Cut below the squishy part of the base with a sharp sterile knife(hold knife blade in gas flame to sterilize). Then dust the cut end lightly with cinnamon. New growths should appear within a month. As for the top end, do the same, and when it appears to be dry, try rooting in in a warm environment in a standard houseplant mix or perlite. I've even managed to root them in water.

Yea i didn't water it for that long because the dirt was still moist from the store cause the moist reader was reading in the middle for days. And yea the pot is a bit big for it.. so what i did before i water it about 15min ago is put it in another smaller pot than i gave it water till it drain out of the bottom than i put it were there is more light. couldn't find a smaller pot before when i needed it but today i found one in the corner lol Here's a pic in the smaller pot than i have a ball thing on the side to make it stay were its at cause its a bit top heavy even tho i have it in the dirt a good bit down. I guess its wait and see if it makes it... How long will it stay wet with this new dirt which is prevent over and under watering, And i also have perlite in it 50/50 could be 40/50 but its close. Are those moister monitors accurate? Like when it goes down to dry is it time to water it again? These dragon trees are really picky about water than my other plants they usely suck the water up in a few days and then the dirt is dry. Hopefully the dirt drys out good with this dirt and perlite. I do notice as soon as i dump water in the dirt it went right down instead of siting on the top for a few secs. So i guess it has good drainage.

They do look like they're getting too much water, or are in poorly draining soil. Also moving it into a low light area will cause loss of leaves. So, same as what Ricky said.

I can relate to that. Please know that any resource that prescribes a schedule to water your plant is not worth taking seriously because it's impossible to predict how often a plant will need water. A Dracaena marginata can be a tiny thing that is just a few inches tall, or a much older entity that is taller than a person. The bigger plant will use a lot more water. Throughout the year, the usage could vary. Plants don't take a drink periodically like humans, the roots are constantly at work to obtain moisture and deliver it to foliage, so some moisture must be present at all times. Factors like temperature, humidity, air movement, amount of light, size of plant, size of root mass, size of pot, type of soil, type of pot, and vigorousness of a particular plants' metabolism all play a role in the speed at which the plant is using moisture, and the speed at which the soil is drying. "Overwatering" is under a hyped-up emphasis lately. This occurs when moist soil has insufficient oxygen in it. Roots need moisture and oxygen at the same time to function, and to not suffocate and rot. There are ways to ameliorate the risk to virtually none. Because I have so many pots, I can't give specialized care to each one or check them before adding more water. I just water all often enough so that there is never a moment when the soil has no moisture. I haven't had a plant die of rotting roots ("overwatering") since I quit using potting soil with peat in it, and many plants have been moved from plastic pots to clay pots. Clay pots allow oxygen to penetrate the entire surface of the soil, not just the top, so plants can enjoy consistently moist soil without having the roots rot. At this time of year, all of my pots are outside, where it's 95°, so they need water about every-other day. If I waited 2 weeks, most of the plants would be dead. But when they are inside over winter in cooler temps and a lot less sun, some plants only need more water after about a month. In addition, when repotting, don't pack the soil and water gently the first few times until the particles lock in place so the soil doesn't compact. The little air spaces will further eliminate the risk of rotting roots.