Need help diagnosing diseased rose

17 years ago

I have about 50 varieties of roses that have been in for about 4 years. I garden organically and have only minor issues with black spot and mildew until this year. My William Baffin rose is very sad indeed and I am afraid I will need to take it out. If anyone can help me diagnose what is wrong, I would appreciate it. I have posted images at http://www.windsorchairresources.com/garden/rosedisease.html . There are some healthy leaves, but most old and new growth leaves curl and pucker, and eventually become papery brown. The stems look as though they may have canker but I am not sure. I am wondering if I cut the rose to the ground if it might come back healty or if I need to get it out and let the soil rest? The poor thing bloomed reliably as usual. It has been incredibly wet here this summer. Thanks for any help.

Sort by:Oldest

Comments (4)

elks
17 years ago
Were it mine, I would leave it till fall or next spring so that it can photosynthesize as much as possible, then prune it to the ground. The various fungii will be pruned away too. It will come back, perhaps stronger than now. Don't worry; it's will to survive will surprise you.
Steve
0
vtrose
Original Author
17 years ago
Thank you Steve. I will wait till fall, cut it down and scrape off the old mulch and top layer of soil, replace and give it another chance at life. It actually has some better looking growth now, but also some awful looking, strange. It is such a stellar bloomer.
0
Related Discussions
Unknown Plant Disease, Please Help Diagnose
Q
Comments (6)
Root health depends on several things, but the most important of those factors involves a triangle that can work for you or against you. Soils based on fine particles don't hold enough air at container capacity. Container capacity is the state of water retention in the soil after the soil has been completely saturated and has just stopped draining. Soggy soil kills fine roots. When air returns to the roots, the plant spends energy it shouldn't have to spend to regenerate new roots - so a cycle of death and regeneration develops that's extremely costly to the plant in terms of reserve energy. During the soggy period, roots can't effectively take up water and the nutrients they need, which are dissolved in water. Poor root function often leaves the plant unable to keep distal parts, like leaf tips and margins hydrated, so leaves often develop necrotic areas that spoil the plant's appearance. The 3 sides of that triangle I mentioned are your choice of soil, your watering habits, and your nutritional supplementation regimen. All 3 of these important considerations are firmly linked to the each other and affect the others. If you can get them right, your job suddenly becomes much easier and the rewards for your efforts greater. Your margin for error becomes significantly more forgiving as well. You should be growing in a soil that allows you to water at any time of the year, such that the entire soil mass is completely saturated and at least 15-20% of the total volume of water you used to irrigate passes out of the pot through the drain after complete saturation. Get to that point, and the rest is as easy as choosing and using an appropriate fertilizer regularly. Almost all of the problems (health, appearance, insects, disease) described in this forum are related to poor root health. A plants best protection against disease and insects is a robust metabolism, and the metabolism of a high % of plants are suppressed by poor root health. As below, So above - Healthy roots Are what we love If the link I'll leave below makes sense, I'll link you to another thread that goes into detail about container soils and water retention. Gaining an understanding of the information in that thread probably represents the largest individual step forward a container gardener can make. Without question, it transformed my growing experience. Al Here is a link that might be useful: This one first
...See More
pictures of lawn disease, can anyone help diagnose?
Q
Comments (2)
poa?? what is it? and how do I kill it? What products do people recommend?
...See More
Need Help in identifying rose disease or deficiency
Q
Comments (4)
I should have mentioned environment condition also: At present my roses remains in sun from 11am-4pm and tempretaure is around 39-40 degrees celsius (ya i know temp remain quite high in my area during summer) My roses are not in pots and I try to water them thrice in a week or when ever the surface of the soil appears to be dry. I also spray water on the leaves as summers are there. I have applied only a small amount of granular fertilizer recently that contains (humic acid 39%,ascorbic acid 20%, Amino Acids 9%,Thiamine 2%,Alpha-tocopherol 1% ,basicaly a root stimulant)
...See More
Help diagnose! Looks like disease but no yellowing. Mites or fungus?
Q
Comments (15)
Leaves crisping at the borders is usually a problem with water or something else interfering with the roots' ability to do their job. And, although you've successfully grown in containers before, this summer has been unusually dry and hot in the NE. I would take that into consideration. Some nutrient deficiencies also produce crispy borders. It's very easy to develop nutrient deficiencies when you piece together specialty niche products as you're doing, either by missing out on a nutrient or creating excesses of some nutrients which interfere with the take-up of others. I find that the best policy is to get one well-balanced formula for fruiting vegetables and stick to that unless you actually see signs of an actual deficiency that needs correcting. Personally, other than a general all-purpose formula I use for seedlings, young transplants, and leaf vegetables, I just use a tomato formula for all my fruiting veg and simply supplement with extra nitrogen for plants such as peppers that like more N. Things like pre-emptively using epsom salts and mineral formulas and micronutrient formulas are more likely to cause problems than prevent them, IMO, unless you have actual soil tests done which show deficiencies in those nutrients. I would try flushing the pots out with a LOT of water and then seeing whether things improve after that. Not chronic flushing, as that could make things boggy and lead to root rot. Just one good, serious, thorough flushing, then waiting about a week before you start feeding again and using a diluted liquid tomato formula alone when you do.
...See More
soniarosa
15 years ago
Could you send me the pics at srosaloki@gmail.com
I tried to get into them and could not. Before i say anything i want to look at your plant. You may want to solarize your plant. In the meantime a great all around drink is 32oz. of water and mix in 2 cap fulls of dyna-grow Neem Oil (the 8 oz jug caps)(all natural/organic) and a teaspoon of ivory liquid. Spray it all over eaveryday around 9am or 4pm. Pour alittle into the ground just once. this cures just about anything that ails the plant.
0
Kimmsr
15 years ago
Plant disease are soil related, so what is the soil you are growing these roses in like? When was the last soil test done and what did it show? What is the level of humus in your soil? How well does that soil drain? How well does that soil retain moisture? What kind of soil life does the soil have?
Check with your local office of the Universtiy of Vermont USDA Cooperative Extension Service about haveing a good, reliable soil test done for base nutrient and soil pH levels and then dig in with these simple soil tests,
1) Structure. From that soil sample put enough of the rest to make a 4 inch level in a clear 1 quart jar, with a tight fitting lid. Fill that jar with water and replace the lid, tightly. Shake the jar vigorously and then let it stand for 24 hours. Your soil will settle out according to soil particle size and weight. A good loam will have about 1-3/4 inch (about 45%) of sand on the bottom. about 1 inch (about 25%) of silt next, about 1 inch (25%) of clay above that, and about 1/4 inch (about 5%) of organic matter on the top.

