I'll be contrary and say I'm against keeping that cabinet. The "old" cabinet is a hybrid from the (I'd say 50's-60's) previous renovation and the original cabinet. The bottom is original and the top has clutzy replacement doors instead of the (probably) of inset doors, the new doors were probably an attempt to blend the new cabinets with the old. The kitchen probably had one of those long wall sinks with integral drainboards in that area and the photos show the newly improved arrangement with only one small full depth base cabinet - the sink base. If you keep it, I think you can't place the dishwasher where you've drawn it - I don't think you have even 18" for a dw between where a farm sink cabinet would be and the edge of the antique base cabinet. You already know that its height from the countertop prevents you from using that counter space for anything but storage. If you keep it, you might look for new doors for it and a better companion cabinet for the other side of the sink window. The wall cabinet there looks like a replacement ir later addition anyway. Doing the return (making the little "L" on the dining room side) doesn't actually get you much - you lose more of the easy storage in the corner, the upper becomes more difficult to use and you don't really gain USEFUL counterspace because you can't use the counter in the corner. A lot of this will have different charateristics than it does now because you're much further away from that upper when you use standard size cabinets. The "L" prevents changing the dw to the left side of the sink - again I think that's necessary if you want to save the antique cabinet. In what I drew, You can have the ref where drawn free standing or with a small pantry that opens towards the bathroom. If you choose to do a range in that location, the suggestion above for an antique range is a good one - craig's list sometimes has chambers and others listed for baltimore that work and are reasonable. The issue with an unrestored antique range is SAFTEY. They sometimes have problems with gas leaks, rust or ovens that don't work right. You could also maybe do the 40" Frigidaire for something that feels more like an older style. Lots more cash than that gets you a restored antique range. Some more cash gets you something really stylish like this bert. At about that level of pricing, you can just reach a pro style range like an american or blue star. In any event, What you can't do is keep that partly old cabinet and "recounter" it deeper, put a counter in front of the window and expect to be able to reach inside it on either the uppers or the lowers (without crawling). By increasing the depth of the counter, you're increasing your distance from the upper and you won't be able to reach as well as you could before. You also won't be able to use either of the drawers because of the extended depth of the counter. I had to laugh about the wall fan (I have one). Isn't your kitchen greasy? Don't you spend time cleaning the grease off those pipes and the exhaust fan itself? Don't you find kinda gory dust on the ceiling fan - dust that clumps up because of the grease? Little flecks of greasy stuff on the walls and cabinets that are nearly impossible to clean off? Here is a link that might be useful: Frigidaire range

I have a lot of experience with planting roses in pots. Consider why you want to use pots instead of planting your roses in the ground. If you want to keep your roses in pots for a long time I would consider a larger pot (10gal+) such as: I got this one at Costco ($20) a few years back. Now, if you want to pot up your roses temporarily for the purpose of giving your roses a head start, which is what I did this past year, I would recommend using cheaper nursery pots (the big box stores don't sell these, I buy mine from Diamond Fertilizer for around $1 each). I go all out and create my own potting mix by mixing top soil with compost, Perilite, granular fertilizer, and peat moss (1 bag + 1 bag + ten cups + 3 cups + 5 cups). It's an inexpensive way to pot up several dozen roses, but is very labor intensive. I used to mix in the crystals for hydration, but I didn't see much of a difference so I cut out the expense. I have found that the Miracle Gro Rose Soil is good, but I get the same outcome using the competitions garden soil (it costs around $6 a bag). I did cover my garden beds in professional grade ground cover to stem off the weeds and prevent the roses from rooting down in the ground, as this sets them back a bit when you have to relocate the pot and tear up the roots in the process. I only have a problem with needing to raise the roses off of the ground during the extreme wet months, and even then there's no predicting what will happen. I have planted several roses on Dr. Huey directly into the ground and the average life span runs between three and five years with very good care. The ones that survive past five years are those that set off on their own roots and tend to be very hardy (Don Juan, Sonia, Mister Lincoln, Queen Elizabeth, etc.). You will have to keep to a regular spray program in order to achieve success with these roses. I've found that planting these roses close to a house tends to increase their success. Unfortunately, I've had limited success with those bagged roses once placed in the ground. They are extremely difficult to start to begin with. Once you DO get them started, they tend to be less healthy than potted roses you'd find in the garden center (my experience). Try posting pictures of your situation for better feedback. Good Luck! -Adrian.

