My GHS is in CA zone 9. Sounds like you have enough venting. I have to use shade cloth over most of the roof except in winter to keep temps under 90. I keep starts/rooted cuttings of tender plants over winter inside a small area partitioned within my greenhouse (like a small greenhouse inside the greenhouse). In that area (4 foot square roughly) I use heat mats on a thermostat which comes on whenever air temps I have the same type roof you describe, so I made a wall vent (6 ft wide) which leans outward at the top. This is OK here because we don't get rain in summer, otherwise... You can manage a very large window vent with a single solar actuator if you apply a counterweight which balances the window across the pivot point.

So yesterday buddy comes over to look over things with the a/c system and I think we've got things nailed down properly now. The superheat for the given ambient temperature and heat loading from the indoor coil was way off (5F) vs. the 14-15F that it was supposed to be so he had to remove some of the refrigerant (I was quite surprised how little he had to remove to get the superheat up) and we even went as far as measuring the furnace's CFM flow rating using a differential manometer. I'm pushing roughly 1000CFM across a 2 ton coil so which is a tad bit on the high side but my colleauge says it's a margin of safety for the a/c to not freeze over as we have relatively little humidity in the air would means that on the cooler days we wouldn't be heat loading the coil enough which could lead to freeze up. I personally would like to try running my furnace on the lowest speed to get the 855 CFM but I'm not sure how that will affect the superheat. Presumably I would imagine that if a system is charged properly using the superheat method for fixed orifice systems that blower speed shouldn't dramatically impact the superheat values to the point where they're completely out of whack. I would guess that superheat would rise but isn't that sort of a given? I mean hotter days for example would increase loading so therefore superheat should rise no? For the record the pressure reading on the manometer with the furnace on medium low with a 3M 1500 series filter installed has a -0.44 in wg static pressure difference. With no filter the static pressure diff changes to -0.55. Humidity was still somewhat of an issue yesterday night when it was raining but it was quite cool outside. I had to drop the tstat to 21C to force start the a/c on but after just 20 minutes the house was nice and dry and less stuffy. Just for the sake of my understanding does TXV technically do any better or worse job of temperature/humidity control over a fixed orifice system IF both systems were installed properly and charged to near perfection? I have a friend that is looking to install a/c and his contractor insists on having TXV and says that fixed orifice is evil and should never be used. I find that rather extreme to make a claim like that. I've tried to do my own research online and although it's a given that TXV is the way to go I think it has a lot to do with the fact that it will better protect the compressor from liquid flooding + it's more forgiving for techs that do an incorrect charge on the system - critical charge isn't nearly as important on a TXV system vs. fixed orifice. Thanks,

Thanks Stuart. I received these seeds from a friend. They where gifted to me and I was simply amazed with them. Do not any new photo's of them to date, but will when they are more advanced. Just started some Tanzania & Somalense 'Fat Caudex'. Really hoping for good results with these. My good friend Tracy sent me some seed awhile back and they are coming up now. So excited about them. if I can ever help you with acquiring seeds, just let me know. I will try. Rick

I thought about that. Didn't know if too many different cultivars was a bad thing or not.