2) Drainage. Dig a hole 1 foot square and 1 foot deep and fill that with water. After that water drains away refill the hole with more water and time how long it takes that to drain away. Anything less than 2 hours and your soil drains too quickly and needs more organic matter to slow that drainage down. Anything over 6 hours and the soil drains too slowly and needs lots of organic matter to speed it up.

3) Tilth. Take a handful of your slightly damp soil and squeeze it tightly. When the pressure is released the soil should hold together in that clump, but when poked with a finger that clump should fall apart.

4) Smell. What does your soil smell like? A pleasant, rich earthy odor? Putrid, offensive, repugnant odor? The more organic matter in your soil the more active the soil bacteria will be and the nicer you soil will smell.

5) Life. How many earthworms per shovel full were there? 5 or more indicates a pretty healthy soil. Fewer than 5, according to the Natural Resources Conservation Service, indicates a soil that is not healthy.

to see what you have and get more help in what you need to do to make a good, healthy soil that will grow strong and healthy plants.

Here is a link that might be useful: UV CES
0

Need help diagnosing diseased rose

Comments (4)

elks

vtrose
Original Author

Related Discussions

soniarosa

Kimmsr

COMPANY

BUSINESS SERVICES

GET HELP

CONNECT WITH US

Need help diagnosing diseased rose

Comments (4)

elks

vtroseOriginal Author

Related Discussions

soniarosa

Kimmsr

COMPANY

BUSINESS SERVICES

GET HELP

CONNECT WITH US

vtrose
Original Author