Hi & welcome to Gardenweb! Agree with the above. If this was mine, I would scoop it out and leave the root ball sitting loosely on the surface to dry more quickly, maybe even laying it on some newspaper if it's very moist. Then snip the stem below the concentration of aerial roots and sit it atop another pot with a more chunky, porous mix that is barely moist, burying the aerial roots just enough so they don't spring back up, without packing them down at all. That looks like it will leave about 4 leaves and a couple aerial roots on the original plant. See if you can get those aerial roots to make contact with the soil and stay that way. Put both in the sunniest spot you have and let them dry out. Then go very lightly with the water for the removed top part, until the roots have a chance to go throughout the pot, just moisten the surface the first few times. If/when the original part perks back up, gently knock the old soil off of its' roots and put in the chunkier mix that dries out quickly, then finally give it more water. If the soil for these types of plants does not dry quickly, they can rot. Even just after watering, having tiny air pockets throughout the pot is good so the roots can get some air as well as moisture. So avoiding fine particles like peat and sand, and actual soil is best since these small particles fill up all of those spaces, suffocating roots and harboring too much moisture.

It's likely that much of what we discuss relative to this plant will be applicable to others as well. I think the first thing I would do is inspect for insects, especially scale and spider mites. Once you determine whether or not the plant has a problem, and what the problem is if there is one, we can decide how to get the pests under control. Then, let's get the plant into the shower & wash all the dust off the leaves. Leaves are solar collectors that turn the sun's energy into food via the process of photosynthesis, so we want to eliminate dust on the leaves so they receive as much light as possible ..... but don't put the plant in direct sun just yet - the leaves might experience something called photo-oxidation, which is a fancy term for sun burn. Your plant is weak and can't afford to lose it's foliage just now because it would likely (literally) starve to death. Next on the list would be to get the plant to a very bright and warm spot - brightest and warmest w/o being in full sun is what you're looking for. At your convenience, lift the plant from the pot & inspect the roots. If the root and soil mass comes out of the pot intact, I'll give you some easy instructions insofar as how to treat the roots, and direct you to pot up a size as a temporary measure until you can do a full repot next summer. I'll help you flush the soil of accumulated salts, and suggest an appropriate fertilizer you can use to make sure the plant has the nutrients it need to grow and regain some vitality. Eventually (next summer), you'll prune the long stem back almost to the ground. The stub will back-bud profusely, and you'll soon be on your way to a healthy and attractive plant. Just a general comment - not a lecture to you: Plants, left to do what they do in a pot are doomed to a predictable decline that follows a common pattern, a pattern the cause of which a huge % of growers don't understand - easily more than 95%. Most of those who have been around GW for a while have an advantage, however, because how to maintain plants in good health over the long term is a commonly discussed topic across most of the forums. It takes specific efforts by the grower to ensure the plant doesn't follow the predictable pattern. It's sort of like the oil in your car. Even if you're completely unaware the oil needs changing regularly, not changing the oil is going to shorten engine life and cause premature problems. The same goes for neglecting a plant's root system and allowing it to be compromised by congestion and a soil that has collapsed. You can wax your car, use premium fuel, flush the radiator regularly ..... which would be akin to keeping the plant tidy, fertilizing regularly, and flushing the soil when you water, but if you neglect the engine or roots ..... You should find this link helpful. Al Here is a link that might be useful: Some interesting Scheff insight here, too ...

reider84, i hadn't checked the boards over the holidays, so this is a bit of a late response... i hope that you check back this long after your question was posted. njoasis is correct. your plant is an aglaonema. the variety name is "Silver Queen". it is a plant that was widely planted - some say over planted - in Dairy Queens, shopping malls, banks, etc. back in the 1970's, but now seems somewhat rare in the plant trade. it has been replaced with newer hybrids. the newer varieties are more tolerant to low temperatures and they branch and sprout more which means that the plant looks more full. older Silver Queens often look lanky or 'stalky' until they get cut back and the tops are rooted and replanted. BUT, what i wrote above might only apply to the plant or stem in the front of the photo and the plant or stem on the left side of the photo... i think that the plant or stem in the rear of the photo might be something special. if the leaves always look like they do in the photo, then i think that you have what is called a "sport" or genetic change. i'm guessing that one of your plants or stems has lost one of the genes that codes for the variegation pattern on the leaf. even regular Silver Queens will sometimes produce a leaf that looks a lot like this, but the rest of the leaves will be normal looking. but i've never seen a whole plant that looks like this. i should mention that i'm merely an amateur aglaonema enthusiast and am not an 'expert' or breeder. it's possible that your plant is another species or variety i'm unfamiliar with that was mistakenly potted up with two Silver Queens. if the plant is all one plant, and the darker green stem on the back is just that, a stem, then it is clearly a sport. now... i know what you're thinking... Woo Hoo! goldmine! right?! :-P well, probably not. as i said, Silver Queen was replaced for a reason. if these plants get even a shade colder than 60 degrees Fahrenheit, they suffer leaf damage. this makes them difficult to ship to stores for much of the year, and many people let their homes get fairly cool overnight in winter to save on energy costs. plus, the plant has the lanky/stalky problem. if i had to guess, it might only be of interest to (1) You... because you may have a one-of-a-kind plant which is kinda neat. (2) an aglaonema or aroid nerd like myself. and (3) general house plant collectors that hear the word "unique" and are sucked in. in my case, i need another plant like i need another hole in my head :-) even so, if later in the year, once the weather warms up, you'd be interested in trading a cutting of your plant... i have quite a few aglaonema varieties that i'd be willing to send in exchange. Silver Queen isn't the world's most amazing house plant - there are varieties with much prettier leaf and stalk colors and patterns - but i have a soft spot for it because it was one of the first plants that i learned to grow well. if nothing else, congratulations. cheers, nancy ps if you would like any more info about the history or care of your aglaonema(s), you can check out this link: Here is a link that might be useful: Success With Your Aglaonemas Indoors

really flora.. you did that without a pic? ... how??? in the alternative.. why would OP remove the pic after ID???