Bathroom plumbing rough in for future finishing?
drewem
12 years ago
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worthy
12 years agomohonri
12 years agoRelated Discussions
Basement Bathroom rough in question
Comments (1)I suggest posting your questions and illustration on the Plumbing forum. Believe you'll get better expertise there. Here's what I think will be recommended: WC drain being 3". The new 5-litre toilets are coded for a smaller diameter drain in order to assure water actually washes everything clean. Lav being 1.5", same logic. I'll be following information you gather as I'm probably going to do similar next summer. Good luck....See Morebathroom fixtures finishes and quality
Comments (7)As far as the way they add the finish to the faucet, look for PVD - physical vapor deposited. It's a molecular bond son won't peel off. But some "living finishes" like ORB are warranteed, they will change with use/cleaning. I'm not sure about Delta's ORB (I hope it's covered, I bought all Venetian Bronze fixtures for my new master bath!), but their "Brilliance" finishes are PVD and have a limited lifetime warranty for the original purchaser. Chrome is probably the finish that holds up the best, polished brass (other than PVD) is lacquered and the lacquer wears off and it tarnishes, I don't really know much about brushed nickel and other special finishes but I'd say look for PVD and the manufacturer's warranty, avoid "living finishes" and you'll be OK. I don't know how "limited" it is, but I had chrome in my old house and they sent me a few pieces (not that long after installation) - a cartridge for a diverter valve that melted b/c my water was too hot, and a plastic cover for faucet set-screw that was discolored. I found some finish damage on my ORB Roman tub faucet (not installed yet) right out of the box and they sent me a replacement faucet. Hooked up my handshower to the hose and shower arm just to test it out and couldn't get anything through the wand, called them to ask if I was missing something (removing a cap or something?) in installation procedure, they said if water coming through the hose it should be coming through the wand, and they are sending me a new handshower piece (NOT an inexpensive part!). I am going to sound like a Delta rep (I don't work for them but have been a Delta faucet owner for 15+ yrs in 2 houses), but have to say that they have probably rhe best customer service, not only for bath/kitchen plumbing fixtures, but of *any* company that I have ever dealt with. Though I haven't dealt with Moen, Hansgrohe (have a HG handshower mounted on shower arm in main bath), Grohe, etc. Back to original question - besides finish, look at the construction. Heavy is good - usually means brass, though you'll pay more. Some faucets may have plastic pieces (areators, etc.) but the fewer the better b/c they will peel/chip and discolor. Washerless is good, cartridge is better, ceramic disk is the best (longest life, lower maintenance) but you'll pay for it up front. It's hard to take the leap of faith and buy online, but I'd say buy online for prices but read description carefully, look at return policy in case it's not what you expected. I bought all my Delta bronze fixtures online, but I know I can trust Delta to make anything right. Last house we bought (Delta again) through bath showroom. I would avoid the big-box stores since they often get a line (from same manufacturer) that looks like the high-end designs, but have lower-quality construction (plastic, washers instead of brass, ceramic) and finishes than what you'd buy from a showroom/plumbing supply. I bought the HG handshower at HD, it's mostly plastic, but it was only $50 on clearance, it's working fine after 4+ years with at least 2 and sometimes 4 showers a day (our only full bath so far). But it's not the quality of the Delta I bought for either house, and I'm sure it's not the quality you'd get buying HG or Grohe from a plumbing supply. Good luck!...See MoreBathroom Reveal, Thanks to the Bathroom and Remodel Forums! (pic
Comments (56)This old thread got revisited. @dani_m08 to answer the question about extra probe, I believe I ordered an extra one when I bought the set up. The probe wire is just setting in the junction box I think but honestly I cant remember. When I laid out the underfloor heating and the probe, I just ran another probe near the first probe, and it was then sealed into the floor self leveling compound as per instructions. then the end was just threaded into the wall like the one that would be live, and not connected, but just laying there in the box. Regarding the tile layout. I just decided to run it this way, after getting instructions on the 90Degree way, IIRC. The herringbone that I love is from my childhood and the side walks in my neighborhood that all ran at 45Degree. so that to me is herringbone. I know you posted on @sochi thread about her amazing bathroom and a wall mounted faucet. I would totally do it if I had the right sink for it. In my case I had made my sink out of soapstone and an integrated backsplash. The pictures of this bathroom reveal are no longer available because of the use of photo bucket, when it was Gardenweb. I did not keep my account with photo bucket. I'll add some of the reveal pictures so you can see the sink and floor. Regarding the sink there is no ledge for water to drip from my hands when using the faucet. The water drips right into the sink. In my other bathroom with a deck mounted faucet I am always wiping up drips and it is a nuisance. I much prefer the setup for this sink. Below: I love the flush finish from the faucet to the bottom of the sink. nothing drips on a counter or edge of a sink. Below: looking in from the doorway. Below: Here I am finishing up the sink. the backsplash was epoxied on as a separate piece. The whole soapstone install in the room took next to nothing to buy as they were all small pieces that I epoxied together with a 3 part stone epoxy. Below: this is the counter at the tub, and is in 2 long pieces but I was able to epoxy them together at there edges to make a wide slab for the top. All the soapstone was finished with a 60 grit sandpaper to be rough and this lovely soft tone of blue/green/gray/white. I did not oil it so this color tone would remain light. Below: If I recall correctly @sochi helped me decide on this Hubberton Forge Mirror. I have 3 different metals in this room, but they are all a cool silver to black color. Below: the center of this tower shares space with the kitchen on the other side of the wall. there is also some extra space that houses some electrical wiring. this is an old simple house. this bathroom was an add on when it got move to the farm in the 30s IIRC. The plumbing was all rearrange and some of the details that were orignially there I kept but updated it, such as this tower feature. The old one went and the carpenter did a wonderful job with this one. Below: This feature was another thing I kept from the old bathroom but flipped it from the other end and had the carpenter put drawers in it. Before it was a hell hole. things got lost and the build was soooo old and creapy I didn't like using it for storage. Now it is perfect for storage....See Morebasement bathroom plumbing questions
Comments (10)Under the UPC (Uniform Plumbing Code) the shower pan must have a rough pan that is 34" x 34" Under the IRC (International Residential Code) the shower pan must have a rough pan that is 32" x 32" The shower must have a minimum 30" finished interior clearance rising vertical to a point 72" above the finished drain. The floor must pitch at a minimum 1/4" per foot and a maximum 1/2" per foot to the drain opening. The door must be a minimum of 22" wide and open outwards The top of the threshold must be a minimum of 4" above the elevation of the finished drain, but not more than 9" above the drain opening. The drain is generally put in the center of the shower, but technically it may be put anywhere within the shower enclosure. I have seen many showers where the drain was put just inside the head wall because the distance from the center to the vent opening exceeded the maximum length of the fixture arm. A tub/shower may have an 1-1/2" drain, but a shower must have a 2" drain line....See Morelazypup
12 years agoJanieful
11 years agostir_fryi SE Mich
11 years ago
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drewemOriginal Author