I would post a pic but I haven't been able to figure out how to do that on this site. I can describe it a little better though. The frame is made of two by fours and is two rectangles connected with uprights at the corners. It is 3 feet wide by 4 feet long by 3 feet tall and it works for about 25 chicks. The top is plywood and is hinged on one side so I can open it up to put food and water in. The bottom is also plywood and it connects to the box with 4 hinged latches (the ones that have have a rectangular piece with a slit in the middle that flips over a D shaped projection on the other side, hopefully you'll know what I mean) one at each corner. I use dog leash clips through the D on the latches to lock the bottom on. I bolted my nephew's training wheels to one end of the box and put long handles on the other end (like a wheel barrow). The sides are chicken wire but if I had to do it again I would make them hardware cloth because when they're really little they can stick their heads through. I also have an old wooden broomstick that I set up as a roosting pole in there. They start using it pretty quickly and it keeps them cleaner because they aren't sleeping in their poop. When I put the chicks on the grass I take out their food and water so it doesn't spill and roll the box off the porch onto the grass. I unlatch the bottom and then very carefully roll the box forward off the bottom. I have to watch to make sure I don't pinch any toes. The wheels lift one side of the box off the ground a little bit so I put a piece of wood on that side to keep the chicks from escaping. Then I put the water and food back and I take the bottom and hose it off so it's clean for that night. When they are about 4 weeks I usually have to move the box a couple times or the grass gets too trampled.

Kwanzan Cherry Trees, Crape Myrtles, Dogwood, or Yoshino? ===>> the first and the last are two types of the same.. if not the same ... flowering cherry in my z5 MI ... no such thing as a CM ... dogwoods are variable depending on native or foo foo .. and wind.. especially in winter ... no cacti grow in my z5 .. except maybe the prickly pear ... if that is a true cacti the cherry type trees of washington DC ... sometimes they bloom.. sometimes they dont.. depending on my z5 frost freeze after bud set ... micro climate rules on those ... as well as them dying outright in a bad z5 winter .... so it all matters which z5 ... many peeps in no drain clay .. plant only half to the root mass in the clay.. and berm above and around .. allowing the tree to live long enough with drainage .. to put its roots where it can cope with the native soil ... the deal with z5.. is that MI z5.. is much different than say kansas city z5 ... zone is simply put ... min winter temps ... one day .... one minute in time in the dead of winter ... to exaggerate for impact ... summer in z5 can be the opposite issue.. as to what can cope year round.. though perhaps this issue is not as great when outside the world of conifers ... further south z5 has severe summer humidity problems ... give us a major city ... NEVER amend a planting hole ... unless you really know what you are doing ... the problem with really bad clay.. is that you basically dig a cauldron ... which water will never drain out of .... and there arent many trees that like to live in a tub of water.. roots need air.. as much as they need moisture ... so the half in.. half out idea.. allows the tree to put its roots where it can cope... and if you accept the cauldron idea.. you should understand.. that adding anything into the cauldron.. is NOT going to make water drain any faster.. and many things thrown in holes.. actually RETAIN more water.. like anything peat based ... to suggest your general area is completely devoid of trees ... and no tree can ever live in your clay ... is probably not reality ... trees can definitely grow and cope with any clay ... and your 40 year old concolor is a prime example.. the real issue is the fact that you are moving and planting a tree.. and can it 'cope'.. due to the transplant.. until it can take care of itself.. which is a short way of saying.. its the human touch that will kill them ... i still maintain.. there are very few trees that can not deal with it ... otherwise zone appropriate ... if they are properly planted .. and cared for ... anyway.. if you cant tell.. i am stills struggling to stay awake.. to go pick her up form the dance in a 30 minutes ... i figured what you meant on the fruiting .. just trying to clarify your ideas into concepts that can be discussed ... just trying to focus you on the thought process .. without suggesting that everyone elses replys are 'blatent misinformation'... anyway.. did the variegation do anything for mom .. or is that too far outside the box.. lol ... its more of a walk out there and enjoy it often.. rather than gaze at it from the window type thing.. depending on distance from house ... redbud might be a very early pink ... seedlings probably wont be an issue in grass ... and my 25 year old one that came with the house.. didnt go much beyond 25 feet ... i cant recall any special fall color on the heart shaped leaves ... see link .. oh yeah.. add 'in fall' to the search .. and its a lemon yellow ... though there is a red one there called 'Charlotte Eastern Redbud'.. and i know nothing about that one ... 4th pic ken ps: i suspect we are reading much more into your description of your soil.. than you mean to imply ... have you ever done a perk test.. dig a hole .. fill with water.. and find out how fast it drains ... and frankly .. if it drains at all.. you do NOT have 'bad' clay ... i bet december is not the best to to try this.. as in my z5.. the soil has been frozen for 10 days already ... Here is a link that might be useful: blooms before it leafs out.. sometimes in a light spring snow .. in my z5

Hi McMann... SY (Second Year) males hatched the year before, migrated to Brazil, and returned this spring. They are considered immature, but some will breed. This is what their coloring looks like. From a distance they sometimes resemble females, but their throats are dark and mottled, and there will be at least a few black feathers on their chests. Some are heavily spotted, some have only one or two dark feathers. This is a very light, and lightly spotted, SY male. Here is a much darker, and much more heavily spotted, SY male, although they are both the same age. They hatched the privious season. This fall they will again migrate to Brazil and go through their molting into fully-mature adult plummage. When they return next spring they will be called ASY (After Second Year) males...and they will look like this! Big, bold, dark, beautiful, and iridescenting purple. Once they make this transformation, they will look the same the rest of their lives, whether they're two years old, or 15. These are not my photos. I only wish I could get shots this great. They were shared by other PM lovers.

A load-bearing wall can be removed but you will need to either have a header installed and/or support columns. I think it would be a shame to have a wall between the kitchen and banquette so people couldn't visit better between the two areas. It might be possible to put an opening in that wall so that people can see and talk to each other without a wall blocking them without having to install a header because most of the wall could still be left intact. Something to discuss with the experts anyway. I like keeping the banquette closer to the dining area so overflow seating could be in there without totally separating people into two separate rooms. I like both versions 1 & 2. Nice idea, Lavender! If they go with v2, I suggest moving the wall ovens to just inside the door. Since you're not actually working at the oven, just putting stuff in/out and maybe checking it once in awhile, someone opening that door wouldn't be disturbing someone working there. I would put the prep sink near the wall oven and move the range down to where the wall oven is now. My thinking on this is that if someone rushes in through that door, if they bump into someone working at the sink, there is probably not too much chance of any kind of real injury occurring. However, if they bump into someone who is just pull a big hot pot of soup off the stove, Yikes! I would just feel better if the cooktop was more removed from possible traffic issues.