Some considerations: 1) seeds that were planted in the hoophouse exhibit more hardiness to hoophouse conditions than those that were transplanted. That means resistance to both cold and heat. I assume that having roots in very warm soil is a source of hardiness for little plants. 2) I have 11 carboys (which I mostly use for winemaking) and 6 6-gallons buckets in there, full of water, 91 gallons of thermal ballast total, and I also have an inner plastic layer. Still, I only get 4F difference when the wind blows. When the wind does not blow, it is more like 10F. 3) Another 10F or so can be had by placing a milk jug, bottom removed, on the seedling, and sealing all around with mulch. That would be a third layer. A bit of mulch inside the seal will provide plenty CO2, Best done if you have drip in there. Probably it is a matter of having the seedling lying low in mulch, and a small hoophouse (the jug) with low surface, and also stopping any small draft from really touching the plant 4) some seedlings are better than others in the hoophouse. Melons are best, toms are a bit delicate. They don't really like hot. 5) if your temps are warmer than 65F, sunny, better open one side, or no seedling will make it.

Hardening off is best - but because our southern temps are a bit different than most folks, I'd say, depends on the inside and outside temperatures you are experiencing. Normally, when I start seeds inside, the outside temps are falling into the low "50's" - but recently I started some for our fall/wintering/spring types - and outside temps were still in the 70's. Thus, when the little seedlings were barely 1 to 2 inches tall, I decided to plant them out in a shady area, and then transplant to a sunnier location when they had grown a bit. Worked out well. Hardening off in our climate is a bit different than in other parts of the country. You can usually determine what is right for the seedlings by noting at what temperatures they like to germinate and grow at in their early stages. Most seed packets will give this information on the back of the envelope. Just my 2 c's. Bejay

Thanks very much for the link. I did a lot of searching about hardening off but that article is the best I've seen. This is the 5th day the seedlings are out and they are looking exceptionally healthy. It may have been the weather conditions this week helped the process. I'm going to try to plan for more time next year to be on the safe side.

ester talks of keeping hosta cool.. their heat intolerance... the whole issue with morning sun versus afternoon sun.. is the heat.. hot hosta tissue in pm sun.. needs more water... so water them more .. as noted.. hosta are only shade TOLERANT .... they grow faster .. multiply faster and get bigger in full sun.. given the needed water.. that is how they are field grown .. the only problem is that they can look real ugly by august... you are better off growing them in full sun to get a big clump to move to more shade... rather than taking the same small plant.. and planting it in deep shade and hoping it gets big ... most hosta.. given the requisite water.. will do just fine in 2 to 4 hours of sun.. and those that dont.. you can trade out to a shadier part of the garden.. down the line.. frankly me think you protest too much about 2 hours of sun ... find something else to worry about ... heck.. throw them on the driveway.. they will be fine... ken