Jeri, August 2021. What a gorgeous Tea from Viru. Thank you for posting a photo of an Old Garden Rose. How large does 'Remembering Cochet' get? Is it fragrant? Does it last well in a vase? It's really one of the most beautiful Tea roses I've ever seen in a photo. The petals appear as if they have a good degree of substance. I've noticed over the last 10 years that the larger my Tea class rosebushes get, the less often, by far) I need to water them. I would venture to say that some of this is due to the the larger the canopy, of a Tea class rosebush, the larger the rootball, I transplanted Miriam Wilkins immense clone of 'Rosette Delizy' from her property after sweet Miriam passed on, to a public rose park and it had an enormous rootball, I wish I'd measured it, I would guess it was more than 2 and 1/2 feet wide and long, It took 3 of us to lift it up out of the ground. The deeper the roots of a rosebush reach, the more water the plant can access lower down where the soil dries out more slowly. I wonder if R. gigantea is drought tolerant, because one of my smallest Tea roses, Duchesse de Brabant' is only 4' by 6 ' wide and it is very tolerant to drought. When Earthkind studies included drought tolerance 'Duchess de Brabant' was listed as going one year with no supplemental water. So I didn't water D. de B. in 2020.. She bloomed as usual, though the flowers grew smaller as the summer wore on. No leaf drop at all. I live in the Mediterranean climate in the San Francisco, California area. where even in August I've only needed to water my biggest Tea rosebushes, once during the last 6 weeks to 2 months. Susan Louise' limbed, grown as self standing bush. 15' tall by c. 10 feet wide canopy . 2 months with no supplemental water. No leaf wilting and flowering splendidly. Mrs. Dudley Cross 9' in all directions. no supplemental water for 6 weeks. . No leaf wilt, flowering wonderfully with huge rose blossoms. Souvenir de Pierre Notting. 9' by 8'. 2 months no supplemental water for 6 weeks. , normal blooms. Alliance Franco-Russe' 6' x 7' wide. No supplemental water for 5 weeks, normal blooms. Grown in half-shade, which would be a factor, the others are grown in full sunlight. Westside Road Cream Tea, one of my smaller Teas but this and Spray Cecile Brunner' a Tea-Hybrid bloom heavily with supplemental water c. once a month. Mrs. B.R. Cant. No supplemental water for 2 months and her last flush was lovely. For some reason Celine Forestier' is the notable exemption to needing supplemental water to produce a mid-summer flush. I still only water her every 2 weeks in July and August and September. Compared to my neighbor who grows H.T.s and Austins and who waters 3 times a week, I wish someone would do a formal study on which rosebushes are drought tolerant. Considering all the roses that were Found in the Gold Country, I would think that some of them would be water-wise at least if not downright drought tolerant. Any Ideas about which Lost and Found roses might be drought tolerant? Lux.

I don't think any of those art glass pendants light anything at all except themselves. Note they are lit in the photo. They usually look awful with anything but a low wattage bulb in them, high wattage burns out the color. The kitchen is probably lit mostly by the cans, the spots up in the skylights and the undercabinet lighting. To be honest, our kitchen has been lit for years by a single bulb under the old range hood, and we have managed just fine. When we remodeled the bath above the kitchen, the electrician said he was going to disconnect the kitchen recessed fixtures because the wiring was dangerous (the wiring was terrible in the entire house). Of course we never thought it would take 8 years to get to the kitchen.