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glchen

Heirlooms That Restaurants Use

glchen
14 years ago

There was an interesting article today in the SF Chronicle today on heirloom tomatoes. The full article is here:

http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2009/07/26/FDOS18PINU.DTL

However, at the end of the article, it gave a list of tomatoes that well known restaurants in the Bay area use:

Gayle Pirie, Foreign Cinema, San Francisco: Marvel Stripe, Cherokee and Lemon Boy for flavor, fragrance, meaty mouthfeel and looks. We pair Sungolds with our house-cured sardines, add cucumber, torn croutons and barrel-aged feta.

Mourad Lahlou, Aziza, S.F.: Cherokee Purple, Marvel Stripe and Brandywine. We serve the Brandywine as a carpaccio topped with other small tomatoes, fino basil and frozen feta. The Early Girl tomato is not an heirloom, but when Dirty Girl's Early Girl tomatoes show up, there's nothing better.

Elizabeth Binder, Bar Bambino, S.F.: San Marzanos go into our full-bodied sugo di pomodoro. Our insalate Caprese typically includes Black Krims, buffalo mozzarella, extra-virgin olive oil, freshly torn basil and crushed Sicilian sea salt.

Chris Cosentino, Incanto, S.F.: We oven-dry San Marzanos, food-mill them and fold into risotto. We grate green tomatoes, then use them to top crudos. It gives acidity as well as a fruit note.

Roland Passot, La Folie, S.F.: Cherokee Purple, Aunt Ruby and Copia. We use them in a roasted smoked tomato soup with a goat cheese-stuffed Green Zebra.

Gary Danko, Restaurant Gary Danko, S.F.: Red Brandywines have excellent flavor, balanced, with a high acid/high sugar content. Green Zebra Stripe tomatoes can brighten any salad.

Hiro Sone, Ame, S.F.; and Terra, St. Helena: Russian Black and Olympic Flame are heavy, juicy and balance acidity and sweetness, perfect for bruschetta. At Terra, we serve panzanella with local raw goat-milk feta. At Ame, we make fattoush with tomatoes, purslane, Mediterranean cucumber, toasted house-made pita and sumac.

Bruce Hill, Bix, S.F., and Picco, Larkspur: Early Girl, Black and Aunt Ruby's German Green. I serve heirloom tomatoes at Bix with house-made mozzarella, extra virgin olive oil, basil and sea salt. At Picco, it's heirlooms with black garlic-miso vinaigrette and piccolo fino basil.

Rebecca Boice, sous chef, Zuni Cafe, S.F.: Cherokee Purples are early standouts. We pair wedges with pimiento de Padron that we grill hot and fast, then hit everything with orange zest, hot pepper flakes, extra-virgin olive oil and crumbles of ricotta salata.

David Kinch, Manresa, Los Gatos: Paul Robeson, a classic black tomato with great perfume, goes into a chilled soup. Striped Oxhearts have a beautiful shape, like a human heart, and all the emotion that can elicit. I love to serve one peeled and raw, presented whole on the plate, with great olive oil and salt.

Daniel Patterson, Coi, S.F.: Brandywine, Cherokee and occasionally, when they are perfect, Green Zebras. But I have largely stopped buying heirlooms. They are too often of poor or erratic quality. In season I use Early Girls from Dirty Girl, and right now we are using cherry tomatoes. Heirlooms are meant to be eaten warm from the plant, not schlepped hither and yon, which requires them to be picked underripe.

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