Price of hanging and taping drywall
sister_lee
17 years ago
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stacey5659
17 years agoamc9915_hotmail_com
17 years agoRelated Discussions
Can I seal vent to drywall with Duct Tape?
Comments (7)you are welcome. Hardcast 1402 is not sold at box stores it is a hvac supply product. foil tapes won't adhere to the sheetrock and the metal flange. mastic tape will. as you can see in pic it is silver with red writing. box stores may carry Nashua brand mastic tape an inferior product in my experience. mastic is thin, adhesion is not as strong. not worth the labor to replace when it fails IMO. here is an ebay link..not where I purchase from... but quick google search of product: http://www.ebay.com/itm/HVAC-Hardcast-AFG-1402-Rolled-Mastic-Duct-Sealant-Tape-3-x100-Topmost-Quality-/321032199173 take a look at the link..so you'll have an idea of what the roll looks like. not silver with blue writing...red writing.. other types do not seal long term pricy, but worth it as it lasts...according to johnston supply specs for 40 years. I can only vouch for 15 years when I first started using Hardcast. I have a real problem with having to go back & re-work previous work..thus the use of this specific brand of specific tape. if surfaces are clean & dry...it will seal to just about everything, stucco, cement & dirt excepted. once you use this product...you'll use it for lots of things. best of luck....See MoreReplace lifted drywall tape, prep work
Comments (6)If you are really perfectionist types but don't want to pay a painter, maybe try to find a drywaller just to come and do those repairs. If he's only there under and hour it may not even cost more than 100 dollars. 6 estimates is too many to get when you are looking for painters. Try asking friends if they know any that did work for them. That is the best way. Yes, painting is a loser a job that anyone can do, but still these guys at least want to make a living, even though it may not be enough to raise a family and all this, they still want to pay the rent. There are however rip off contractors and gougers out there too so I understand that and this is true of any business. Anyway, what I do with drywall repairs when there is tape coming loose is this: first, I address the repair and decide if I want to use mesh tape or real drywall tape. Mesh tape is easier for a DIY'er because it will stick by itself because it has adhesive on it. Drywall tape has to be embedded into a layer of wet drywall mud. I would buy both at the store and use what you like best...both are cheap. First, you cut out the failing tape with a very sharp utility knife. I always make sure to make the cut perfect and totally through the paper so that when you pull on it to remove it you don't end up pulling out a bunch more than you want. If it is a seam in the center of a wall or ceiling, it's easy to just cut out the bad, then sand the area to remove any debris, use a drywall knife/blade to fill the area with drywall mud, and then embed the tape into that and skim over lightly. This will be your first coat. After this is dry, you can lightly sand again and lay on another coat of mud. Remember that the tape is sitting on top of the drywall, unless there is a real seam there, so you may need to 'float' the drywall mud over the top of that tape to disguise that there is a hump there. This is where the pro really shines and the homeowners get lost because they may put way too much mud on and then have to sand forever to get it all smooth and of course it rarely comes out looking perfect. Just keep in mind that whatever mud you are applying, this will need to be sanded and sanding creates dust and isn't a very fun job so the idea is to minimize the sanding step if you can by applying the mud properly. If the failing tape is in a corner, sometimes I may just use my utility knife to cut out just the portion that is failing and then just fill that with mud and skip the taping step entirely. It depends on the size of the repair and the integrity of the tape. Every repair is different. Also, there is no guarantee that the tape will never fail again. If there is movement behind the wall in the studs (which there always is) any repairs you do can come back and you may have to do them again. Every house has these recurring nail pops, cracks, etc. where even if the repairs are done perfectly, they can still return. Some repairs do stay repaired forever though. It just depends on a bunch of factors as always. Good luck!...See Moredrywall tape questions
Comments (12)I don't know if this will help or not, but the best advice I ever got from a professional finisher (Curly, I think they called him) was that it's all in the angle of the knife. At the time I didn't understand what he was talking about, but as I got more experienced I came to realize that getting the right knife angle on each swipe is the main difference between a fast, smooth job and and slow, bumpy job. I'm not talking about an angle you measure with a protractor, rather the angle you "feel" is right based on how the material responds. Curly also emphasized the importance of a sharp edge to your knife, way sharper than comes with a new knife. He also pointed out that the 12" knife is slightly bowed, and for feathering it's best to keep that concave side up as you spread. Best of luck!...See MoreTaping drywall seams
Comments (5)Easysand is better for a beginner. Both Durabond and Easysand are setting type joint compounds mixed from powder. They harden by chemical reaction (like plaster) not evaporation (like drywall premix). Use at least Easysand90 or Durabond 90. The 90 is the approximate hardening time in minutes. I would tape the seams with fiberglass mesh and then use Easysand. No need to prefill. The material will push through the mesh without a problem. Mix the Easysand about as thick as peanut butter to nearly eliminate shrinkage....See Morejimbo60
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