winter heating. I am attaching a fuel comparison calculator which will give you a close estimate. You will need the efficiency on your LP gas stove/inserts. Of course the baseboard electric heat has no efficiency. Just plug in the electric cost and the calculator will spit out a cost for baseboard heat. It appears LP is more expensive using an average electric cost of $.115/kw. A high eff heat pump would save you some significant $$$. Hope this is helpful. IMO Here is a link that might be useful: Fuel Comparison Calculator

Thank you all for the fast responses. I do intend on having the problem resolved before we use the dryer - the question I had was who to call first. I think I will start with the appliance company to make sure the air/fuel mixture was adjusted properly. This should be zero cost to me since we paid for a white glove service and should be covered under that. The dryer we ordered was LP but they shipped a NG unit. A service tech had to come out and put the converter in - but I suspect that there are adjustments that need to be made. Once I know that the appliance has been set up correctly - and if the long yellow flames persist - then I will call the gas company. They will gladly come out - but I have to pay for the call if there is nothing wrong with he service. My house is at 1250 feet above sea level. Perhaps the appliance was set for sea level performance and needs to be adjusted for my higher elevation. Again - thanks very much for the very quick responses. I will post back once I have the problem resolved.