Look on the following web site. I believe this is bacterial spot. Symptoms: Bacterial speck is widely distributed. Symptoms may appear on any plant part. Leaves of infected plants are covered by small, dark brown, irregular patches of necrotic tissue that are surrounded by yellow halos. Disease severity is increased by leaf wetness from sprinkler irrigation, rain, or heavy dews. Control: Minimize wetting of the leaves by using drip or furrow irrigation. Copper sprays provide effective control. Joe Here is a link that might be useful: Texas Tomato disease site

I can only tell you from my own experience and hope that it relates and helps. Your Valencia is looking good and I believe will be back to normal soon. [see below] Go real easy on the feeding and when you do feed, keep the fertilizer well away from the trunk. I'd also suggest moving the soaker hose much further away from the trunk. First of all, the Meyer and Valencia may be on different rootstock and so that may explain their different condition. They may have reacted to or tolerated something very differently. I have a Redblush and Sanguinelli looking very much like yours; that is, they are just beginning to bloom and with minimal and yellow leaves. They are probably a few weeks behind yours.My Valencia looks far worse, just new "nubs" trying to push out of the green bark. It still has about a dozen yellow leaves. I hear that this massive bloom may be the initial stage of recovery after a drought and or stress. All three mentioned above endured 3-4 moves as landscape plans changed over the last two years. However, these three were in a somewhat similar decline exactly a year ago (yellow, dry looking leaves and tips) but had turned worse. I did not realize that i was over-feeding until July. I stopping the feeding and began flushing the soil with copious amounts of water regularly. This seemed to stabilize them. They have stood in a coma until a few weeks ago when again began growing (they had been regrowing the roots i had burned by over-feeding i guess). My Lisbon did a major leaf drop and leafless bloom after a transplant; that is, just blooms no new leaves. [It was in its location for 5 years so i did have to cut the roots significantly to move it.] Fast forward 10 months and its pushing lots of leaves and all systems normal. There is plenty of nutrition in my soil and i am not feeding anything until i get evidence otherwize. I believe that root damage is the cause of my woes, and in my case it was too much fertilzer, and perhaps applied too close to the trunk! I hope this helps and good luck!

Might possibly be orange rust. Contact your local office of your state universities USDA Cooperative Exgtension Service and take a sample, sealed in a plastic bag, in for ID and what you can do about it, which probably means removing the plants.

WJ You are correct, it is not a disease. I do not think leaves will revert to 'perfect' state; there are usually little pimple-like bumps left on leaves. If the oedema blisters are large & they ruptured, they will scab over, so there will be a scabby brownish spot on the leaf. Good ventilation helps, as would lower humidity - using small fan may help. After watering, pot should not sit in a saucer with water. I do not use peat/coco peat in gritty mix. I do not use any charcoal so not sure what it will do. The mix you describe sounds quite good to me. I have semps overwintering outside, and they get covered by snow. So there is lots of moisture, but they are in very gritty mix. During summer, I do not water them, they get water when it rains. I don't remember having any oedema on semps, but I see some on few leaves of jades that were outside spring to fall. We have some humid days during summer, most likely not as high as in your location. We get reasonable rains, but it doesn't last for many days in a row. Btw, do you know what is used as a root rot preventative in the mix?