Getting real late in the year to plant... other than that you seem to have the basics. Many would advise never to add peat moss, thou others do.

No peat moss, lots of gravel and gritty soil (more so than anything else). Don't double the width, it's pointless, just take it out somewhat. Make sure it's in full sun (or the fullest you'll have in spring and summer) and away from any flood potential - higher is better. Just sit the tree in the hole (no deeper when filled than the present line of soil in relation to the trunk) - no bag of course - and proceed to fill in all around the roots, leaving no gaps at all, so do it relatively slowly in small batches, til you've reached the top. Do NOT press, step or anything else on top when finished. Water very well once. Leave it alone. It'll do best if not fussed with or watered any more than nature will.

If you google, you will find dozens of sites with rather specific information, all providing more or less the same information. And if you understand the reasons behind some of these instructions you can determine that they are not frivolous suggestions but have some sound horticultural basis behind them. I hate to state anything in absolute terms - everything has a context that may require some modifications - but the following are factors that will encourage rapid establishment of your new tree and increase its long term survivability.

Avoid amending the planting hole. Studies have shown that planting in your indigenous soil and backfilling with the same is preferred. Altering the soil in the planting hole can lead to soil interface issues affecting drainage. If your soil is heavy clay, plant high and mound up to the edge of the root ball with your own soil or an organic mulch.

A wide and somewhat shallow planting hole is recommended. The width (and 2-3 times the diameter of the rootball is standard) encourages the outward spread of the root system. Many folks are of the impression that all tree roots go down deeply into the soil, therefore they need to dig a deep hole. While trees will put down deeper anchor roots, the bulk of the root system will eventually be located just under the soil surface. And since many containerized and B&B trees have minimal or congested root systems on planting, they need that freedom to expand. Digging too deep a planting hole often results in settling and your tree will become too deep, a sure-fire way to an early demise.

IME, watering of newly planted trees and shrubs is very misunderstood. You want to water in well when first planted, priamrily to remove any air pockets in the planting hole, but also to equalize the moisture level of the rootball and the surrounding soil. Make sure the rootball is adequately moistened before planting - it is pretty hard to rewet a dry rootball once it's in the ground. And you will need to keep the planting area evenly moist (but not wet) for 6-8 weeks. Even in winter this may require periodic watering if your weather is dry. Mulching lightly over the rootball (but keep away from the trunk) will help conserve soil moisture and reduce weeds that may compete. I've seen more new trees die over winter because the owner assumed periodic rainfall was adequate. Regular deep watering is also required through the first couple of growing seasons as well. It is only after this period of time of establishment that the tree will be more or less self-sufficient water-wise, except for periods of extended drought.

Avoid fertilizing when planting. The activity of planting and related disturbance stresses a plant and you want to avoid fertilizing a stressed plant. Supplemental fertilizer may be applied later at the beginning of the growing season or next fall when it is most efficiently metabolized, but only if soil tests first indicate fertilizer is necessary. Trees generally require very little in the way of supplemental fertilization.

Here is a link that might be useful: basic tree planting instructions

The last part of this post from an earlier thread could help you.

Dave
Hole dug 12-18 wider than ball. Fill with water and let it soak in the night before.
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Measure ball thickness to determind how deep th hole should be.
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You want to crown root ball 2 inches so dig hole depth accordingly to achieve this as shown in photo.
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Remove twine or wire basket. If root bound seperate root mass. Some trimming may be necessary.
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l
Lightly pack in soil. Use no amendments and mulch to retain moisture. Trickle water over night for thorough soaking. Depending on plant you might have to stake it.
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Hi - my instructions were specific to pine trees, which do need different conditions even to other conifers, and it's important to stress that it not be planted in 'potting' soil, peat or anything else that will hold water too well, which is why I stressed grit and gravel for immediate drainage. I wasn't suggesting amending, but choosing a good place, and watering first, and then afterward is not necessary for pine and could even be counterproductive. Fertilizing when planting IS a good thing, as long as you know what you're doing - i.e. at this time of year it's important to have little to no nitrogen in the mix for conifers (that would be the first of the 3 numbers on the box, jar, etc. that it comes in, and it will need it to sustain it over the winter and into the spring. My info. comes from experts in tree and pine growing, planting, shaping, etc. and may be more up to date than yours.

Thank you so much for all the advice. I am planting the tree tomorrow..(just got it late Friday) I was told the Dragon's Eye Pine is not a thick pine, thus, it is not a risk to tip over as much as some other pines, since wind can pass through it. One question about the peat moss, I am guessing perhaps they gave this to me because this tree after my research prefers acidic soil. Peat moss helps out that process of being more acidic. Now, I would avoid peat moss around the trunk, I am just talking kind of far on the outside.

Also, how close can one of these be to the house? Are they a risk at all...how far should they be away?

Once again, the illustrations have been most helpful.

I would leave plently of room. At least 20 feet.. maybe more. Here is some ACS info:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Index #: 102188
Botanical Name: Pinus densiflora 'Oculus-draconis'
Plant Patent#:
Common Name: Dragon's Eye Pine
Status: Established, Registration Unknown - ' ' added.
Origin:
Form: Broad Upright or Oval
Size: Large: > 12" (30cm) per yr, > 15' (4.5m) at 10 yrs.
Color: Variegated Yellow or Gold
USDA Zone: 4 (-30 to -20 F / -34.4 to -28.9 C)
Description:
(Distinctive
characteristics.) The Dragon's Eye Pine is a fast growing tree with with golden yellow bands on long green needles.

Considered a mid-size pine, the Dragon Eye may burn from winter sun in the mid-west.

[Excerpt from Dwarf & Unusual Conifers Coming of Age ? A Guide to Mature Garden Conifers
By Sandra McLean Cutler]
needles are marked with 2 yellow stripes which are apparent as alternating yellow and green bands; irregular growth pattern; sun; 8-16"/yr, 10?H/5?W, 40-60'/UH; z4

Note: The variegation is much less evident in the North West regions of the US.
Introduction:
(Who was first to
intro and when?) 1890 from Japan. Called 'Jano-me' in Japan.
Publication:
(Date and location
of publications.) 1993 - World Checklist of Conifers by Welch and Haddow
Submitted By:
(And source info.) (Barger); Robert A. Obrizok - A Garden of Conifers: Introduction and Selection Guide; Second edition (1994); Capability's Books.
Revision Date: 10/23/2006

Lucy, I have no idea who your "experts" are but I will say that information does not jive with currently accepted horticultural conventions, the ISA or most state extension publications. Trees are trees and very few species require unique planting conditions and Asian pines would be included in this majority.

Steve, this tree's need for acidic soils is not as great as you may think and your soils may already be adequately acidic (most areas of the northeast tend to have slightly acidic soils, which is ideal). test before you go to the trouble and expense of adding peat - FWIW, peat does not make a very satisfactory mulch as it can dry out rather easily and then become very difficult to rewet. This is not a big tree (20-25' is typical) and slow growing at that. Plant far enough away from the house so that the canopy can spread freely without obstruction - 10-15' should be fine. And you will get the best effect from the variegation if in full sun, so you may want to make sure it is far enough away so the house won't cast a shadow.

That is not a 'slow growing' tree and my advice comes from horticultural professionals (not the local nursery guy, my brother-in-law or someone on line!).