Springtail Densities in My Indoor Bins

9 years ago

My indoor, plastic bins have been havens for springtails (Collembola sp.) ever since I naively inoculated the bins with local leaf litter. To my eye, the density of the springtails has been "phenomenal". Since there are those here at the vermicomposting site that have questioned my veracity with regard to other reports of large numbers of animals, (worms), I thought I should start with photo-verified facts before I wax effusive with how impressed I am with the density of springtails in my indoor bins.

First, there are two bins, and my subjective perspective was that even though the density in both bins was very high, the density in one of the bins was considerably greater than the other. An objective quantitative analysis revealed that opinon to be correct.

Here are some "random" images of the some portions of the bins showing the somewhat uniform distribution of the springtails throughout the bins.
First the "high density" bin:

and then the "lower density" bin:

Then, taking multiple (21), random samples (images) of 20mm x 20mm squares from each bin, I used Biopar's proprietary software and counted the springtails in each of the samples from each bin. Here are some images of the "human readable" intermediate steps that will help - I hope - give "you" some idea of some of the mechanics of the process.

and the next step:

The tiny white spots in the first four 20mmx20mm pictures are specular reflections from the moist surface. Also, the black and white images do not show all of the counted springtails, just those in the first pass of image processing.

After 'turning the crank', the average density in the "high density" bin was 0.56 springtails per square mm. In the "lower density" bin, it was 0.37 springtails per square mm. At the level of the surface of the 'dirt', the dimensions of the surface of the dirt in the "high density" bin was approximately 508mm by 381mm, or 193,548 square mm. Yielding a SURFACE population estimate of 108,386 springtails. In the "lower density" bin, the surface population estimate was "only" 78,884 springtails.

There are two reason why I emphasized "surface": 1) there are LOTS of springtails below the surface, and 2) from observation alone and without "doing the math", I think the subsurface density is at least twice the surface density! If that presumption is correct, AND the springtails are close to uniformly distributed throughout the "compost", (without testing, the weakest assumption), then the density of the "high density" BIN is 14,516,100 springtails! THAT'S MORE THAN 14 MILLION SPRINGTAILS in that ONE BIN!

Assuming that the density is not uniform from surface to "floor", let's cut the subsurface density in half, that's still over SEVEN MILLION springtails in that one bin!

I suspect that even with the photgraphic evidence and explanation, those that can't believe what they don't see will once again question my veracity. That's OK. (Actually it's NOT "OK", but I can 'handle' it without having a tantrum.) This post isn't an attempt to impress anyone about me. Rather it IS an attempt to:

1) Give some idea of the density of springtails in my indoor plastic bins,
2) To "impress" people - as I am impressed - with the amazing numbers of springtails that are possible in a relatively small space, and
3) provide some "proof", for those with open minds, that when I say "thousands", or in this case, MILLIONS, and I don't qualify that comment with respect to hyperbole, that I actually MEAN "thousands" or millions.

I am completely open to any and all questions regarding my methods, calculations or anything else anyone would like to ask. What I'd REALLY like is some discussion on the "amazingness" of this. I knew the springtails numbers were high, but this is truly astounding, and I can SEE THEM!

Paul

Sort by:Oldest

Comments (6)

renais1
9 years ago
last modified: 9 years ago
Much of my worm composting is done to get rid of lots of weeds and plant waste from gardening. I have quite a few rubbermaid containers where I load most of the container with weeds and a little paper, and then cover the top with a gallon or so of older worm bed material, loaded with the worms and other bin denizens. In some of these weed bins I will also see the kinds of densities of springtails that you show. From a distance, it might look like someone sprinkled something on the top of the bin, but a closer look reveals all the movement and the activity. My new weed bins decrease in volume pretty quickly when first started, so they get additional inputs of weeds every week or so. With each input I flip the entire bin so the old bottom material is now on top. The new weeds are put on the bottom before the flipping so they are covered with the older bin material. I do find that there are springtails often in great numbers on the bottom of the material when I flip. I don't mind at all because the bins are not in the house, and my purpose for the bins is to get rid of weeds, and make some compost; the springtails are eager workers. I on occasion have added rotting alfalfa hay to the top of some of these bins. It appears that this hay inhibits the springtails quite a bit, at least on the surface. Within a couple days of adding the hay, there are practically no springtails left.
Renais
pskvorc
Original Author
9 years ago
last modified: 9 years ago
I on occasion have added rotting alfalfa hay to the top of some of these bins. It appears that this hay inhibits the springtails quite a bit, at least on the surface. Within a couple days of adding the hay, there are practically no springtails left.

