Just plain old cool white fluorescents. Here is a link that might be useful: light setup

Go to Home Depot and pick up a 4' Flouescent shoplight. Cost less than $9. Pick up a couple 40w tubes bulbs and your good to go. Hang the lights on small chain so you can raise the lights as the seedlings grow. Keep the lights about 2" from the seedlings $20 bucks tops for the ballast, bulbs and chain! Here is my setup and it has works beautifully. I cleared out a rack on my garage shelves and hung two of the lights in there

I took over an upstairs bedroom to start seeds indoors. I bought a couple mini-greenhouse assemblies and hang lights from short chains. I can fit 15 trays under the lights. I used 4' shop lights with cool bulbs. I have read that it might be better to use one cool and one warm but I've found the seedlings do just fine with what I have. I leave the lights on 24 x 7. The lights should be about 2" above the seedlings in the tray. For the most part I use the basic cellpack trays that hold 8 6-packs. Keep the lids on the trays until the seedlings sprout. I started using a potting soil from my local hardware store. But then I found smaller bags from Ocean State Big Lots for much less money and the seedlings did just as well. I hadn't even paid attention to if it had fertilizer included in the mix. I did use a liquid root stimulater root fertilizer on the perennials I started. I also did some repotting of mainly perennials into yogurt cups and 3" pots this year. I started perennial seeds in Feb and Mar and planted them out in early May for the most part. I moved one of my greenhouses outside for the hardening off process while other seeds were still inside under the lights. The green seedling trays in this picture were $1 from Christmas Tree Shops and worked great when I only wanted a small amount of a particular plant. I started the seeds over a couple different timeframes. I started the perennials first and got them off to a good start and then started a lot of annuals in early-April. I did a lot of wintersowing this winter as well. I have the space to start indoors and I found the seedlings were much larger than those I WS'd and many are blooming already. It does take much more work though (and $$ for electricity).

I sow seed when I get it...and that is mostly in autumn, from saved, swapped or collected seed. Some seeds, such as primula, are best sown while still fresh and green - they have not entered dormancy and will germinate easily and quickly...while many umbellifers will only grow from very fresh seed, losing viability in weeks. I sow in 4inch pots rather than direct (although I do sow straight into the soil with hardy annuals and a few perennials if seed is plentiful). I do have to make some effort to protect the seed pots (from blackbirds and mice) but in general, I try to follow a natural sowing method and get the seeds in soil to either stratify over winter or germinate and possibly lose the top-growth until spring (I have gentians doing exactly that...and shrubs such as styrax, schisandra and symplocos). I have never used gibberellins, peroxide, citric acids etc...nor do I stratify in the fridge. OTOH, keeping it simple also means accepting fails...especially tricksy things (like styrax) which go into deep double dormancy and require specific germination triggers. My solution to that is to be as profligate as nature and sow loads (for a typically 70% success rate). The fails are actually a relief, particularly since I invariably fail to consider the huge number of pots, soil and space needed once the pricking out and potting up gets going...although the greatest losses occur over the first summer (I plant in autumn too as I have no access to irrigation).