What flowers will survive the Texas heat?
pandorah
16 years ago
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missinformation
16 years ago
jolanaweb
16 years agoRelated Discussions
Need Red Roses That Can Take Texas Heat
Comments (17)Veteran's Honor IS true carnation red, at least on the petal fronts. The reverse is just a little lighter red, but the overall effect is straight-ahead red. It has consistently big, full, shapely blooms no matter the weather. Plus a modest but definitely detectable raspberry fragrance. I'd still pick it first. Opening Night for me was just so-so in the heat of summer. It really excels in spring and late fall, here. It's best feature is its intensely saturated red coloring. Bloom size is good but I still think Vet's Honor's form is better. My prettiest red of all is Vino Rosso aka Vino Rossi, which is a blending of crimson and red. The shading adds interest but is still effectively blood red. A little smaller blooms of about 4 inches, but stunning form, even in heat. No scent at all though. It's available mailorder from Wisconsin Roses; you have to email Steve and get on a waiting list. Great price, and the rose is worth the wait. Another trooper in the summer heat is Olympiad, and that is pure, unvaried red all over. Got mine from Chamblee's. Crimson Glory is a dark crimson, super fragrant and healthy if you get a good one, but usually doesn't produce decent cutting stems, and the heads always nod. Chrysler Imperial is my most consistent super-fragrant red for the heat, but it is definitely one to fade to raspberry or light red. Mr. Lincoln, also super-fragrant, has the opposite problem of aging to a dark muddy purplish-red, not my favorite. In the mild climate of Washington State where I first grew it, it was my favorite red for sure. Black Magic is pretty good, a bit more prone to blackspot, though all the ones we've discussed could use some spray protection. My absolutely most disease-resistant red is Deep Secret, which is definitely NOT great for hot summers, but I have kept it because it has several great virtues going for it. It excells in the late fall and winter here when some others are resting, it is super-blackspot resistant, has outstanding deep deep red coloring, shaded black, and has nice straight cutting stems. It is a bit smaller than some others, mine usually just 3 and a half inches in diameter, but occasionally 4". The bush is also smaller, so it doesn't take up nearly the space that Veteran's Honor, for example, does. I haven't grown Beloved, aka Cesar E. Chavez, but I've seen it around here, and it seems to do very well. It is a gorgeous red, very intense, a strong grower, slightly fragrant....See MoreCan an artificial, in-ground bog survive Texas summers?
Comments (5)Hi Bugman, With money, time, and tools no object, here is a solution. Dig out a pond about 16 inches deep, use either a plastic rigid preformed pond kit or a plastic fabric liner. Fill with either long fiber sphagnum moss, or half sphagnum plus half sand. Fill with rain water or water low in TDS (Total Dissolved Solids) like distilled water or RO (Reverse Osmosis) water. Next, build a frame over your bog and top the frame with shade cloth. Your frame could be 8 inches over the top of the bog or 8 feet. The object of the frame is to provide shade, but not get in the way of maintenance. Also, the shade cloth could be 40%, 60%, or 80% shade. Some early morning sun should be good for your plants. But it should get some shade for the blazing noon time sun. Most bog plants require nutrient poor environments. Your typical tap water might be too high in TDS and nutriets to be used. That's why I recommend rain, distilled, or ro water. But only you know how good your tap water is. I have the opposite problem here in the frozen tundra of Wisconsin. Will my ground ever become unfrozen enough for me to dig in it. Good grief, I still have 20 inches of snow in my backyard. Would you like some of my snow to melt for watering your bog :-) Tom...See MoreCut flowers that will survive the summer heat
Comments (3)My favorite is Benary giant zinnia⦠I am tempted to grow NOTHING else⦠the colors are fantastic, and theyâÂÂve got great vase life. I do pinch once, but other than that they do great on their own. I love dahlias as well for cut flowers⦠and are nice since the (here in PA) bloom season picks up when other stuff is dying down. p.s.- my Lisianthus takes FOREVER. And it will stay TINY for the longest time. As long as youâÂÂve got grow lights on them, they should show up eventually!! Here is a link that might be useful: My Garden...See MorePlants to survive drought & heat
Comments (19)The best survivor on our property was Gomphrena (Globe amaranth) "Strawberry Fields". We have received slightly over 14" of rain in 2011 and it has received no irrigation because it is 300' from the house. The gomphrena bloomed all summer long, finally dying out last week. Other really tough plants that did well all year but received some irrigation are these: four o'clocks, portulaca, Texas hummingbird sage, autumn sage, 'Laura Bush' petunia, datura, verbena bonariensis, malva sylvestris 'Zebrina' and 'Mystic Merlin', morning glories, Texas Red Star Hibiscus and Swamp Mallow (but only because the Mallow received steady irrigation). The trumpet creeper vines that received some water near the house bloomed all summer long, but the trumpet creeper and American Cross Vine that were too far from the house to irrigate hung on and survived but haven't bloomed very well. The coral honeysuckle 'Pink Lemonade' looked good until about mid-August but has gone downhill since then. I'm not sure it will survive if rain doesn't fall soon. All the pasture grasses dried and either went dormant or died. The Johnson grass, which is a horrible weed just about as annoying as bermuda grass, lasted longest and I doubt any of it is actually dead though it definitely is dormant. The bermuda grass around the house didn't die, but didn't look good even though it