Fascinating! I wonder what there is in rotting alfalfa that inhibits/kills springtails?

I like your system. Sounds very 'practical', and I am particularly fond of things practical. I also appreciate the corroboration of the densities I am reporting. Never hurts to have a someone 'second the motion'.

Paul
Related Discussions
Heated worm bin
Q
Comments (23)
Thanks for the links--been looking for good forums and found several that weren't good for advice. I've bookmarked several. I was annoyed at my plastic jug because I couldn't get it sealed and I wanted a sealed unit to bury. Added a few drops of hydrogen peroxide to avoid any algae, bacteria, etc. and wouldn't hurt the worms if it did leak. Finally got it sealed--yea! The worms do love it; I find them all gathered around it each time I look to see how things are going. I'm using an old laundry basket, lined with cardboard, and put inside a kitchen cabinet now. They were in a plastic tote until now. I had no holes drilled in the plastic tote, but monitered the moisture carefully. I drilled a few small holes in the bottom of the basket and put it on an old tote lid. Now things get buried directly into the bin. I started out with bedding of cardboard, newspaper, and mostly oak leaves--add a few handfulls of sand, and soil. Worms seemed to be happy from day one--never tried to escape. Been almost 3 months now--and no where near ready to harvest yet. Maybe I haven't kept them warm enough yet? Then again I did notice lots of babies in pockets after reading through some other posts. Started out with 1 lb. of redworms, and hoping for an increase. Only me, but I eat a lot of veggies, and make most stuff from scratch. Don't add dairy, meat, or oil. Sometimes if I get too much I put it in the blender--really gotta watch the blender; can burn up a motor quick. I need more worms! LOL! Hence why I was looking for heat in winter.
...See More
planning design for new indoor bin
Q
Comments (5)
Scarlet, Given your constraints, here's my first suggestion for an indoor worm bin system. The second one will be a flow-through, but it sounds like you're already considering that. * Two 10 gal. storage totes (just under 2 sq. ft. each) If you do not accumulate more than 6-7" of vermicompost (VC), these should be of manageable weight. Drain holes are unnecessary (more on this later), but a few 1/2" vent holes just under the rim will be needed. You can stack the 2 bins and cover with a cotton table cloth. It can double as a light "table" that will be a bit over 2 ft. high or you could hide them under a table or counter. * 1 lb. E. fetida (red wigglers) in each bin. Once the bin ecosystem is well established (takes ~1 month), each pound of worms should easily be able to process 3 lb. of kitchen scraps per week. The two squirms of worms can handle your 5 lb./week of scraps. * Prepare each bin with cardboard and egg cartons soaked for 24 hrs. Gently wring and tear by hand. Fill bins 3/4 full. Add a handful of "clean" (relatively critter free) VC to each bin. This will provide a starter colony of microbes for the ecosystem. If you don't have access to VC, then you'll have to wait for the worms to arrive. Try to find a worm seller that will include some of the VC the worms were raise in. Add a couple of handfuls of kitchen scraps that have been frozen for 2-3 days and let the bin sit for a week before introducing the worms. * Freeze scraps for a few days to prevent fruit flies. Use (and re-use) 3 or 4 one gallon zip lock freezer bags (the ones with a zipper pull...Hefty brand?) in rotation. Once bag #1 (I mark mine with a Sharpie pen) is filled, place in freezer and put #2 on/under the kitchen counter. A few days later #1 can be thawed and fed to the worms. Rinse or wipe the bag and re-use. You should start freezing scraps weeks before the worms arrive. * Mentally divide each bin into two feeding areas. Use the Sharpie again and number (on the rim or side) the areas 1 to 4. A gallon bag of scraps weighs 1-2 lb. depending on the type of scraps (bag of rotten tomatoes weighs more than bag of bean sprouts). Feed in order: area 1, 3, 2, 4 -- basically alternate halves in alternate bins. * Feed less at the beginning since the microbial population will still be growing. Slowly ramp up the amount of food. Bury the thawed scraps under the damp bedding. Add additional dry bedding on top to control excess moisture from the scraps. The material will subside fairly quickly once the worms start processing it, so you'll need to add new bedding anyways. * To check for excess moisture, tilt the bin slightly by wedging something under one side. Use a cardboard sheet and shove aside the material on the lower side of the bin so you can see the bottom of the bin. If liquid pools there after a few minutes, the bin is too wet. Either add dry bedding to soak up the moisture or use a sponge or turkey baster to remove the liquid. * Once there