Bill, thank you for your response. I'd always thought of caulk as not being much of a good fix for most things, because it never seems to hold up well or for long. Wouldn't this be the case here, or is tile different, or is there a special caulk used with tile that you're referring to that is more durable that that used between a tub and a tile wall? After thinking about this some more, it's clear that I need to consider Plan B and do the L configuration if it's to work at all because of the tile situation. So the next question is: --How far back would he likely have put the mud base? When we remodeled our old place, the mud went to the wall at the back of the vanity. --Is this what is normally done? If the tiler slapped down 12 x 12 sheets of the 2" tile, there probably is about 5" under the existing cabinet. If the mud base goes to the back of this vanity, that would give me another 13", giving me ~18" total depth, and I have enough leftover sheets of tile to cover this. --So if the mud base is there, shouldn't we be able to lay tile on it? --If the mud base is too rough, can it be either ground down in the high places or filled in with the setting compound? --How deep can the setting compound be and still do its job properly? Thanks for whatever clarity you can provide! Anne

Bud, PLEASE!! People will talk! 1) Although tile WILL help with the longevity (it'll protect the ceiling much better than paint will) it's not necessary, so long as the shower isn't completely enclosed by the glass. If it's completely enclosed, then tile is pretty much a must. 2) Install a light in the shower! most people do, anyway, whether or not it gets tile on the ceiling.

The only ones I've had an issue with were Marazzi, and that was from several years ago but over a period of several years, and Florida Tile, which was from awhile ago too. I can't recall having touched Florida Tile since. Marazzi, I think they have gotten better. The issue with them back in the day was the tiles were just so varied in size. Open a box, stand the tiles on edge (like a deck of cards on edge) and it shows how out of square and varied in size they are across each dimension. I can't say the last time I used Marazzi...maybe last year in 2010? But they were pretty much standard then, I had no out of the ordinary issues. Some tile is only rated for wall use, some wall and floor rated. If the tile has a "glaze pattern", some are applied with screens, like silk screens. Look closely and you can see the screen grid within the glaze. Also, ask how often the pattern repeats in a box. A manufacturer might only have 7 patterns or 15 patterns. In a large room using a tile with a low number of patterns, the repetitive pattern could be apparent after the tiles are set. Through-body versus a surface glaze could be a consideration regarding cut edges. For the most part though, porcelain is porcelain. 2" and 3" squares will both conform to the pitch changes in the shower floor. Most shower drain covers are 4" squares, which nests nicely within a field of 2" tiles. 2" tiles will also give more grout lines, which can aid in foot traction and minimize slips in the shower. There are myriad ways to do a sink backsplash, there's no hard right or wrong. But sure, a tiled wainscot can look lovely, especially with a pedestal sink that shows off more of the wall. If you go that route, take the added wall thickness into consideration when positioning the toilet flange in the floor.

I agree with his fix, although I'd be using siliconized latex caulk from the same company that made the grout. In fact, it shouldn't be "the fix". It should've been done that way in the first place. I would have him score out the rest of the grout in that joint around the shower and caulk the entire thing, because the rest of it WILL come out, sooner or later.