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Radon Mitigation System Installation

12 years ago

I'm looking at installing a radon mitigation system. I have a two flu fireplace - one is used for wood burning fireplace on the first floor. The second flu was intended for a wood burning stove in the basement - which I have no intention of using. Can I pipe the radon out the flu?

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Comments (2)

dreamgarden
12 years ago
We bought a house this year. Had the home inspector test it for radon. Measured 5 in our basement. Still trying to decide what type of mitigation to pursue but I like your idea of venting it through the flue.

They say radon levels can vary from room to room (or different floors) and that these levels can fluctuate throughout the year. We didn't want to have to pay for more tests so we bought a radon detector that can be plugged into the wall 24/7.

We plan to see how the measurements are on all 3 floors before we decide how to mitigate.

I'll be watching this thread to see what others say. Any feedback about the type of detector I purchased would be helpful (thanks!).

A link that might be useful:

www.4radon.com/ssradeforinu.html
worthy
12 years ago
Radon gas must be evacuated in a PVC piping. That can be placed in the chimney flue. But if you're using an active system, i.e., an exhaust fan, placing the fan at the top will be tricky. A passive radon system doesn't require a fan but may not be adequate.

Here is a link that might be useful: Building Science Corp.:Soil-Gas Control
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It seems to me you have three concerns: 1) "The reading is still high." It may take a period of time to reduce the reading. 2) A dehumidifier does not cool the air; actually, it warms the air but reduces its moisture content. 3) If the basement is still humid, you may have an undersized dehumidifier. Your basement windows must be closed for the dehumidifier(s) to be effective.
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If you live in an area it freezes, the second option is contraindicated. The condensate in the system will freeze inside the pipe and block it. It takes up as much room as a 3" or 4" pipe if exposed, or a small wall bumpout (vertical bulkhead) to hide it. It does not take up much space in the interior, and if you need an active system, the fan is installed in the attic. In retrofits, where a system is installed in an older home, it is often run through a closet, out of sight. Any active system should have vibrations mitigated to stop noise transfer in the house. Passive system does not have this problem.
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That is pretty much the going rate to install a mitigation system. Another alternative is sealing everything, use of natural ventilation, or you can pressurize a room you work in or even an entire basement.
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I di not hear mine at all inside and only if i put my ear to the unit outside do I hear it. I often think it might not be working.
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