is 4-5" worth of dirt-like VC in a bin, harvest half of the bin. I suggest using a 1/4" screen as a sieve. Most of the worms and larger material should stay above the screen. Throw those back into the other half of the bin. Add new bedding to the harvested half of the bin and put scraps there. The worms will migrate to the new material. Harvest the areas in the same sequence as you feed. If you do this regularly, there will always be a safe zone for the worms in each bin and you can keep the weight of the bin to a manageable level. * Baby worms and cocoons will fall through a 1/4" screen, so you'll need to let the harvested VC sit in a dark, moist box with good ventilation for a few weeks to give them time to hatch. You can catch & remove the hatchlings by placing a melon rind as bait. The main concern about indoor bins is flying critters, primarily fruit flies and fungus gnats. Freezing scraps should prevent the fruit fly problem. I'm not sure how to prevent a fungus gnat issue. Hopefully you just won't get them. Using paper-based bedding instead of old leaves or manure will help avoid too many of the creeping critters (centipedes, pill bugs, slugs, etc.). I don't think you can avoid things like springtails & mites. Andrew
...See More
Protein in a worm bin
Q
Comments (36)
To return to the the "delayed decomp of moldy bread" thing: ** (If you'd prefer to skip to the Readers Digest-like summation paragraph at the end, feel free to do so under advisement) The primary reason delayed decomp of moldy bread happens some/most of the time is also a good indicator of the overall "health" of your bin. It also is a pretty good verification of what worms really eat most of the time. Most of the time they eat whatever materials are broken down enough to be consumed by a creature with a really small mouth, no teeth, no arms or hands, nor utensils. Usually that happens to be the biology in the bin that is eating (breaking down) stuff not breaking down....like tbone steak or unmoldy bread (mold BEING the biology eating the bread) So, if the worms have decimated the biology populations of the bin because of a lack of other good edibles to a point where the moldy bread will lie there being attacked by only a tiny army of the scared silly into appetite-inhibiting but lucky, uneaten biology lying low to avoid the hungry worms, the bread will take longer to achieve complete moldiness, hence edibility by the wormies. On the other hand, if you, the gatekeeper of RockHard Cafe, has a menu of worm-worthy entrees not dependent upon little pre-processors, those little micro-critters will attack that bread with vigor and unafraid of being eaten by the wormies who are busy with the melon, or stuff pureed by you, or anything else that they happen upon while out for a wriggle. When wide and varied menu selections are provided all the creatures dining have tough choices on what to chow down on. He who hesitates is both lost and not causing that bread to totally mold enough to take the wormies minds off all the other stuff they're busy with. **For those who skipped down to the meat of the matter: It's a food cycle, and Garbage In Garbage Out applicable, and generally speaking, the worms don't eat the food...they eat what's eating Gilberts' Grape. OR, worm-worthy food deliverers like you will cause much different bin conditions and eater populace than chunkers of stuff not ready for worms like everyone else except you who will then turn their wormies on their former allies in food processing, cannibalize them thus creating a vicious spiral of complaints to this forum about unsatisfactory results with bins. I await the ensuing uproar with no small amount of trepidation, if not downright dread. chuckiebtoo Moderation, Patience, Diversity, Obedience to Mother Nature BTW, if you continue the food chain cycle all the way to the top....or us, as we like to think...unless we find ourselves shark or bear fodder, that chain has us baiting a hook with a worm, catching a fish, and either eating it or baiting a bear trap or shark hook. BTW2: I think maybe that whole chalkboard mathematical equation you've seen in B&W photos with Einstein standing there looking frazzled is saying the same thing. ...
...See More
Encouraging Population Growth in the Bin
Q
Comments (60)
What would you have done about the heat if you had been at home? I feel like any condition where you have to be standing over the bin all the time to correct it, is probably not sustainable over the long term. If you really can't have the bin indoors, what about an outdoor bin or box that's outdoors, in shade with no "floor," and part buried in the earth? That would have some thermal inertia at least, the worms could seek cooler layers nearer the ground if they got too hot.
...See More
chuckiebtoo
9 years ago
last modified: 9 years ago
Paul, you do have a plethora of springtails. i've never seen that many in a bin.

