Alright, so thanks for all the good advice, though in the end that way didn't work out for me, as I will be out of town for the next two weeks and couldn't get things in time to get them into the ground before leaving. So I decided to make do with what I can get locally, and try to make the best out of it. There's always next year and better planning to extend or do over what I started now. So I got three apple trees between 2 and 3 years old, I think. It'll give me an opportunity to compare the different local sources. Tree 1, the cheapest one ($19) is from Home Depot, Golden Delicious (Dwarf). What was very noticable when planting is that the tree was apparently just stuck into a pot a short time ago, there were was not much on it in terms of roots at all, and the potting mix fell right off. Because of that, and the kinda screwed-up structure, I pruned that tree heavily: Golden Delicious before: and after pruning: I got a $59 Dwarf Honeycrisp tree from a local expensive-ish nursery. However, that tree is 3 if not 4 years old (can't remember now). It had a couple of fruit buds on it, most of which fell victim to my pruning. This tree was in a big pot with an extensive root system, so it must have been grown in this pot for quite some time. I had to untangle / cut lots of circling roots. The shape still isn't that great, the lower branches are at 45 degrees, but I'll keep them and see how it goes. A second, higher, scaffold was started, but it's only short spurs at this time. Honeycrisp tree before pruning I didn't prune it that heavily yet, but looking at the close-up, I think I need to prune off most of the leader (down into two-year old wood) in order to get the 2nd scaffold to grow (hopefully). Does that sound right? I'll try to train down the lower branches, though they're not very flexible anymore. Finally, I got Liberty, semi-dwarf from another nursery at $29, and one to hopefully give me a break on disease. This one is two-years old, has a well developed lower scaffold made from 3 branches. Root-wise, it was so-so. Apparently it is a vigorous grower, as last season the central leader grew more than 3, if not 4 feet. I headed it quite a bit down to start a 2nd scaffold, and I'm trying to train the 1 scaffold to grow more outwards then up (it's currently kinda curved, leaving the trunk at a good angle but then turning upwards. Should I head the side branches? If so, at what point? Liberty before pruning: That's what it currently looks like (except that I used bamboo stakes to straighten the branches): I got no experience with pruning at all, other than what I learned from the internet, so any advice is very welcome. Also, I already got bugs on the Honeycrisp, some very tiny beetles or something, all black, which are apparently munching on the just opening buds (small holes in the new leaves already). Should I do something about them? If so, what? Thanks ;)

Too bad you missed it! You know how they put a few moderns out by the road on a table to the right? The $5 own roots are right behind them in that little greenhouse by the road. It looks like it is closed to the public the way it is set up. But, its not. They dont direct you there because they would much rather have you go into the green houses ont he left to pay $20 a pot. But, their roses are worth the $20 as well! Now, its been since Sep. so maybe things have changed. But, I doubt it.

I would give it a try. My zone is probably very similar to yours. Just a few considerations. Exposure and protection from wind REALLY make a big difference in the winter. In my prior home, I had a number of broadleaved everygreens planted in semi-shaded conditions (Aucuba, camelia, etc.) along a tall wooden fence. They never burned in winter (even in aweful winters). Be sure to mulch and keep well-watered if its dry in fall and winter (but don't overdo the watering bit),and also, be sure to apply an antidessicant spray (available at your garden center). For newly planted broadleaved evergreen shrubs and trees (including Southern magnolia for example) I apply the spray in November. You shouldn't have to do this every year--but it doesn't hurt. Good luck!

AFAIK, the only pitcher plant that could use water in their pitchers are what is called Sarracenia purpurea. That's an American pitcher plant. Yours is a Nepenthes, which is an Asian pitcher plant. I think your salesperson may be mistaken in this area, but direct sunlight could easily "fry" her. That happened to my Neps last summer, and I was living in PA at the time. I wouldn't put water in the pitchers. Misting is what many Nepenthes growers do, though. It is not at all unusual for older or existing pitchers to dry or die out. Either their time was up or they might have been in shock, with the change of environment. Nepenthes could several weeks to adjust. With some variation (highland vs. lowland), Nepenthes naturally grow in warm, humid environments, from near the equator. Texas may be a tad too hot and dry come summer. Nepenthes also do well by window sills, in hanging baskets, which is what I do. Many people also put them in terrariums. I think your sunlight is adequate and as long as your plantis producing new pitchers, it seems to be adjusted and doing fine. When CP's lose old leaves but are producing healthy new ones, don't worry about the old ones. Always look at your new growth as an indicator of how things are going. It is not unusual for other critters to take up residence at the mouth of a pitcher plant - as long as we're not talking about spider mites or aphids. Seems like everybody using this discussion forum has Nepenthes and orchids! Below is an example of a Nep in a hanging basket: