Basement with half wall--insulation questions
mohonri
12 years ago
Featured Answer
Sort by:Oldest
Comments (19)
worthy
12 years agomohonri
12 years agoRelated Discussions
Cornfused - Exterior wall insulation/construction
Comments (32)Welcome to the confusing and controversial world of building envelopes. To further simplify and confuse: Airtight is most important, and thermal bridging is more important than R value (to a point). Fine Homebuilding has a new Lstibureck article out on foam sheathing that is a must read for those interested in this topic. A couple takeaways: choose XPS over EPS. Strongly consider a rain screen. Upgrading to 2x6 gets you another 2" of CAVITY insulation. If youre considering foam sheathing then hopefully you know the many weaknesses of cavity insulation. I would prefer thicker foam sheathing staying with 2x4. I would also put the housewrap on the outside of the foam. Its not doing you much good between the sheathing and foam. If you get the right thickness of foam sheathing(as jlizer suggests is 1.5") then youre sheathing will generally be kept warmer than condensation temps. The real challenge of course is preventing what happens in worthy's pic. This is possible to do with tapes (ZIP system, others) and sealants but having a house wrap to integrate with flashing is a nice detail that doesnt rely on a particular chemical companies formulation. Havent done the double stud wall yet but to me it seems more trouble than its worth. It doesnt reduce thermal bridges at plates or your floor bands and eats a tremendous amount of interior floor space while reducing the amount of light (and heat for passive solar) that your windows let in. I would consider the ICFs for basement. @Robin; not everywhere else because they are expensive and dont take to changes very well. Better yet, look at pre-cast concrete walls (Superior is one brand) The complications listed above with wall thicknesses and furring for siding is one of the many reasons we have been using SIPS. Its great you are aware of the importance of air sealing. Strongly recommend you have a blower door test done at the framing stage. What you dont measure you cant improve. Here is a link that might be useful: Blower Door Test Explanation w pictures and diagrams...See MoreExterior wall insulation
Comments (7)Not sure if this is a duplicate of a recent post, but you really have to ask yourself if this is worth doing at all in a warm climate. Far more cost effective to concentrate on air sealing and good insulation in the attic and basement. As for the foam over stucco as used in Europe, what I've seen in photographs is incredibly ugly - looks like the worst of Soviet architecture as practiced under Stalin. Then there's the hugely labor intensive process of adjusting all the exterior trim. Unless you are faced with very high electric rates for summer air conditioning, wall insulation under your conditions strikes me as totally unnecessary....See MoreInsulating Basement Before Finishing Half of It
Comments (1)How appropriate a topic as it's hitting -23˚ C. (-9.4˚ F.) tonight here in the banana belt of Canada! 1) If you choose polyisocyanurate, follow building experts' advice and consider the R Value as R5 per inch and increase accordingly. I always use XPS as it's much cheaper. 2) Adhesives are really designed for block walls, which are perfectly smooth. All the imperfections in a typical poured wall--especially those ridges where the forms were connected--make it virtually impossible to get a tight bond between the foam boards and the walls. Instead use mechanical anchors designed for the purpose, such as Hilti plastic insulation anchors. Also, if you can find them, consider four foot wide XPS. And always use shiplap boards, which seal well even without tape. 3) R-10 is inadequate in climate Zone 5, where IECC 2012 calls for R15 continuous. You can reduce the cost by using 1-1.5" foam board on the walls followed by fg between the studs. EPS boards are acceptable, too, though they will be thicker to reach the same R Value. 4) Any tape approved for housewrap will work well. I use Tuck Building tape. 5-6) As long as the freestanding walls are airtight and insulated to Code, there's no need to insulate the unfinished walls. 7) See 3 above. 8) I would rest the stud wall on strips of XPS--tight to the foam wall if you wish. Besides acting as a thermal break, it keeps the wall above any minor flooding that might occur. 9) Foam cushion is not an acceptable sub-floor. It will absorb moisture and harbour mold growth. Unless you're using tile or stone, which can be laid directly--though an uncoupling membrane is advisable--consider using: 1) a layer of XPS followed by one or two layers of ply (as per diagram below); 2)Dri-Core or similar competitive products; or 3) DeltaFL or equivalent.Source: Building Science Corp....See MoreBasement half wall Help
Comments (5)You can put whatever you want in the studded wall. I see you bought the pink foam board. That should be extruded insulation which will be a good application directly on the foundation wall. 1-1/2" is ok. I'd think about more. I think code here is 3". Many say don't put fiberglass batts in the studs over the foam, but if your basement is dry, it's probably ok. I've done it without problems...See Moremohonri
12 years agoworthy
12 years agoDickRNH
12 years agoworthy
12 years agoDickRNH
12 years agoworthy
12 years agomohonri
12 years agoworthy
12 years agoDickRNH
12 years agomohonri
12 years agoworthy
12 years agomohonri
12 years agoworthy
12 years agomohonri
12 years agoworthy
12 years agomohonri
12 years ago
Related Stories
REMODELING GUIDESCool Your House (and Costs) With the Right Insulation
Insulation offers one of the best paybacks on your investment in your house. Here are some types to discuss with your contractor
Full StoryWINDOW TREATMENTSEasy Green: 9 Low-Cost Ways to Insulate Windows and Doors
Block drafts to boost both warmth and energy savings with these inexpensive but effective insulating strategies
Full StoryREMODELING GUIDESConsidering a Fixer-Upper? 15 Questions to Ask First
Learn about the hidden costs and treasures of older homes to avoid budget surprises and accidentally tossing valuable features
Full StoryLIGHTING5 Questions to Ask for the Best Room Lighting
Get your overhead, task and accent lighting right for decorative beauty, less eyestrain and a focus exactly where you want
Full StoryREMODELING GUIDESSurvive Your Home Remodel: 11 Must-Ask Questions
Plan ahead to keep minor hassles from turning into major headaches during an extensive renovation
Full StoryGREEN BUILDINGInsulation Basics: Heat, R-Value and the Building Envelope
Learn how heat moves through a home and the materials that can stop it, to make sure your insulation is as effective as you think
Full StoryMATERIALSInsulation Basics: What to Know About Spray Foam
Learn what exactly spray foam is, the pros and cons of using it and why you shouldn’t mess around with installation
Full StoryGREEN BUILDINGInsulation Basics: Designing for Temperature Extremes in Any Season
Stay comfy during unpredictable weather — and prevent unexpected bills — by efficiently insulating and shading your home
Full StoryORGANIZINGPre-Storage Checklist: 10 Questions to Ask Yourself Before You Store
Wait, stop. Do you really need to keep that item you’re about to put into storage?
Full Story
worthy