The one steadfast rule I've always followed is to not introduce stuff into an indoor bin that may be "contaminated". That also applies to all my other bins as well because dealing with varmints is just a pain.

Any stuff I put in there of suspicious properties is always frozen first. Matter of fact, almost everything I put in bins is frozen first. Even if it contains no "aliens", freezing accelerates decomposition.

Also, having an excuse for a garage fridge/freezer allows opportunities for ample cold beer storage.

Chuckiebtoo
mendopete
9 years ago
last modified: 9 years ago
Wow Paul, I am amazed. Looks like you have a springtail composting bin!
I have never seen a springtail in my outdoor bins. Maybe some are there. Very interesting. Were the first 2 random shots done with zoom, or is that what it looks like to the naked eye?
barbararose21101
9 years ago
last modified: 9 years ago
Please tell me whether you are pleased with this population of springtails. Are we assuming that lots of springtails is an expression of a bin on the wet side of moist ?

After I read that post a little mantra hummed in my mind: whither, thither and hither -- where the springtails go, so go the wigglers.

IF you have any mixed feelings about the plethora, maybe keep half the bin a little drier ?
pskvorc
Original Author
9 years ago
last modified: 9 years ago
In order of appearance...

chuckiebtoo - Your recommendation of freezing is well-taken, but these leaves were bagged and outdoors throughout the preceding winter, and I found the bags frozen hard long after the last snow was gone. Some critters, especially those adapted to arctic climes, can tolerate temperatures well below freezing.

mendopete - Not "zoomed". In fact, it's even more "impressive" to my naked eye because they are jumping all over the place. Plus, when I turn a spatula-full of material over, the subsurface is practically solid white!

barbararose - All I have READ left (past tense) me unconcerned about the density of the springtails in my bins. Now, doubts are beginning to creep in about just how "benign" a density of this level is with respect to growing Eisenia fetida. Others have mentioned that springtails will 'compete' with worms for food. While I have no doubt that at some level that is "true", I have a feeling that they also "assist" worms by "attacking" some foodstuffs and thereby making it available to worms before it otherwise might have been. I emphasize that that is just speculation on my part.

As for "wet"... Sorta. Before I went on my 'summer vacation', I was concerned about my bins drying up while I was gone, so I intentionally over-watered them. When I came back, I found them still over-watered. I haven't added a drop over the course of the summer, and they are still "too wet" in my opinion. I have sworn off (and AT) the use of shredded news print in MY indoor bins, but I have added dry coffee grounds and other "dry stuff" over the course of the summer. The bins have dried a little. They are still wetter than I would like.

I've lost considerable - but not all - interest in my plastic indoor bins since my success with the larger outdoor one. At this point, the indoor ones are more for observation and experimentation than anything else. Therefore, I am willing to 'let things ride' for a while and see where this all leads, Both bins are showing substantial production of worms. LOTS of young red wigglers, and lots of egg capsules, so it doesn't appear that the springtails are causing any problems, BUT, the production COULD be response to "stress", and a worm population crash could be in the offing. Time will tell.

Paul

Springtail Densities in My Indoor Bins

Comments (6)

renais1

pskvorc
Original Author

Related Discussions

chuckiebtoo

mendopete

barbararose21101

pskvorc
Original Author

COMPANY

BUSINESS SERVICES

GET HELP

CONNECT WITH US

Springtail Densities in My Indoor Bins

Comments (6)

renais1

pskvorcOriginal Author

Related Discussions

chuckiebtoo

mendopete

barbararose21101

pskvorcOriginal Author

COMPANY

BUSINESS SERVICES

GET HELP

CONNECT WITH US

pskvorc
Original Author

pskvorc
Original Author