I think this kind of thing could happen to anyone using any brand gas grill, so it's a good warning to check all connections carefully before grilling. I confess I only checked the tank to regulator and regulator hose for leaks prior to my first usage of the Virco. The manual did say to also check the gas control valves, but I couldn't figure out how to get to them. I guess I could see them from underneath if I lay on my back, so that's what I'll do next time. I also recall that propane is heavier than air, unlike natural gas, which is lighter than air. So the propane can settle in low places and collect and then explode. Also, as I have recently noticed, a new steel propane container may react with the odorant in the propane charge, and the result is that it can be harder to detect leaks. Lots of people are probably buying new propane tanks with OPD valves rather than retrofit their old ones, so perhaps some extra caution is needed for the first tankful or so. All this makes me wonder if perhaps I may be installing the natural gas conversion kit sooner than I expected...;-) Here is a link that might be useful: Propane safety

I think I found the message talking about this. Mine didn't come out of the oven shiney as they first were. Of course they were only shiney the first day prior to use. ha ha But they were clean. Afterwards I made my first grilled pizza with homemade dough. Oiled the grates and dough and it didn't stick at all. Here is a link that might be useful: oven clean grids

Alek, I enjoyed looking at all the info on your web site. Recently I saw a NG Y0660 that had been returned to Sam's Club because the buyer really needed the LPG version. It was a bit dented-up in the front, and missing the rotisserie parts. Sam's wanted $700 for it. I started the task of trying to figure out just what it would take to convert it to propane and to repair the cosmetic damage. When I realized that the valves would have to be replaced, as well as the orifices, both doors and one drawer, as well as all the missing rotisserie parts, I almost bagged the idea, but decided to call Grand Hall and check on parts prices anyway. Am I ever glad that I did! The prices were so reasonable that the total cost to convert to LPG and restore the grill to new condition was only $270.00 including shipping. When my offer of $500.00 was accepted by the manager at Sam's I picked up the grill and ordered the parts. I've installed them all, with the exception of one valve that was not correct, a missing bracket to mount the rotisserie motor, and slides for the tank drawer ... basically just "noise-level" problems. Haven't had a chance to use the grill yet, as the weather hasn't been too cooperative, but I'm looking forward to it. My total cost for an "almost new" Y0660 grill is now $770.00. ! ! ! ! ! ! S C O R E ! ! ! ! ! ! There are a few things that I've learned from this exercise that I'd like to pass along: 1) Grand Hall's customer service folks are great! Their policies are pretty good too ... with the incorrect part it was "Oh, we'll get a replacement out today", not "Send it back and we'll see ...". 2) If you know what you need, and how to ask for it, you *CAN* buy the parts to convert these grills from NG to LPG and from LPG to NG. 3) The parts costs are ludicrously low ... the main valves, which include the orifice are only $5.00 each, and the side burner and rotisserie valves are $8.00 each, as they include a little more hardware. It probably makes more sense to just buy the darned things than to do the drilling for the LPG to NG conversion, and it's WAYYY better to buy for the NG to LPG conversion than to try filling and redrilling with smaller holes. 4) Rather than actually replacing the valves, which can be difficult to get off the manifold of the Y0660, it's better to just swap the valve cores and the orifices. I don't know for sure if the valves are common between the Y0660 and the smaller Y0101XC, but the conversion pictures on your site look identical. For example, the main burner gas valve part number is P03222007A for LPG. Also, the valve bodies have the number "0404A" cast into the side. This is the same for the NG and the LPG valves. How does this compare to the part number & valves for the Y0101XC? I have a full set of parts for anyone wanting to convert from LPG to NG. I'd also be interested in that guage that you've got left over from your conversion,...

Bgol, There is a safety device in the connector just before the regulator. There is a small ball that will stop or restrict the flow from the tank to the regulator. It is designed to stop flow if the hose ruptures, etc. If the tank valve is opened too fast, you will send the little ball crashing into the end of the fitting nearest the regulator where it might stick and restrict the flow. While you are wating for a response from Grand Hall or a new regulator, you can try this. If you are mechanically inclined, unscrew the fitting from the regulator. Try to blow both forward and backward through the fitting. If you can't free the ball this way, tap the tank end of the fitting on a piece of wood. If that does not work, you can try to gently push the ball back with a small wire. Be careful not to damage the small spring in there. If you get to this point, you may get it working but should replace the regulator under waranty. If you get the ball unstuck, reattach everything. Use some sealer (teflon, etc from the hardware store) on the threads going into the regulator. Good luck, Bill