Crape Murder
ocdgardener
16 years ago
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debndal
16 years agolast modified: 9 years agoroselee z8b S.W. Texas
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crape murder......please stop it!!
Comments (7)NC has, or used to have, a very active and involved urban forestry 'posse '. I see that the North Carolina Urban Forest Council is (NCUFC) still going strong. If you aren't already a member, think about becoming involved. A good organization can help you in many ways. If your community has a local newspaper and/or television stations, you may be in a position to do some pubic education....IF you are a good writer and public speaker. Type 'North Carolina Crape Murder ' into Google and you'll find several Extension publications on the subject. Make it a more general 'crape murder ' search and you'll hit the jackpot. You can copy the articles and distribute them far and wide. Your local Extension people may be able to help with publications, newsletters, or even workshops. In my experience, winter pruning workshops for the public can be very popular. If you educate the public, they can help protect your community against ignorant pruning practices. If your local public works department is responsible for crapes on public property....get those articles to the people in charge, and the mayor. Are you an interested citizen or in the business? The tree in your post has been permanently ruined. It will never have the beautiful structure it was meant to....See MoreCrape Myrtle Help
Comments (6)Hmmmm. Are you saying that the nursery has already topped the trees? That sort of pruning is not 'fixable', but perhaps that's not what they did. Can you let us see a picture of one of the victims? I don't like the words: "cut back" when it comes to crapemyrtles, I have to admit. Are you ordering these plants sight unseen? I feel very strongly that crapemyrtles should never be purchased that way. So much of their beauty, in my opinion, is created by a unique structure....what I call 'good bones'. You should hand pick the ones you think will grow up to be beauties. They should be a structural showpiece in the winter, too. Crapemyrtles do not need to be pruned at all. Removing their seed pods is a waste of time as the new growth will grow around the flower stems come spring. The pods and flower stems will simply fall off. Some simple detail pruning (crossing branches, inward growing branches, and similar) should be done only to enhance the physical beauty of this tree. What kind(s) are you ordering?...See MoreDealing with the fallout from 'Crape Murder'
Comments (21)Hey Txmom, I will certainly be willing to look at pictures and see if they allow me to tell you more, but, with what you have already told us, I think I have a pretty good idea of what you are working with. You have three basic choices (or four if you add "do nothing"). The best outcome for the existing crape myrtles would likely result if you waited until late-winter/early-spring next year and cut the entire crape myrtle down to ground level. When you do that, you'll get tons of root suckers popping up mostly right around the stumps. You will need to select the ones you want to keep (that will become the new trunks) and remove the others. This process will be quite a bit of work, because you'll need to remove the extra suckers on a regular basis for at least a few years. After the new trunks start growing to a decent size, you'll need to maintain their height with reduction/drop-crotch pruning. Another possible factor with this method is that many cultivars will produce very floppy new growth and you may have to stake/tie the trunks until they get sufficient caliper to stand on their own. Another solution, which would probably be less work for you both in the short and long run, is to kill the old crape myrtles and replace them with smaller types. If you decide to go with this method, we can discuss the best way to do it. You won't have to worry about all that sucker removal or the long-term continual pruning to try to keep the crapes in check. A third solution, which is probably my least favorite is to try to reduce the number of shoots coming from around the cut on each topped trunk. Eventually, you might get a decent look by doing this and letting time take its course, but the trees wouldn't really look all that good for at least a few years. Also, you'll have the work of continually keeping the new shoots thinned out for a while, possibly having to stake/tie some of the shoots, and having to figure out a way to keep them trimmed to an acceptable size even though they will already be pretty large. I'd vote for doing one of the first two options, but post some pictures if you have them and let us know what option appeals most to you....See MoreLast Friday - Murder at NASA - beyond mere attempted
Comments (21)Lavender or purple will likely be the color of the next CM we put in our yard. I prefer purple, mainly because it should give a more appealing contrast to the blue of the vitex we envision planting next to it. I can understand the interest in pruning to maintain a certain "fill" of foliage and bloom in a certain space. What I don't understand is how that awful, whacked look can be tolerated, even for a moment, while awaiting the return of the next season's growth in that desired look. Not meaning to sound all self-righteous here...it's just my gardening style, to use plants that are suited for the space available to them, instead of filling a space with a plant that has to be pruned to hideous (my opinion) to keep the plant within bounds, even if the view of the whacked look is only temporary. If I put, say, a CM variety with a mature size of 15 feet in a 5-foot space, that would just be too much work for me to keep the plant in bounds every year. I would want a plant with a mature size that fills the 5-foot space. I'm not a crape myrtle expert. But experience and intuition tell me (correctly I believe) a couple of things about the "radical annual pruning" of CMs (just my alternative term for the "murder"): (1) It weakens the plants overall; (2) It possibly deprives the plants and visiting wildlife of mutually beneficial, balanced and natural interaction, and (3) While enabling more concentrated bloom and dense top-growth, it raises risk of losing what might be preferred (a more appealing resultant appearance, that is) to storms or pests because of the naturally weaker new growth. My memory is always "dumping," but I believe I remember seeing some summer storm damage to CMs that were whacked the year before. So all the CMs had for foliage and bloom were the short, weak new branches all clustered together. Maybe I just saw some photos of that damage. Anyway, the damage made them look as if they had never leafed-out and bloomed at all, because all the new growth was torn and bent down, if not torn completely off. Those images, more than any others, swayed me away forever from the "murder" manner of pruning....See Morelou_spicewood_tx
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