dragon tree help and also a big Dracaena
Gordesky Mco
8 years ago
last modified: 8 years ago
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Gordesky Mco
8 years agoRelated Discussions
Dracaena marginata (Dragon Palm)
Comments (14)I would try to put it near that window. Mine is in a N.N.W facing window in a hallway. It is of course right up against it. I just put it there and I am experimenting to see if it will be okay there. It probably won't so if I see signs of light deficiency I'll put it right back where I had it. The problem with your fluorescent lights is that they 1) aren't bright enough and 2) even if they were, they don't have the proper nutrients to keep a large growing plant healthy. My Chamaedorea Elegans is about 10 feet from a NNW facing window and it loves it's location. It's under my living room lamp. But of course that's all the light a Parlor Palm needs because it is native to areas in Central America where it hardly gets light. As long as a shadow forms, a parlor palm is happy with it's lighting. This isn't so with a Dracaena Marginata as these plants love high light locations (and especially full sunlight) ***ONE CRUCIAL DETAIL*** If your Dragon Tree really has been there for 4 years, move it to the window for an hour a day for about 3 days, then after that for 3 more, increase it to 2 hours. Then 3, then 4 5 + 6 and then over the course of a month, you can just leave it there and it will be fine. These plants love drought and are tough to kill. If you cut them down, they will grow back which makes them perfect indoor plants for life. Just like Sumac here in the north (although after a few years of lack of dormancy for a sumac, they may weaken and die). I hope I can be of great help. Let me know how it goes....See MoreDragon tree help
Comments (1)That's an especially nice one, IMO. I have every love possible for the single-stem entity, but the multi-tip, full type is great when it looks that good. You're right, Dracaenas are sensitive to tap water chemicals. Rain water, distilled, or the condensate from a dehumidifier would be great. If that's a clay pot, I'd probably trim the roots so it would fit back in this pot. It still looks proportionate, that's plenty of room for roots for a tree that size, and your tree will appreciate the way the clay breathes/dries out more quickly than plastic. It's normal for the lowest leaves to be discarded on these, the goal is to try to keep it so new ones grow in much more quickly, and that the tips don't go brown on the good leaves long before they turn yellow and shed. Getting away from tap water, at least when it's warm enough outside to catch rain water, has helped my trees in that way a lot....See MoreHelp with Dragon Tree!
Comments (5)Agreed, Dracaena fragrans, also sensitive to tap water chemicals. Repotting is a great way to help combat that, by getting rid of the old soil. You can also catch some rain water, use distilled, or the condensate from a dehumidifier or A/C. Keeping it soggy doesn't allow the roots to breathe. When it has dried significantly, so the whole thing is much more lightweight, water it gently but thoroughly, so water runs out of the holes in the bottom (and is not trapped in a drain saucer.) You can do that at a sink or outside. When it's finished dripping, sitting it back on the saucer is fine. Then repeat the process. There are many discussions about Dracaena here, besides amount of light, they are very much alike in their water and soil preferences. That's a really nice looking plant, BTW! It obviously loves that wonderful spot by the window. Keeping the yellow/brown parts trimmed off helps keep it looking great too, IMO. Glad you took a pic of them though, for this discussion....See MoreHelp..Dragon's Eye Pine..never planted tree
Comments (10)If you google, you will find dozens of sites with rather specific information, all providing more or less the same information. And if you understand the reasons behind some of these instructions you can determine that they are not frivolous suggestions but have some sound horticultural basis behind them. I hate to state anything in absolute terms - everything has a context that may require some modifications - but the following are factors that will encourage rapid establishment of your new tree and increase its long term survivability. Avoid amending the planting hole. Studies have shown that planting in your indigenous soil and backfilling with the same is preferred. Altering the soil in the planting hole can lead to soil interface issues affecting drainage. If your soil is heavy clay, plant high and mound up to the edge of the root ball with your own soil or an organic mulch. A wide and somewhat shallow planting hole is recommended. The width (and 2-3 times the diameter of the rootball is standard) encourages the outward spread of the root system. Many folks are of the impression that all tree roots go down deeply into the soil, therefore they need to dig a deep hole. While trees will put down deeper anchor roots, the bulk of the root system will eventually be located just under the soil surface. And since many containerized and B&B trees have minimal or congested root systems on planting, they need that freedom to expand. Digging too deep a planting hole often results in settling and your tree will become too deep, a sure-fire way to an early demise. IME, watering of newly planted trees and shrubs is very misunderstood. You want to water in well when first planted, priamrily to remove any air pockets in the planting hole, but also to equalize the moisture level of the rootball and the surrounding soil. Make sure the rootball is adequately moistened before planting - it is pretty hard to rewet a dry rootball once it's in the ground. And you will need to keep the planting area evenly moist (but not wet) for 6-8 weeks. Even in winter this may require periodic watering if your weather is dry. Mulching lightly over the rootball (but keep away from the trunk) will help conserve soil moisture and reduce weeds that may compete. I've seen more new trees die over winter because the owner assumed periodic rainfall was adequate. Regular deep watering is also required through the first couple of growing seasons as well. It is only after this period of time of establishment that the tree will be more or less self-sufficient water-wise, except for periods of extended drought. Avoid fertilizing when planting. The activity of planting and related disturbance stresses a plant and you want to avoid fertilizing a stressed plant. Supplemental fertilizer may be applied later at the beginning of the growing season or next fall when it is most efficiently metabolized, but only if soil tests first indicate fertilizer is necessary. Trees generally require very little in the way of supplemental fertilization. Here is a link that might be useful: basic tree planting instructions...See Morelaticauda
8 years agoGordesky Mco
8 years agolaticauda
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8 years agoGordesky Mco
8 years agoGordesky Mco
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8 years agoGordesky Mco
8 years agoGordesky Mco
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agoGordesky Mco
8 years agoGordesky Mco
8 years agoGordesky Mco
8 years agoGordesky Mco
8 years agoGordesky Mco
8 years agoGordesky Mco
8 years agoGordesky Mco
8 years ago
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