received some irrigation. With a lot of the trees in the woodland that have dropped their leaves and gone dormant early, we won't know until next year if they've survived. I think most of the large trees will be fine if it rains some this fall and winter, but a lot of the smaller understory trees may not make it. The hoped-for autumn rains haven't really materialized here although there's been some patchy, scattered showers here and there, so everything is in pretty bad shape. Normally we'll get 3.5 to 4" of rain in September and we've had only 0.7" this month, so everything still looks dry and pitiful and we continue to have grass fires, brush fires and wild fires. Most of our native grasses and plants in the pastures scorched, dried out and went dormant or died this summer. They received no irrigation. The toughest survivors (some of them actually greened up and began blooming after they received 1.2" of rainfall in August) included greenthread daisy, lazy daisy, liatris, goldenrod, native sunflowers and frogfruit. The frogfruit plants in the front pasture lasted all summer, until temps in the 112-115 range finally got to them in early to mid-August, but the frogfruit plants that received a slight amount of moisture in a location close to the wildlife feeding area stayed in bloom until early September. They're still green but aren't blooming. The toughest shrubs were the Burford hollies, native Possumhaw hollies, sumac and southern wax myrtles but they all received some irrigation. The trees that tolerated the drought with the least damage were the native Red Oaks, post oaks, burr oaks, pecan trees (they, along with the native persimmons, did better than anything else), desert willow and chaste tree. The native roughleaf dogwood did fine in partial shade, and not so well in full sun. Older, larger and more well-established trees showed drought stress but little damage. Younger trees stressed much earlier and some have dropped leaves and gone into dormancy early as a drought survival mechanism. Lambsquarters did great even where not irrigated as did, unforunately, the pigweed. Basil, rosemary, catnip and mint held on longer than any of the other herbs, but ultimately the heat and drought killed them. Well, with mint you never really know---we'll see if it comes back next year. In the veggie garden, the tomatoes that produced best were those planted earliest. The plants put in containers in February and carried into the garage at night produced ripe fruit beginning in late April and continuing through late June or early July. The tomato plants put into the ground in earliest April produced very well before the heat got to them in late June or early July. Any tomato plants that went into the ground later than early April didn't set and ripen much fruit before the temps got too hot for fruit set in late May. The container tomatoes that produced well were Big Boy, Better Boy, Husky Red Cherry and Big Beefsteak. The best producers from the early April plantings were Early Goliath, Cluster Goliath, Goliath, JD's Special C-Tex, Gary 'O Sena, SunGold, Ildi, Jaune Flammee', Russian Persimmon, Mountain Magic, Black Cherry and Matt's Wild Cherry. Even though I haven't watered the garden since late July, one SunGold plant has held on stubbornly and survived and is still producing fruit, albeit they are smaller than usual. Their flavor is great too. I've never been impressed with any of the heat-set type tomatoes. They are bred to set fruit in slightly higher temperatures, but their flavor always has been poor in my garden. The best heat-set type I ever grew was Merced, but it was taken off the market a few years ago. Other veggies that produced well in the heat were onions, potatoes and lettuce in the cool-season crop category, and okra, sweet corn, green beans, southern peas, cukes, watermelons, muskmelons and peppers in the warm-season category. Nothing but the okra produced much after I stopped irrigating in July but I had planted everything pretty early so got good early crops. I planted a lot of interesting tomato varieties from Brad Gates' Wild Boar Farms but they went into the ground later than the varieties listed above so didn't get a chance to set many fruit before the heat got to them. I'll try them again next year. I still have lima beans growing in a cattle trough near the barn and they are blooming and setting beans. They have received regular irrigation, and when they are through producing I will replace them with lettuce and other salad greens for winter. Hopefully the arrival of the cold front late yesterday marked the end of summer weather for us down here. Now, if only rain will fall....but none is in our 7-day forecast. We have had some cooler, milder weather in September, but hit 107 earlier this month and it was 102 degrees yesterday before the cold front finally made it this far south. I'm going to overseed the lawn with rye grass today and overseed one pasture with a deer forage mix in the hopes that I can irrigate both of them enough to get the seed to germinate and the plants to grow. We still have a lot of snake activity, with the ones I'm seeing the most lately being the Timber Rattlers and the non-venomous rough green snakes and the racers. So, with the Rattlers out and prowling around, I haven't started any garden cleanup yet. Obviously, with the extreme heat, drought and wildfires, I didn't plant a fall garden at all. I'm ready for October and ready for 2012---assuming rain falls in decent amounts in 2012. The local stores have pansies, ornamental kale, and snapdragons out in the garden centers but it is still too hot to plant them here. I always look at them and then sigh and walk away. Even if I planted any of them, the deer would get them....and I can't blame the deer because they're really hungry. I'll probably plant some amaryllis and paper white bulbs in pots indoors around early November just so I'll have something growing....See Moremommyfox
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